Question about 2009 Maserati GranTurismo Coupe

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I don't think it is the parking brake because the front brakes won't completely release either.

Brakes won't completely release, front and back.

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  • Maserati Master
  • 40,797 Answers

Run the fault codes to check for ABS fault. replace master cylinder as the compensating ports are blocked.

Posted on Nov 09, 2014

Testimonial: "Cant I just unblock the ports of the master cylinder?"

  • Bill Boyd Nov 09, 2014

    if that is the case it will mean a complete rebuild of the master cylinder. If the cylinder is old then there will be wear in the cylinder which means that the repair job will have limited life. best talk it over with an accredited brake specialist as brakes are an area not to be attempted by a person with no experience.

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2 Answers

What does it mean wnen Brake light has exclamation point in a circle, and a P in a circle.


I think a Parking Brake issue

The symbol is in the owners manual
& on web sites

Aug 20, 2014 | 2002 Pontiac Grand Prix

1 Answer

My honda jazz is giving me a problem.when i am by the stop and i accelerate when its green light i feel a shake on the front end wheel.have have changed the tyres i did alignment but still the same


I'm guessing there's a delay in the front brakes releasing when you take your foot off the brakes. Try this experiment. In a large parking area (like a shopping center) where you can give yourself plenty of braking distance, use your emergency (parking) brakes to bring your car to a stop. The parking brakes only operates the rear brakes. When you come to a complete stop, accelerate and see if you still feel this shake on the front steering axle. If the symptom stops when you only use the rear brakes, then the brake master cylinder is not releasing the hydraulic pressure on the front brakes when you take your foot off the brake pedal. Who ever did your tires and alignment job should have suspected this, assuming you mentioned this symptom to them.
You spelled t-y-r-e-s which indicates you originated from Australia or UK England. In USA & Canada, we spell t-i-r-e-s. Put another shrimp on the barbie for me :-)

Nov 29, 2013 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

For the Honda CRV 2004, the driver's side automatic window does not go up or down but all other ones do. Please advise.


Your emergency brake is a mechanical brake system that is indipendant of the regular hydrolic system. If the red brake light on the dash is on make sure it's the emerg. brake and not a problem with the fluid level or the calapers sticking. the best way to check the emerg. brake is to rase both rear wheels off the ground and spin them. If they spin, the emerg. brake is not locked up. If they don't spin, take the rear tires off and the brake drums. (you may have rear disk brakes.) check the springs to insure they are all hooked up properly. If there is no problem there, follow the parking brake cable to check for damage. The cable is like a brake cable on a bike, If the inner cable is binding inside the cable sleeve,the brake wont release. If you have rear disc, it's probly a bad calaper.The park brake cable is attached to the calapers. Rember if it wont run it's annoying but if it won't stop, it's deadly. DON"T experiment with brakes!!! If in doubt, take it to a pro.

Oct 12, 2012 | 2004 Honda CR-V

1 Answer

Brakes are engaging while driving. brake pedal becomes very stiff and when let off gas car starts to slow dramatically


First find a new mechanic & expect a decent size repair bill

I will guess that the main cause is the ABS Braking System
I won't try & diagnose it without the car,but that may explain
the application or failure of the brakes to release when at speed

That said, the heat & smoke and your mechanics hap hazard
quess,may be lead to other issues,such as collapsed brake hose,
rusted caliper piston, from never changing the brake fluid,now you
have the pads cooked from the heat, as well as the rotors.

My concern is how things will be diagnosed & addressed as far as
the fix goes.

I will bet you will get many different stories, from different shops

I would check for ABS Codes & other Data & resolve that issue first
Then I would completely go through all 4 corners of the brakes.

Flush the system,inspect hoses,most likely due to age & heat,replace the calipers & unlike most people, may machine the rotors, as i have
never found any fact based reason a rotor would warp from heat.

I have to ask,why would you even drive one mile, the first time
you experienced such a brake or vibration problem, like that?

Then go 60 mph knowing full well you had serious problems
& could be involved in crash & hurt yourself or someone else.

Driving a 4000 lb vehicle, is a bigger responsiblity than anyone
cares about.

Jun 01, 2012 | 2000 Chrysler Concorde

1 Answer

The front passenger wheel is locking up. The rotor, caliper, brake sensor and brakes have been replaced


The rubber brake hose may have collaped inside
or a clamp on it rusted & squezzed it

Calipers could be all rust inside & don't release

May 24, 2012 | 1999 Lincoln Continental

1 Answer

Shift lever will not move out of park. Engine is running, seat belt fastened, parking brake released, all doors hood and trunk closed, foot firmly on brake pedal.When the button on the side of the shifter...


you should hear a click from the solenoid when you apply the brakes. If your brake lights don't work, your shift lock release won't either. There is a bypass method for emergencies in your owner manual. Check fuse for brake lights. And switch on brake pedal

Nov 06, 2011 | 2000 Saturn Ls 4dr Sedan

1 Answer

I just spent $500 replacing rear rotors and rear brakes on a 2009 Suzuki SX4. This vehicle has 39,000km. Is there a problem with suzuki rotors? 39,000km seems a little too ealy for me to need new rotors....


120,000 K would be about time for new rotors, if they
were machined once along the way

I have no idea about recalls or problems,so maybe I
shouldn't respond at all

My personal opinion & I do not mean to be hurtful in any
way,is that you can not just drive a vehicle & never
take it apart,even a brand new

All brakes have to come apart once a year to remove rust
& clean,inspect & lube things
Brake Pads & Calipers simply won't slide or release 4 months
after any brake work or at least very well

I don't see any indication that the pros do that kind of work,
or ever have & certainly never educate you on any subject

I am saying your brakes were dragging & shouldn't have been
& you parking brake need to release properly

You can spend $400.00 just for quality parts at repair shop
cost, with no problem
15 years ago you had a hard time spending $200.00 to do
all 4 wheels

Aug 02, 2011 | Suzuki SX4 Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Front tire smoke from wheel bearings or brakes


Brake hose collapsed inside,caliper won't release,
smoke from brake pads

Calipers could be rusty & frozen also & as on
most vehicles, all kinds of rust,no anti-sieze ever
used to lube caliper or pads

Jun 12, 2011 | 1990 Dodge Dakota

1 Answer

93 honda accord the brakes lock down as soon as it gets warm


I am interpreting your description to mean that the brakes seem to work fine once or twice, but then they fail to release after only a short amount of use. If sounds right, the most common cause for this is that one or more of your disk brake calipers is sticking, failing to release even after you let off the brake pedal. Normally, only one caliper will fail at one time, meaning that the car will pull strongly to the side where the brake has locked up. You can also test this theory by driving the car until it starts to drag. Pull over and lightly touch each of the tire rims. One or more of them should be hot--possibly burning hot--to the touch from all the heat that's been generated by the stuck brake caliper. A wheel with a properly working brake will probably feel warm to the touch--but not super-hot, unless you've just completed a motorcross course or something that gave your brakes a real workout.

You can buy rebuild kits for most brake calipers, but, in all honesty, it may cost almost the same and be better in the long run to buy a factory-rebuilt caliper, trading in your old one for its core. Factory rebuilt calipers are sandblasted and carefully cleaned and painted before the new parts are installed; quite frankly, I've never done any of that when I've rebuilt my own calipers.

It's possible that you might have frozen calipers even if both brakes on an axle (i.e., both front or both back wheels) are locking up. You might have gotten moisture into both of them by driving through a deep puddle, etc.--or you might not have noticed the problem until both calipers started acting up, holding back your car even more. I don't believe that your Accord has any kind of special one-way pressure relief valves in the brake lines, outside of what's in your master cylinder.

Another cause for your braking problem might be your master cylinder. Ordinarily, master cylinder problems show up as loss of braking--your brake pedal goes to the floor or becomes very mushy. However, it's possible that a faulty master cylinder with some internal corrosion could be failing to release pressure after it's been applied. If you've excluded the brake calipers as a cause, this would be the next place I'd check.

A final thought is to think about the age of the brake fluid in your system. If it's older than a few years--or you can't remember the last time your system was flushed--chances are that the fluid is old and has absorbed too much water to perform at its original specifications. I don't think that water in the lines would tend to lock up your brakes, but you could try flushing out your brake system by bleeding all the lines and feeding a steady supply of fresh fluid into your master cylinder. Start with the rear brakes and bleed the front brake that's closest to the master cylinder last. This won't be a quick pump the brakes a few times and look for air bubbles kind of bleed. Instead, you'll want to pull out a half cup or more of fluid at each brake, ensuring that fresh brake fluid is being pulled into the brake lines and into the brake fluid reservoirs at the calipers and at the rear drums.

May 18, 2011 | 1993 Honda Accord

1 Answer

Hi, I have a 2005 tucson, i applied my handbreak yesterday in my driveway and now it won,t fully release. back wheel is making a noise when i go forward. my question is, do i have to replace it or can i...


YOU NEED TO ADJUST REAR PARKING BRAKE AT THE LEVER.FIRST OF ALL YOU NEED TO BLOCK FRONT WHEELS.THEN RAISE THE REAR OF THE VECHICLE.SUPPORT WITH JACK STANDS.MAKE SURE YOU ARE ON HARD LEVEL SOLID GROUND WHEN USING JACK STANDS.AFTER RAISING THE CAR SET PARKING BRAKE 1 CLICK TOWARD ENGAGEMENT.REMOVE FLOOR CONSOLE.TIGHTEN THE ADJUSTING NUT UNTIL THE PARKING BRAKES DRAG SLIGHTLY WHEN THE REAR WHEELS ARE TURNED.RELEASE THE PARKING BRAKE COMPLETELY.CHECK IG PARKING BRAKES DRAG WHEN REAR WHEELS ARE TURNED.READJUST IT NECESSARY UNTIL THERE IS NO BRAKE DRAG FROM THE PARKING BRAKES.

Apr 20, 2010 | 2005 Hyundai Tucson

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