I have a water leak on the turbo side of my engine it is behind the bottom pipe that comes out of the turbo it is a 14mm bolt that goes in to the engine block right next to the engine mount i can not
I have a water leak on the turbo side of my engine it is behind the bottom pipe that comes out of the turbo it is a 14mm bolt that goes in to the engine block right next to the engine mount i can not see what it is there for i have tried to tighten it but it is tight but that is where the water looks to becoming from need to know what the bolt is for and if it can leak there isuzu trooper 3.0 2002
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Do you have a external leak or does your engine oil drop but you can not see a leak. My S60 had a leak and it was from the return pipe from the turbo to the sump.You can remove the belly plate and look from the bottom at the back off the engine.You will see the return pipe at the bottom of the turbo. If it does not leak at the there the turbo might be worn and it is blowing the oil into the intake.To check remove the intake hose and check for excess oil in the intake system.
There are two heater hoses which go from the engine to the heater core. One begins on the driver side of the engine (comes off the water pump pipe) and goes between the engine and firewall, under the vehicle, and connects to a steel pipe under the vehicle.
The other begins on the passenger side of the engine goes thru the firewall, thru the spare tire compartment and into the tunnel of the vehicle where it joins a metal pipe which located underneath the shifter assembly. Remove the shift boot and the bolts underneath which secure the shift mechanism, and move the shifter out of the way so you can see the hose-to-pipe connection in the tunnel.
I presume your Santa Fe sports the 3.5 liter V6 engine? If it's got the NUT, it's at the front & there's a nut stud. If it's got the BOLT, it's accessed from the opposite (anterior) side using a long, long extension. If you have a vehicle hoist/lift, you can easily see it. If you're on your back with the vehicle on jack stands, it's much more difficult to see the 14mm bolt between the exhaust flex pipe and heat shield of the exhaust manifold at the right hand side of the engine.
Say you're directly beneath the engine oil pan, move toward the transmission and look upward and forward between the 1:00 and 2:00 oclock positions of the engine (toward the power steering pump) - 14mm bolt
Try using a 14mm socket and extension bar.
If you do not have that then simply get a 19mm ring spanner and use it as an extension bar onto the open end of the 14mm spanner.
Once loosened you will also need a12mm ring spanner to loosen the pinch bolt that holds the alternator belt adjustment bracket.
sounds like the transmission pan or the engine sump pan, the pipes are oil cooler connections. If a bolt is missing it may leak, if the leak is red its trans fluid, brown or black its oil from the engine.
Its on the left side of the engine ( drivers side ) and near the bottom. You will have to take out the intake system ( piping filter,and what not ) To be able to see it. It has 2 bolts and one nut Im sure. ( 10 mm. and or 14mm) It will come rite out! Its pretty easy to remove on this car.....unlike the altinator! that will be a pain!
Looking at the front of the engine you should see, from left to right, the PS pump, a tensioner pulley, and the crank pulley.
Loosen the 14mm fixing bolt and the 14mm fixing nut on the tensioner pulley. On the bottom there is a 14mm adjuster bolt, loosen it to slide the pulley downward. It helps to have a swivel socket to access this bolt. The belt goes around the outside of all 3 pulleys.
The alternator belt will need to be loosened to get the PS belt on behind it. Between the Crankshaft pulley and the ac compressor pulley you will see another adjuster. Simply loosen the 14mm nut on the center of the pulley, then loosen the 14mm adjuster bolt sticking out the bottom to slacken the belt enough to slip it off.
Use the same adjusters to tension the belts once installed, and tighten down all fixing nuts/fixing bolts.
Be advised: If you broke your PS belt, you should verify your pump and tensioner pulley are in good shape and spin freely, and were not the cause of belt failure before putting on a new belt!
Hi, I am assuming you know where starter is. If you have found bottom bolt #14 metric socket which to reach you "must" use a medium length extention and go into it right above manifold pipe to reach it. I found if you take the guard off the starter 3 small hex head screws, it is much easier to get at all bolts (2). Whats strange is the lower bolt on starter mounts from the front and the "TOP" bolt #14 has to be reached from the rear of starter. You can not see the top bolt from bottom or top, but if you use your hand and reach up aroung the back of starter you can feel it! It took 2 of us one reaching up from bottom with just #14 deep well socket (no extention) on the rachet and feeling where to place it with rachet facing up, and person over top of engine reaching down helping to align socket on bolt, then use a piece of pipe or ? From the top place pipe extension on end of rachet and bolt will easily.
break loose. Good Luck it sounds hard but is fairly easy with right tools. kasheyboy77
I hav'nt done one one that vehicle but there all bolted up pretty much the same.Disconnect the negative cable on your battery, take off the intake piping and airbox, airflow meter etc that comes off the turbo and anything alse on the turbo side that going to get in your way.There should be an oil line bolted to the top core which is oil in (most of these are metal so try not to bend them too much, it should be a bolt going through a round metal washer type pipe called a "banjo"be mindfull of the copper washers either side as they act like the gaskets, dont lose them) an oil drain underneath which will be a larger metal pippe inserted into a rubber one, just loosen the hose clamp on it and try break the seal by twsting the hose around a little(can be abit of a ***** sometimes) and leave it on as it'll come out when you lift the turbo out. Depending if its water cooled aswell it'l have two lines that look the same as the top oil one(same goes for the copper washers) each side,these should be metal lines also.Remove the bolts from the downpipe to the exhaust(you may have to do this from underneath)You should beable to see the 4 main bolts that hold the turbo to the exhaust manifold(most of which have locking washers underneath) remove the bottom ones first as its easier to hold the weight of the turbo while undoing the top ones. The turbo should now be free of everything bar the oil return underneath, since you loosend the hose clamp and freed the pipe up it should lift out with abit of angle changing(depending on room) leaving the oil return pipe sticking up ( as its eaiser to get it back on the new turbo like this). Install in reverse order and dont forget the copper washers as oil/coolant will pour out if not used. I hope this helps as im not the fastest typer and took me a while lol. P,S the hardest part of this work is the room you have to work with so watch you knuckles/hands. Good luck.