Well--- I personally would have done none of what you did
If the spark plugs are changed every 3 years ,
you test other things first
The coil,crank sensor,cam sensor
We both know none of them failed, because you never
tested anything,you throw parts at it,that is not a strategy
to even finding a vehicle problem
You removed the battery cables & lost all data, needed to work on it, because you have no idea about OBD 2 Vehicles
Don't mean to be sarcastic, but you need to educate yourself &
learn how to test vehicles
What your doing, we got away with in the 1950,60 & 70's,
not so today, or since 1981 some 35 years ago, with computers
in vehicles
Assuming you have timing belt,how is that doing & how is the timing
When you come here ,we can not help you without test results,
& you apparently do not use OBD Codes or share them here
The only way to clean injectors properly,once & done, is to mail
them away for Ultra-Sonic Cleaning
To work on your own vehicles, you need to study OBD2 Systems
You need factory manuals or cd,without info, leave the hood closed
You also need a professional scan tool right from the beginning,
to look at data
You have lost all data,can't run or drive the car to get your codes
back & you changed parts that may or may not need some type
of adjustment,so your in a very bad place & need a repair shop
that won't be too happy to have your vehicle after your handy work
I had it scanned and he said it was the cam sensor. My son did the other parts. Should I drop the money on a good scanner or just take it my mechanic?
Scanning a vehicle ONLY Gives you codes I DOES NOT TELL YOU WHAT IS WRONG or to replace anything
Only component testing will tell you if the cam sensor was bad
A scanner will cost you between 3 & 10 thousand dollars Your asking about a code reader It is like you did not understand what i wrote about Tools won't help you if you do not have the knowledge & vehicle info to use them
I had it scanned and he said it was the cam sensor. My son did the other parts. Should I drop the money on a good scanner or just take it my mechanic?
Your right. Fixya can't help me. I will take it in. Thanks for your knowledge and expertise.
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SOURCE: 2000 Daewoo Lanos intermittently idles rough
check throttle body and pcv hoses and ports for blockage possible carbon build up and sticky iac valve
SOURCE: 2000 toyota 4runner pulling a random misfire in
try a new crankshaft sensor not hard to change 2 bolts and a wire
SOURCE: 2001 Chevy Malibu, 89,000 miles, 3.1 engine, won't start
CLICK HERE for the injector schematic.
CLICK HERE for the Ignition schematic.
Since the PCM uses info gatheres from the crank and cam sensors to calculate ignition - and there are no OBD codes - in all likelihood, the PCM itself is bad.
The Ignition Module, also transmits to the PCM.
It appears after all your testing - that the PCM is at fault.
It does not error report on itself (unfortunately).
The ignition timing is controlled by the Powertrain Control Module (PCM). No adjustment is necessary (distributorless ignition) or possible.
Please see the following....
The ignition timing is controlled by the Powertrain Control Module (PCM). No adjustment is necessary or possible.
The engines covered by this manual are equipped with distributorless ignitions, ignition timing is controlled by the Powertrain Control Module (PCM), as applicable. No adjustments are possible. If ignition timing is not within specification, there is a fault in the engine control system. Diagnose and repair the problem as necessary.
Ignition timing is the measurement, in degrees of crankshaft rotation, of the point at which the spark plugs fire in each of the cylinders. It is measured in degrees before or after Top Dead Center (TDC) of the compression stroke.
Ideally, the air/fuel mixture in the cylinder will be ignited by the spark plug just as the piston passes TDC of the compression stroke. If this happens, the piston will be at the beginning of the power stroke just as the compressed and ignited air/fuel mixture forces the piston down and turns the crankshaft. Because it takes a fraction of a second for the spark plug to ignite the mixture in the cylinder, the spark plug must fire a little before the piston reaches TDC. Otherwise, the mixture will not be completely ignited as the piston passes TDC and the full power of the explosion will not be used by the engine.
The timing measurement is given in degrees of crankshaft rotation before the piston reaches TDC (BTDC). If the setting for the ignition timing is 10 BTDC, each spark plug must fire 10 degrees before each piston reaches TDC. This only holds true, however, when the engine is at idle speed. The combustion process must be complete by 23° ATDC to maintain proper engine performance, fuel mileage, and low emissions.
As the engine speed increases, the pistons go faster. The spark plugs have to ignite the fuel even sooner if it is to be completely ignited when the piston reaches TDC. Spark timing changes are accomplished electronically by the engine and ignition control computers.
If the ignition is set too far advanced (BTDC), the ignition and expansion of the fuel in the cylinder will occur too soon and tend to force the piston down while it is still traveling up. This causes pre ignition or -knocking and pinging-. If the ignition spark is set too far retarded, or after TDC (ATDC), the piston will have already started on its way down when the fuel is ignited. The piston will be forced down for only a portion of its travel, resulting in poor engine performance and lack of power.
Timing marks or scales can be found on the rim of the crankshaft pulley and the timing cover. The marks on the pulley correspond to the position of the piston in the No. 1 cylinder. A stroboscopic (dynamic) timing light is hooked onto the No. 1 cylinder spark plug wire (2.2L engine only, on the 2.4L engines, special adapters are needed) . Every time the spark plug fires, the timing light flashes. By aiming the light at the timing marks while the engine is running, the exact position of the piston within the cylinder can be easily read (the flash of light makes the mark on the pulley appear to be standing still). Proper timing is indicated when the mark and scale are in specified alignment.
WARNING
When checking timing with the engine running, take care not to get the timing light wires tangled in the fan blades and/or drive belts.
The engines covered by this manual are equipped with distributorless ignitions, ignition timing is controlled by the Powertrain Control Module (PCM), as applicable. No adjustments are possible. If ignition timing is not within specification, there is a fault in the engine control system. Diagnose and repair the problem as necessary.
Thanks for using FixYa!!
SOURCE: 2004 Kia Optima no start after timing belt, crank, cam sensor replacement
did you use aftermarket crank sensor? if so that might be your problem. dealer has several different ones, by providing vin number, but there is only one after market for all optimas 01-05. try to connect thick pink wire and thick orange wire together on the ignition failure sensor. you might have the same problem as me. good luck.
SOURCE: 2001 FORD TAURUS 24 VALVE DOHC MOTOR WILL NOT START
i have a 2001 taurus 24valve dohc 3.0 engne i have a bad coil pack what steps do i need to do to change the coil pack
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