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My clutch sticks to the floor when the engine gets warm works great when engine is cold. I have replaced the master cylinder and bleed the line. What do you suggest?

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  • 179 Answers

You should look at the slave cylinder for a leak or a bad seal.

Posted on Nov 09, 2014

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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autodr
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SOURCE: Bleeding clutch slave cylinder

i think youre doing the right thing. they are very stubborn to bleed because the hyd. line goes up high across back of engine before droppiing back down to slave cyl., trapping air. could try to gravity bleed by opening bleeder at slave, cap off of master cyl, full with fluid then it may start to come out after a bit. then try your process again. or can try to bleed at connections further up the line, working your way back to bleeder. hope this helps. be patient.

Posted on Nov 15, 2008

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SOURCE: Clutch master cylinder replacement

yes

Posted on Feb 23, 2009

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SOURCE: Bleeding Clutch Cylinder with no bleeder screw

I have not tried myself but see if the link below will work for your case. It is not the same model as you have but most vehicles have the same components for the non electronic parts. http://www.2carpros.com/forum/1988-dodge-dakota--bleding-air-out-of-clutch-master-cylinder-vt248517.html

Posted on Jun 04, 2009

co7196
  • 3433 Answers

SOURCE: 1996 nissan maxima clutch sticks to floor

yes, Briong the pedal up where it belongs, then open an fill your master cylider. Then go below and open the bleeder intil the fluid runs/drips steady and free of any bubbles. Do not pump the pedal. When only fluid comes out, tighten/close the bleeder and give it a try. Good Luck. If peal dives again, replace the master cylinder.

Posted on Jul 11, 2009

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: 1999 pontiac sunfire bleeding clutch

my 1999 pontiac sunfire drivers door latch is broke can not close the door. i have it pulled shut? how much will a used latch cost, or even 3 bolts for it? all the auto stores/ jumk yards are closed for me to call

Posted on Aug 01, 2009

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2 Answers

Clutch pedal sticks on floor


on the bottom of the clutch housing there is a bleed nipple, like on the brakes, if you have pumped the clutch with out enough fluid in the brake receiver container you would of put air in the clutch system, you need to keep it topped up all the time so its at max. and bleed the clutch, you will need to lift the clutch pedal by hand up and down a few times to get the air out, its not assisted like the brakes so it will take a good few pumps and tightening the nippel when it feels pressure.

Jun 03, 2017 | 2004 Chevrolet Cavalier

2 Answers

How do I bleed a clutch for a 1985 mazda rx-7


Your clutch slave cylinder could be bad and leaking,here's a picture of it,it's bolted to the side of transmission,has a bleeder screw on it for bleeding.Normally,your fluid shouldn't be low,here's how to replace.

Jan 30, 2013 | 1985 Mazda RX-7

1 Answer

Pt cruiser clutch diagram


I recommend bleeding the clutch using instructions pasted from autozone.com below. As for the engine light, please get the computer scanned and send us the diagnostic trouble code.
Hydraulic System Bleeding NOTE
It is necessary to bleed the clutch hydraulic release system if the system has lost an excessive amount of fluid and has allowed air into the circuit. Air in the system typically results in a spongy pedal feel, and/or improper clutch release. If air cannot be removed from the system using this procedure, it is necessary to replace both the clutch master cylinder and slave cylinder assemblies.

Except Turbocharged Models
  1. From driver's seat, actuate clutch pedal 60-100 times. Verify clutch operation/pedal feel. If pedal still feels spongy, or clutch does not fully disengage, excessive air is still trapped within the system. Perform the following procedure:
  2. Verify fluid level in clutch master cylinder reservoir. Top off with DOT 3 brake fluid as necessary.
  3. Raise and safely support the vehicle.
  4. Remove clutch slave cylinder assembly from the transaxle case, but do not disconnect from the system. Allow the slave cylinder hang, making it the lowest part of the system.
    CAUTION
    While slave cylinder is detached from the transaxle, DO NOT actuate the clutch master cylinder. Damage to the slave cylinder will result.
  5. Depress slave cylinder pushrod until it bottoms and then release. Repeat this at least ten times, forcing trapped air upwards and out of the system.
  6. Re-install slave cylinder into position. Torque slave cylinder to case bolt to 168 inch lbs. (19 Nm).
  7. Carefully lower the vehicle.
  8. Check and adjust clutch master cylinder fluid level. Actuate clutch pedal thirty (30) times. Verify clutch operation/pedal feel. If pedal still feels spongy, or clutch does not fully disengage, air is still trapped within the system. Repeat Step 3 through Step 7 until air is purged. If several attempts at purging air from the system are unsuccessful, replace both the clutch master cylinder and slave cylinder assemblies.
  9. Raise and safely support the vehicle.
  10. Carefully lower the vehicle.
  11. Top off clutch master cylinder fluid level with DOT 3 brake fluid as necessary.
Turbocharged Models

NOTE
Due to the angle and design of the turbo hydraulic system components, gravity and pedal bleeding are less effective and less efficient than the reverse fluid injection method (reverse bleeding). Reverse bleeding is recommended for this system, and requires the use of commercially available injection bleeding equipment.

Alternate Procedure (Pedal Bleeding)
  1. Remove reservoir cap and inspect fluid level. Top off with DOT 3 Brake Fluid. Actuate clutch pedal briskly at least 50 times. Verify release system function. Repeat. If release system is still inoperative, continue with procedure.
  2. Raise and safely support the vehicle.
  3. Remove clutch bellhousing access cap to expose system bleed screw.
    WARNING
    Use care not to allow fluid to drain into clutch bellhousing. Excessive fluid will be agitated and sprayed around inside the clutch bellhousing by the rotating flywheel, contaminating the flywheel, disc, and pressure plate, resulting in poor clutch engagement.
  4. Using suitable socket/wrench, loosen bleed screw. Immediately install rubber hose to bleed screw to prevent fluid from entering clutch bellhousing. Tighten bleed screw gently with suitable wrench.
  5. Lower vehicle.
  6. Have helper actuate clutch pedal to floor.
  7. Place collection container at end of hose to capture expelled fluid.
  8. Using suitable wrench, break bleeder screw loose and tighten to 62 inch lbs. (7 Nm). Do not over-tighten.
  9. Have helper release pedal, returning it to at-rest position, and then actuate pedal to floor.
  10. Break bleeder screw loose and tighten to 62 inch lbs. (7 Nm). Do not over-tighten.
  11. Repeat procedure as necessary, keeping master cylinder reservoir full during the process, until air bubbles are no longer visible in collection container.
  12. When air bubbles are no longer visible, actuate clutch pedal briskly at least 50 times.
  13. Verify release system function and top off fluid as necessary.
Recommended Procedure (Reverse Bleeding)
  1. Remove reservoir cap and inspect fluid level. Top off with DOT 3 Brake Fluid. Actuate clutch pedal briskly at least 50 times. Verify release system function. Repeat. If release system is still inoperative, continue with procedure.
  2. Remove reservoir from bracket and empty into collection container.
  3. Raise and safely support the vehicle.
  4. Remove clutch bellhousing access cap to expose system bleed screw.
    CAUTION
    Use care not to allow fluid to drain into clutch bellhousing. Excessive fluid will be agitated and sprayed around inside the clutch bellhousing by the rotating flywheel, contaminating the flywheel, disc, and pressure plate, resulting in poor clutch engagement.
  5. Using suitable socket/wrench, loosen bleed screw.


    Fig. Location of the bleed screw for the 2.4L engine
  6. Quickly attach hand operated bleed apparatus to bleed screw. Use care not to over-fill reservoir and spill fluid into engine compartment.
  7. Operate bleed gun sufficiently to expel air upward through circuit and out of master cylinder reservoir. Fill and empty reservoir three times.
  8. Remove bleed apparatus and tighten bleed screw to 62 inch lbs. (7 Nm). Do not over-tighten.
  9. Carefully lower the vehicle.
  10. Top off reservoir with fluid, then return the cap.
  11. Verify system operation. Actuate clutch pedal 50 times. If necessary, repeat procedure until road test confirms that shift issues no longer exist.

May 20, 2017 | 2002 Chrysler PT Cruiser

1 Answer

My daughter's 1997 Camry V-6 - Clutch pedal will go to the floor and sometimes won't come back. Checked fluid in clutch reservoir - OK. No fluid leaking. Had her press the clutch pedal and everything...


try bleeding the clutch slave cylinder its just like bleeding brakes just follow the line from the clutch master cylinder where you checked the fluid to the slave cylinder and pump the clutch three times and hold it to the floor while someone loosens the relief valve you repeat until no air comes out and it is all fluid then you check you fluid level again to make sure it is full then if the problem continues it might be time for a clutch replacement

Oct 20, 2010 | Toyota Camry Cars & Trucks

2 Answers

Clutch pedal going to the floor too easily..


You likely have a leak in either the master for the clutch, the line going to the slave unit or the slave itself. You need to look at these items and replace any leaking components. If the master is full, likely it is internally bypassing and therefore needs replacement. Air in the system can only get in there from a leak. bleeding may make it work for a short time but is not a cure. After making any repairs you do need to bleed it though. (just like brakes)

Oct 23, 2009 | 2004 Nissan Maxima

1 Answer

1996 nissan maxima clutch sticks to floor


yes, Briong the pedal up where it belongs, then open an fill your master cylider. Then go below and open the bleeder intil the fluid runs/drips steady and free of any bubbles. Do not pump the pedal. When only fluid comes out, tighten/close the bleeder and give it a try. Good Luck. If peal dives again, replace the master cylinder.

Jul 02, 2009 | 1996 Nissan Maxima

2 Answers

Clutch pedal goes down to floor but doesnt come back up when some1 starts engine and i put a bar by clutch level and move it we can select gears then i have change master cylinder but no different can you...


sounds like your clutch plate is sticking, i recommend fitting a new clutch kit, while doing this remember to machine the flywheel or you will still have same problem. if this does not work it might be your clutch cable, replace cale first (cheaper option 1st) then replace the clutch kit.

Jun 04, 2009 | 2003 Mini Cooper

2 Answers

Clutch has no resistance, stays near floor after applying pressur


You could refill but, i would replace the clutch master cylinder and slave cylinder as well. these two parts are failing.

Mar 06, 2009 | 1991 Honda Accord

2 Answers

Bleeding clutch slave cylinder


i think youre doing the right thing. they are very stubborn to bleed because the hyd. line goes up high across back of engine before droppiing back down to slave cyl., trapping air. could try to gravity bleed by opening bleeder at slave, cap off of master cyl, full with fluid then it may start to come out after a bit. then try your process again. or can try to bleed at connections further up the line, working your way back to bleeder. hope this helps. be patient.

Nov 15, 2008 | 1996 Honda Accord

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