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How do I bleed a new REAR master cylinder to the back brake on my 2001 BMW R1150R

Had to buy a new REAR master cylinder for my NON-ABS 2001 BMW R1150R when the bleed nipple broke off during a ride and I lost use of the back brake. How do I bleed the new cylinder into the back brake line? Do I need some kind of pressure device?

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  • 213 Answers

Their is an old trick. have someone help you have them pump the brake about 5 time allowing the pedal come up each time have them hold the pedal down as you loosen the brake line at the wheel cylinder the tighten it up before the pedal come up and repeat till the brake feels good,keep an eye on the mastercylinder level

Posted on Nov 08, 2014

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

Jay_from_Ma
  • 99 Answers

SOURCE: 1998 chevy C-1500 brake problems

Try a clean and adjust on the rear shoes, because sometimes when they aren't properly adjusted they won't seem to work properly. Also there is a common "squishy" petal feeling after brake work on most all larger GM's around that year, wich I have run into several times. Try test driving it, and put a couple miles on it, That usualy helps.
Good luck!

Posted on Dec 17, 2008

  • 232 Answers

SOURCE: Spongy brakes after bleeding them 2 times. Should I try to bleed the master cylinder or replace it?

Honestly your guess is as good as mine. But I don't think the master cylinder is NOT bad you still have air in the system. Get a big bottle of brake fluid bleed all four sides until you run out of fluid or your brakes work properly. You should divide the bottle's content in four, then use each quantity in each side. You'll be removing air and contaminated fluid from the system. Get a small hose that fits on the bleeders and an appropriate container. I have a good feeling if you do this your brakes will work just fine. I don't know how you are bleeding the brakes. I'll let you know the proper way just in case. This is a two man job, with the wheel off, have someone start the car. Have them pump the brakes a few times to get pressure. 1With the brake pedal UP open the bleeder, 2then have your assistant press the brake pedal all the way down and leave it completely pressed down. 3Close the bleeder valve, once close and only with the valve closed have'm release the brake. Repeat as necessary, bake depressed, open valve first then press brake. DO NOT depress until valve completly closed. Close valve THEN depress. Good Luck!

Posted on May 15, 2009

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: 2003 town and country brake problem

Did your mechanic use a DRB III or equivalent scanner before performing the bleeding procedure after installing the master cylinder? This is a requirement by the manufacturer (Chrysler) when bleeding the brake system.

Posted on May 15, 2009

  • 691 Answers

SOURCE: 1994 Cavalier -replaced master cylinder-no pressure to rear brake

The most common bleeding procedure is to bleed the ABS brake furthest from the master cylinder first, then bleed the other brake that shares the same hydraulic circuit (which may be the other rear brake on a rear-wheel drive car, or the opposite front brake on a front-wheel drive car or minivan). After these have been bled, you then bleed the other brake circuit starting with the furthest brake from the master cylinder.
Air can be very difficult to remove from an ABS modulator assembly because of all the nooks and crannies inside the unit. The modulator may have eight to 10, or more, ABS/traction control solenoid valves, plus various check valves and dead-end ports. Some ABS modulators have special bleed screws to help you vent the trapped air when bleeding the system. Others do not and require the use of a scan tool to cycle the ABS solenoids while you bleed the system. 1. To bleed the isolation valves in the modulator, there are two bleeder screws. Start with the one toward the engine. Turn the ignition on and apply light pressure on the brake pedal. Open the bleeder screw and allow the fluid to flow until clear. Close the screw and do the same at the second bleeder screw. 2. Depressurize the accumulator by pumping the pedal 40 times with the key off. Wait about two minutes for the brake fluid to de-aerate, then refill the fluid reservoir with DOT 3 brake fluid. 3. Now you can bleed the boost section. This is done by applying moderate pressure on the brake pedal and turning the ignition on for three seconds, then off. Repeat this a total of 10 times. Make sure the pedal feels firm when you have finished, and give the car a road test to make sure the brakes are working properly.

Posted on Jul 25, 2009

protek480
  • 1714 Answers

SOURCE: 1997 Chevy 1500 pickup 2wd

One of the wheel cylinders is leaking, pulling air back into brake system and it's going back to the4 master cylinder. Look for brake fluid leaking at one of the wheel cylinders, that's where the problem is.

Posted on Oct 10, 2009

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Ford f150 lariet - 2000 - change back disc brakes and pads. Have tried bleeding system with vehicle running and off. When it was off and started the brakes pedal goes soft and to the floor. Have tried...


IF the hand brake activates through the caliper piston unit and it was necessary to screw the piston back in to fit the new pads then you will have to readjust the hand brake .. The may be a bleed nipple on the abs unit . It is not necessary to run the engine to bleed the brakes. IF you used a clamp to push the piston back in then there may be crap in the master cylinder that is affecting the operation of the non-return valve at the outlet of the master-cylinder.

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2001 ford windstar lx master cylinder new i replaced but abs n brake light come on


Needs to have code reset for abs by a obd2 code reader with abs or find a parts house or shop that will reset it. Brake light coming on did you bleed the master cylinder out by connecting rubber lines to ths plastic insert ******* then acuating the master cylinder til all air is pumped out of master cylinder if that was not done then you will need to bleed all brakes until air is out of system that should turn brake light off

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How to bleed brakes on 1997 Saturn


The brake system bleeding procedure differs for ABS and non-ABS vehicles. The following procedure pertains only to non-ABS vehicles. For details on bleeding ABS equipped vehicles, refer to the ABS procedures later in this section.

WARNING Make sure the master cylinder contains clean DOT 3 brake fluid at all times during the procedure.
  1. The master cylinder must be bled first if it is suspected of containing air. Bleed the master cylinder as follows:
    1. Position a container under the master cylinder to catch the brake fluid.
    2. Loosen the left front brake line (front upper port) at the master cylinder and allow the fluid to flow from the front port.
    3. Connect the line and tighten to 24 ft. lbs. (32 Nm).
    4. Have an assistant depress the brake pedal slowly one time and hold it down, while you loosen the front line to expel air from the master cylinder. Tighten the line, then release the brake pedal. Repeat until all air is removed from the master cylinder.
    5. Tighten the brake line to 24 ft. lbs. (32 Nm) when finished.
    6. Repeat these steps for the right front brake line (rear upper port) at the master cylinder.
WARNING Do not allow brake fluid to spill on or come in contact with the vehicle' finish, as it will remove the paint. In case of a spill, immediately flush the area with water.
  1. If a single line or fitting was the only hydraulic line disconnected, then only the caliper(s) or wheel cylinder(s) affected by that line must be bled. If the master cylinder required bleeding, then all calipers and wheel cylinders must be bled in the proper sequence:
    1. Right rear
    2. Left front
    3. Left rear
    4. Right front
  2. Bleed the individual calipers or wheel cylinders as follows:
    1. Place a suitable wrench over the bleeder screw and attach a clear plastic hose over the screw end.
    2. Submerge the other end in a transparent container of brake fluid.
    3. Loosen the bleed screw, then have an assistant apply the brake pedal slowly and hold it down. Close the bleed screw, then release the brake pedal. Repeat the sequence until all air is expelled from the caliper or cylinder.
    4. When finished, tighten the bleed screw to 97 inch lbs. (11 Nm) for the front, or 66 inch lbs. (7.5 Nm) for the rear.
  3. Check the pedal for a hard feeling with the engine not running. If the pedal is soft, repeat the bleeding procedure until a firm pedal is obtained.
zjlimited_349.jpg

Fig. 1: Loosen the front brake line in order to bleed the master cylinder

zjlimited_350.jpg

Fig. 2: Connect a bleed hose from the bleed valve on the front caliper to a jar of brake fluid

zjlimited_351.jpg

Fig. 3: Always follow the lettered sequence when bleeding the hydraulic brake system





Hope this helps to solve it; remember to rate this answer.

Dec 29, 2010 | 1997 Saturn SL

1 Answer

I have a 2001 Dodge Dakota that will not lock up the brakes. Everything has been replaced and it coasts to a stop. The pedel goes to the floor at full stop . Master cyl, prop valve, new lines, and...


Master cylinter is shot is my first thought. if it has been replaced with a referb.. replace it again. make sure you bench bleed the master cylinder before putting it on.. if it's new, you have a ton of air in the lines.. bleed the pass rear first/ drivers rear/ pass front/ pass rear.. FYI your brakes/ tires should never lock up, you have ABS.

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Can not get a pedal, replaced master cylinder twice, bled everything, no pedal...can't seem to get fluid out of the 3 front ports on the master cylinder...could both master cylinders be defective, or am I...


Did you bleed the master cylinder before you put it in the vehicle?This usually makes it easier to bleed the entire brake system if this is done before you install the master cylinder.Other wise all you have done is put air in the brake system.The master cylinder kit usually comes with a bleeder kit.This is for bench bleeding the master.Hope this helps.Good luck.

Dec 31, 2009 | 2001 Chevrolet Tracker

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Nov 05, 2009 | 2001 Nissan Sentra

1 Answer

Replaced the brake hose drivers side. Old hose exploded. Now I am unable to get brake pressure after several attempts to bleed the brakes.


IF IT HAS ABS U HAVE TO HAVE A SCAN TOOL TO ACTIVATE THE ABS PUMP.NON-ABS START AT THE MASTER CYLINDER AND BLEED THOSE LINES FIRST.THEN RIGHT REAR,LEFT FRONT,LEFT REAR & RIGHT FRONT IN THAT ORDER.STILL PROBLEMS U MAY HAVE A BAD BRAKE MASTER

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Back brakes do not work


You need to bleed the rear brakes to remove all air so they will work. Start w/ the wheel the greatest distance from the master cylinder, check master cyl. level often, if you draw in air, you have to start all over again. Repeat 'til all air is removed from system.

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what kind of vehicle?? wheel cylinder maybe, ... look in side rim for fluid... does new master loose fluid?? did you bleed brakes after new master install???

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Tony,

When bleeding brakes after the system has been opened for service (you didn't say if you were doing any work on the master cylinder) you should start with the farthest wheel away from the master cylinder, which is the righ rear. Fill the master cylinder, then have an assitant "pump up" the brake pedal. Tell them to hold it down firmly, then open the bleeder on the wheel cylinder(s). Do not release the brake pedal until you have closed the bleeder valve again. You'll know when the air is out - there won't be any more bubbles. Since this vehicle is 2001, this would be a great opportunity to flush the system. Just make sure you have enough brake fluid (DOT 3 or 4, depending on your vehicle). Good luck!

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