Question about 2005 Dodge Neon

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Determine why I have zero compression on all four cylinders

Driving down highway and car shut off. Timing belt had broke. All 16 valves were bent, head was removed, and all valves replaced. Head placed back into vehicle, timing belt replaced and put on vehicle (as well as new water pump). Tried to start vehicle just to find that there is zero compression in all 4 cylinders. What could be causing this?

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1 Answer

Have you put each cylinder at top dead center on compression
stroke & done a cylinder leak down test BEFORE ever starting
the motor,& is the timing belt still on & timed correctly?

Compression is relative to many things & not much use these
days,you got it or you don't

Posted on Nov 10, 2014

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Check the passage of the coolant if there are debris or leaks. There might be a puncture on the engine block somewhere.

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SOURCE: Will a broken timing belt and water pump require

If this is 2.0 liter duel over head cam than engine damage most likely will happen if the timing belt brakes sorry about the bad news .

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SOURCE: I think the repair shop broke my car!

Try trading standards (or equivalent) sounds to me that the "mechanics" who fit the parts should have, at least some responsibility to the damage caused. If you drove the car in then they are at fault, in my opinion. but ask yourself, would you want to be dragged through the legal system and keep your reputation if you were the garage owner? I think not.

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First thing you want to check is if the rotor on the distributor is at the #1 plug wire when the #1 cylinder is at top dead center. This will ensure the timing is set correctly.

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SOURCE: I think my timing belt slipped. It broke on the

You installed the belt with the crankshaft 180 degrees out of place. It is very unlikely that the belt slipped, unless there is internal damage in the engine.

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1 Answer

Driving down the highway at 70 mphs and car shut down still had power but engine shut off

Do a compression check on the motor. This sounds like the timing belt broke so if you lost compression on any cylinders then this is most likely the problem.

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The fault may very well be with the tester itself: The compression tester should have a check or "HOLD" valve which causes the needle on the gauge to REMAIN at it's highest recorded point. For example, my 1993 Isuzu Rodeo had a compression of 160 psi. The gauge "holds" the needle at the measurement UNTIL THE VALVE IS RELEASED-(mine had a button that needed to be pressed to release the pressure) then there will be a slight discharge of the pressure contained within, the needle should drop back to zero, and THEN you should be able to remove the tester. What I am getting at is if the pressure drops that fast, I think the "HOLD" valve on it may be defective, OR the tester is not properly sealing on the combustion chamber (stripped threads?). Might be worth buying another one for 20$ just to be sure.

A four cylinder engine, you say? Very rarely will you have ALL of your cylinders exhibit the same pressure loss symptoms. How did the other three cylinders test?

Here are the components required for a running engine to fire:
1-good spark (adequate voltage, good plugs/wires)
2-dedicated fuel supply (fuel pump with adequate pressure)
3-timing (slack in timing chain/belt?)

If the timing belt broke or maybe even jumped a tooth or two, it COULD cause DAMAGE to your engine-pistons hitting valves-if it IS what they call an "INTERFERENCE" engine.

Hope this helps.

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