Question about Cars & Trucks
It may have water in the fuel tank. water comes from the air that is drawn into the tank while driving, and will condense on the inside of the tank. Once you start to drive this water is washed off the inside of the tank and collects at the bottom of the tank, after you park the car.
While driving this water can be drawn into the fuel system, and water, as we all know doesn't burn, by itself.
It can't evaporate since water is heavier than fuel is so there are two ways to remove this water. One way is to have a sample taken to see if there is water in the fuel, and drop the tank and use special equipment to pump it out. Only a qualified mechanic should attempt this, a vacuum will cause an explosive reaction, in the vacuum itself. I like to use a hand type vacuum pump with an in line catch bottle, and it is a safer way to do this.
However if not much water has accumulated you can add 99% alcohol to the fuel and this will mix with the water and allow it to be taken into the fuel system and burned, This happens allot when folks allow the tank to remain mostly empty much of the time, and naturally occurs in humid environments that experience cold nights.
Commercial fuel drying additives use alcohol to do the very same thing, but are very costly. 99% alcohol is sold at most stores, and is much less expensive. It is 99% denatured "Rubbing alcohol" and will not hurt anything, and will save you money.
If this issue continues have your car or truck taken to a qualified mechanic, and he, or she can check the fuel, and also check for codes in the computer on your vehicle, It could be that the oxygen sensors are not working as they should causing similar symptoms. O2 sensors help the PCM, Power Train Control Module trim fuel delivery after the vehicle reaches operating temperature, and this is called "closed loop operation", while your car is cold, it is in "open loop" and doesn't trim fuel delivery, it operates on a pre-programed fuel delivery schedule, until warmed up.
While in closed loop, a faulty O2 can affect fuel delivery, it can cause "Bucking " or uneven fuel delivery, ie missing, and even stalling if the heater circuit inside the O2 sensor leaks voltage into the sensor, and affects the computers fuel delivery duties. I have experienced this myself with the "Serial data link" active, also known as a code reader with serial data capabilities.
In the days of carburater's, ice would cause similar issues as you described, but that is eliminated with fuel injection.
You should conduct a visual inspection of the fuel rail, and the pressure regulator, it is a small canister with a vacuum line leading to it., if the vacuum line is off, pressure would normally increase, but it could be a damaged regulator, and pressure inside the rail can be dumped back to the tank. Some systems have the regulator in the tank, but look around anyway just to see if things are all where they aught to be. Check to see if the electrical plugs are all fully seated in the injectors. If there's something burned, or looks damaged take it directly to a qualified mechanic.
Posted on Nov 09, 2014
Could be a faulty Electronic Control Module. I can only speculate. Check for spark at the spark plugs when it is stalled. Does the check engine light come on? I found this: I have a 2006 cobalt LT that for some reason keeps dying. The check engine was on , so I took it to Autozone and the code P0601 came up, which was the electronic control module rom fault. My question is on an 06, should this be going out this soon? Any ideas on what to look at or where to start. Didnt want to spend 280.00 on a new one and that not fix the problem.
Posted on Nov 09, 2014
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
just went thru the same think wit a s 430 it was the crank position sensor . 60 bucks at auto zone and it took me 5min. 2 install if u need help feel free to call me 918 808 9706 chris
Posted on May 15, 2009
SOURCE: Car is running fine then
I had the same problem, but only when it rained. There was a crack in the ignition coil unit and the water was creating an arc. When I drove long enough to heat the engine and evaporate the water it would run fine. Strangely, though, I still had to stop and restart the engine. $150 bucks the replace the ignition coil, and now no problems (at least with that)
Posted on May 22, 2009
It's got all the symptoms of a leak in the fuel line. You may want to start backward at the tank and work your way all the way to the carb to find it but it would be surprising if it was something else. All the best.
Posted on Jun 15, 2009
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