Question about 2009 Maserati GranTurismo Coupe

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When I release some fluid from the master cylinder, they work fine until I hit the brakes. Could this be a bad ABS module?

Brakes are partly applied while driving. The car shifts too late into the higher gears. Does not have enough power to keep in the higher gears.

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This would be your vacuum brake canister it is faulty need to replace it the vacuum is why you're not shifting correctly

Posted on Nov 09, 2014

  • 2 more comments 
  • gene mees Nov 09, 2014

    That might be it, can you tell me where the canister is located.

  • Dan Teesdale
    Dan Teesdale Nov 09, 2014

    yes it's its right behind the master cylinder the master cylinder is bolted to it

  • Dan Teesdale
    Dan Teesdale Nov 10, 2014

    I left you an answer about the canister in the comments

  • gene mees Nov 10, 2014

    I don't what a faulty brake canister has to do with not shifting correctly. I thought it just made your breaks work better.



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1997 petrol brakes coming on by themselves rock hard pedal when happens. If left for a while can be driven again although the brake pedal becomes spongy.

I guess either the brake pedal linkage is maladjusted or perhaps not fully returning so the master cylinder fluid inlet is remaining closed. In that condition when the brake fluid expands as it grows warm under normal use it cannot escape back into the reservoir and so the brakes are applied until the system cools down.

You can check this quite simply - when next the brakes are applied momentarily release one or two brake bleed *******. If that frees the brakes it will be time to take a close look at the pedal linkage.

The condition also sometimes occurs after the replacement of the brake booster and/or brake master cylinder by folk throwing new parts at the car instead of fitting them..
There must be a clearance between the brake booster pushrod and the master cylinder piston and in the absence of service tools , careful and precise measurements must be made.

I once had a car where the brake booster failed due to fluid leaking from the master cylinder and the brakes would auto apply and not release on that car.

May 25, 2017 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

I have a 2005 Tahoe and recently the SERVICE STABILITY came on the dash board. It makes a real high pitched squealing noise while driving and it's now constantly making the noise. And getting worse. I know...

This stuff is my specialty, sounds like POSSIBLY your abs pump motor failing (the abs module mounts to the abs hydraulic pump where all the brake lines go into) i.e abs module=brain abs pump=muscle to put it simply. get the fault code(s), its going to be something like C0265 or C1214 basically "C" then 4 numbers. I can tell you EXACTLY what your problem is WITHOUT having to throw a bunch of money away by replacing unnecessary parts.
found this:
Bulletin No.: 08-05-22-002C
Date: April 07, 2009
Squeak Noise On Brake Apply (Remove Brake Fluid from Master Cylinder and Refill)
Some customers may comment on a squeak noise when the brake pedal is applied or when released. This noise is normally heard when the brake pedal is slowly applied with the engine on or off, but can occur when the brake pedal is released. The noise may be isolated to the master cylinder area.
To correct this concern, remove as much of the old brake fluid from the master cylinder as possible and refill with a new DOT 3 brake fluid, P/N 88862806 (in Canada, use P/N 88862807). Start the vehicle and fully cycle the brake pedal until the noise diminishes to allow the new fluid to enter the system. hope this helps! -Tim

Jun 06, 2014 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

No pressure on brake pedal 95 suburban 2500 4x4 7.4L

try bleeding your ABS block first, if that doesn not work could need a master or proportioning vavle. Some scan tools are capable of bleeding the ABS system on some vehicles, and some you have to bleed manually.

Apr 07, 2012 | 1995 Chevrolet Suburban

1 Answer

When driving my 2000 pontiac sunfire, I will use my brakes and sometimes they go to the floor and the car barely comes to a stop. Sometimes they work fine though. If I pump the brakes they work fine as...

try this ABS bleeding procedure:


Do not place your foot on the brake pedal through this entire procedure unless specifically instructed to do so.
This method can only be used if the ABS warning lamp is not illuminated and not DTC's are present.
  1. Remove your foot from the brake pedal.
  2. Start the engine and allow it to run for at least 10 seconds while observing the ABS warning lamp.
  3. If the ABS warning lamp turned ON and stayed ON after about 10 seconds, the bleeding procedure must be stopped and a Tech 1® must be used to diagnose the ABS function.
  4. If the ABS warning lamp turned ON for about 3 seconds, then turned OFF and stayed OFF, turn the ignition OFF .
  5. Repeat Steps 1-4 one more time.
  6. The entire brake system should now be bled by following the guide or pressure bleeding procedure.

Manual Bleeding
See Figure 3
  1. Clean the master cylinder fluid reservoir cover and surrounding area, then remove the cover.
  2. Add fluid, if necessary to obtain a proper fluid level, then put the reservoir cover back on.
  3. Prime the ABS hydraulic modulator/master cylinder assembly as follows:
    1. Attach a bleeder hose to the rearward bleeder valve, then submerge the opposite hose end in a clean container partially filled with clean brake fluid.
    2. Slowly open the rearward bleeder valve.
    3. Depress and hold the brake pedal until the fluid begins to flow.
    4. Close the valve, then release the brake pedal.
    5. Repeat Steps 3b-3d until no air bubbles are present.
    6. Relocate the bleeder hose to the forward hydraulic modulator bleeder valve, then repeat Steps 3a-3e.

  4. Once the fluid is seen to flow from both modulator bleeder valves, the ABS modulator/master cylinder assembly is sufficiently full of fluid. However, it may not be completely purged of air. At this point, move to the wheel brakes and bleed them. This ensures that the lowest points in the system are completely free of air and then the assembly can purged of any remaining air.

Fig. Fig. 3: ABS hydraulic modulator/master cylinder bleeder locations

  1. Remove the fluid reservoir cover. Fill to the correct level, if necessary, then fasten the cover.
  2. Raise and safely support the vehicle.
  3. Proceed, as outlined in the following steps, to bleed the wheel brakes in the following sequence: right rear, left rear, right front, then left front.
    1. Attach a clear plastic bleeder hose to the bleeder valve at the wheel, then submerge the opposite hose end in a clean container partially filled with clean brake fluid.
    2. Open the bleeder valve.
    3. Have an assistant slowly depress the brake pedal.
    4. Close the valve and slowly release the release the brake pedal.
    5. Wait 5 seconds.
    6. Repeat Steps 7a-7e until the brake pedal feels firm at half travel and no air bubbles are observed in the bleeder hose. To assist in freeing the entrapped air, tap lightly on the caliper or braking plate to dislodge any trapped air bubbles.

  4. Repeat Step 7 for the remaining brakes in the sequence given earlier.
  5. Carefully lower the vehicle.
  6. Remove the reservoir cover, then fill to the correct level with brake fluid and replace the cap.
  7. Bleed the ABS hydraulic modulator/master cylinder assembly as follows:
    1. Attach a clear plastic bleeder hose to the rearward bleeder valve on the modulator, then submerge the opposite hose end in a clean container partially filled with clean brake fluid.
    2. Have an assistant depress the brake pedal with moderate force.
    3. Slowly open the rearward bleeder valve and allow the fluid to flow.
    4. Close the valve, then release the brake pedal.
    5. Wait 5 seconds.
    6. Repeat Steps 11a-11e until no air bubbles are present.
    7. Relocate the bleeder hose to the forward hydraulic modulator bleeder valve, then repeat Steps 11a-11f.

  8. Carefully lower the vehicle, then check the brake fluid and add if necessary. Don't forget to put the reservoir cap back on.
  9. With the ignition turned to the RUN position, apply the brake pedal with moderate force and hold it. Note the pedal travel and feel. If the pedal feels firm and constant and the pedal travel is not excessive, start the engine. With the engine running, recheck the pedal travel. If it's still firm and constant and pedal travel is not excessive, road test the vehicle and make sure the brakes are operating properly.
  10. If the pedal feels soft or has excessive travel either initially or after the engine is started, the following procedure may be used:
    1. With the Tech 1® scan tool, Release then Apply each motor 2-3 times and cycle each solenoid 5-10 times. When finished, be sure to Apply the front and rear motors to ensure the pistons are in the upmost position. DO NOT DRIVE THE VEHICLE.
    2. If a Tech 1® scan tool is not available, remove your foot from the brake pedal, start the engine and allow it run for at least 10 seconds to initialize the ABS. DO NOT DRIVE THE VEHICLE. After 10 seconds, turn the ignition OFF . The initialization procedure most be repeated 5 times to ensure any trapped air has been dislodged.
    3. Repeat the bleeding procedure, starting with Step 1.

  11. Road test the vehicle, and make sure the brakes are operating properly.

Oct 12, 2010 | 2000 Pontiac Sunfire

2 Answers

I replaced the brake master cylinder on my 91 Lincoln Mark 7 with a non high pressure master cylinder and the rear brakes do not hold. Do I need to change the cal. on the rear also?

ANTI-LOCK BRAKE SYSTEM (and HCU-Hydraulic Control Unit)
General Information The 4-Wheel Anti-lock Brake System (ABS) is an electronically operated, all wheel brake control system. Major components include the power brake booster, master cylinder, the wheel speed sensors, and the Hydraulic Control Unit (HCU) which contains the control module, a relay, and the pressure control valves. The system is designed to ****** wheel lockup during periods of high wheel slip when braking. Retarding wheel lockup is accomplished by modulating fluid pressure to the wheel brake units. When the control module detects a variation in voltage across the wheel speed sensors, the ABS is activated. The control module opens and closes various valves located inside the HCU. These valves, called dump and isolation valves, modulate the hydraulic pressure to the wheels by applying and venting the pressure to the brake fluid circuits. Some models are equipped with a Traction Assist (TA) system. The TA system senses wheel spin upon acceleration, turns on the Hydraulic Control Unit (HCU) pump and applies fluid pressure to the appropriate rear wheel. Two additional isolation valves in the HCU will also close to permit fluid to flow only to the rear wheels. The TA system monitors TA usage to avoid overheating the rear brakes. If the system does sense brake overheating, the ABS module will inhibit TA operation until the rear brakes are permitted to cool down.
SYSTEM COMPONENTS The anti-lock brake system consists of the following components:
  • Vacuum booster and master cylinder assembly
  • Hydraulic Control Unit (HCU)
  • ABS module
  • Wheel sensors
  • Pedal travel switch
On 1992-1994 and 1995-00 a scanner is used to perform the brake bleed. But on yours, I think it's different according to the manual.
What do you mean change the cal. on the rear also? Do you mean Caliper?

Jul 26, 2010 | 1991 Lincoln Mark VII

1 Answer

Rear brakes wont bleed. Sucks fluid in when brakes applied. Has ABS.

try this. open the two bleeder screw at the rear calipers. leave it open untill the fluid drips generously. close the bleeder. try the brakes. if it works bleed it the nornal way. note: make sure you dont run out of fluid in the master cylinder

Jun 02, 2009 | 1991 Lincoln Mark VII

2 Answers

97 Grand Am brakes.

it sounds like the master cylinder but belld the freont brakes firdt then the rear this may fix your problem good luck and safe driving if ANY doubt take it to a brake spelist as your daughters life is pressous . Lindz

Mar 22, 2009 | 1998 Pontiac Grand Am

2 Answers

1994 Cavalier -replaced master cylinder-no pressure to rear brake

The most common bleeding procedure is to bleed the ABS brake furthest from the master cylinder first, then bleed the other brake that shares the same hydraulic circuit (which may be the other rear brake on a rear-wheel drive car, or the opposite front brake on a front-wheel drive car or minivan). After these have been bled, you then bleed the other brake circuit starting with the furthest brake from the master cylinder.
Air can be very difficult to remove from an ABS modulator assembly because of all the nooks and crannies inside the unit. The modulator may have eight to 10, or more, ABS/traction control solenoid valves, plus various check valves and dead-end ports. Some ABS modulators have special bleed screws to help you vent the trapped air when bleeding the system. Others do not and require the use of a scan tool to cycle the ABS solenoids while you bleed the system. 1. To bleed the isolation valves in the modulator, there are two bleeder screws. Start with the one toward the engine. Turn the ignition on and apply light pressure on the brake pedal. Open the bleeder screw and allow the fluid to flow until clear. Close the screw and do the same at the second bleeder screw. 2. Depressurize the accumulator by pumping the pedal 40 times with the key off. Wait about two minutes for the brake fluid to de-aerate, then refill the fluid reservoir with DOT 3 brake fluid. 3. Now you can bleed the boost section. This is done by applying moderate pressure on the brake pedal and turning the ignition on for three seconds, then off. Repeat this a total of 10 times. Make sure the pedal feels firm when you have finished, and give the car a road test to make sure the brakes are working properly.

Mar 15, 2009 | 1994 Chevrolet Cavalier

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