Question about Cars & Trucks
Had to buy a new REAR master cylinder for my NON-ABS 2001 BMW R1150R when the bleed nipple broke off during a ride and I lost use of the back brake. How do I bleed the new cylinder into the back brake line? Do I need some kind of pressure device?
Their is an old trick. have someone help you have them pump the brake about 5 time allowing the pedal come up each time have them hold the pedal down as you loosen the brake line at the wheel cylinder the tighten it up before the pedal come up and repeat till the brake feels good,keep an eye on the mastercylinder level
Posted on Nov 08, 2014
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: 1998 chevy C-1500 brake problems
Try a clean and adjust on the rear shoes, because sometimes when they aren't properly adjusted they won't seem to work properly. Also there is a common "squishy" petal feeling after brake work on most all larger GM's around that year, wich I have run into several times. Try test driving it, and put a couple miles on it, That usualy helps.
Posted on Dec 17, 2008
Honestly your guess is as good as mine. But I don't think the master cylinder is NOT bad you still have air in the system. Get a big bottle of brake fluid bleed all four sides until you run out of fluid or your brakes work properly. You should divide the bottle's content in four, then use each quantity in each side. You'll be removing air and contaminated fluid from the system. Get a small hose that fits on the bleeders and an appropriate container. I have a good feeling if you do this your brakes will work just fine. I don't know how you are bleeding the brakes. I'll let you know the proper way just in case. This is a two man job, with the wheel off, have someone start the car. Have them pump the brakes a few times to get pressure. 1With the brake pedal UP open the bleeder, 2then have your assistant press the brake pedal all the way down and leave it completely pressed down. 3Close the bleeder valve, once close and only with the valve closed have'm release the brake. Repeat as necessary, bake depressed, open valve first then press brake. DO NOT depress until valve completly closed. Close valve THEN depress. Good Luck!
Posted on May 15, 2009
Did your mechanic use a DRB III or equivalent scanner before performing the bleeding procedure after installing the master cylinder? This is a requirement by the manufacturer (Chrysler) when bleeding the brake system.
Posted on May 15, 2009
The most common bleeding procedure is to bleed the ABS brake furthest from the master cylinder first, then bleed the other brake that shares the same hydraulic circuit (which may be the other rear brake on a rear-wheel drive car, or the opposite front brake on a front-wheel drive car or minivan). After these have been bled, you then bleed the other brake circuit starting with the furthest brake from the master cylinder.
Air can be very difficult to remove from an ABS modulator assembly because of all the nooks and crannies inside the unit. The modulator may have eight to 10, or more, ABS/traction control solenoid valves, plus various check valves and dead-end ports. Some ABS modulators have special bleed screws to help you vent the trapped air when bleeding the system. Others do not and require the use of a scan tool to cycle the ABS solenoids while you bleed the system. 1. To bleed the isolation valves in the modulator, there are two bleeder screws. Start with the one toward the engine. Turn the ignition on and apply light pressure on the brake pedal. Open the bleeder screw and allow the fluid to flow until clear. Close the screw and do the same at the second bleeder screw. 2. Depressurize the accumulator by pumping the pedal 40 times with the key off. Wait about two minutes for the brake fluid to de-aerate, then refill the fluid reservoir with DOT 3 brake fluid. 3. Now you can bleed the boost section. This is done by applying moderate pressure on the brake pedal and turning the ignition on for three seconds, then off. Repeat this a total of 10 times. Make sure the pedal feels firm when you have finished, and give the car a road test to make sure the brakes are working properly.
Posted on Jul 25, 2009
SOURCE: 1997 Chevy 1500 pickup 2wd
One of the wheel cylinders is leaking, pulling air back into brake system and it's going back to the4 master cylinder. Look for brake fluid leaking at one of the wheel cylinders, that's where the problem is.
Posted on Oct 10, 2009
Testimonial: "The problem was resolved through other means"
Tips for a great answer:
Aug 31, 2013 | 1998 Ford F150 Regular Cab
Apr 09, 2017 | 2001 Ford Windstar
Fig. 1: Loosen the front brake line in order to bleed the master cylinder
Fig. 2: Connect a bleed hose from the bleed valve on the front caliper to a jar of brake fluid
Fig. 3: Always follow the lettered sequence when bleeding the hydraulic brake system
Hope this helps to solve it; remember to rate this answer.
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