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A/C compressor is engaged even when turned off inside. battery also is being drained when car is not running.

Clutch fell apart and locked up on a/c compressor, so it's been replaced; but now it stays engaged even when turned off inside. When connecting the battery terminals I hear a click from the compressor as though it's on even before starting the car. Relay has also been checked. Battery being drained when car is off too.

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  • 19 Answers

Unplug the power lead from the AC compressor.If it stays locked up it a mechanical issue with the new Clutch. If it unlocks check the following. Look at the AC Relay. If it has fused or failed in the closed position the ac clutch will remain engaged. As I don't have the vehicle details I can't provide further details

Posted on Nov 09, 2014

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6ya6ya
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: 95 F150 wont crank

the starter should be replaced. The solenoid is kikcing the pinion out but there is no contact being made to turn the starter motor. I have the exact same truck and before i changed the starter used the old starter tap trick. Tap the starter casing with a hammer and it should start turning again. hope this was helpful for you. Good luck.

Posted on Nov 07, 2008

leetamara
  • 702 Answers

SOURCE: 94 F150 5L won't crank

Sounds like your starter has decided not to work anymore.

Posted on Feb 09, 2009

dennymulford
  • 1055 Answers

SOURCE: Truck wont start just clicks.

either a bad body ground,or your tranny is locked up,did it run good before you shut it off?

Posted on Mar 11, 2009

goldenglove1
  • 144 Answers

SOURCE: Can a bad ignition switch drain battery and

An ignition switch probably isn't the problem, because the vehicle probably wouldn't shut off if the switch were the problem. When you turn your car off the battery is not being drained any longer from the switch unless the vehicle is unable to shut down.
The other possibility that will definately cause a battery to lose juice while not running is a faulty starter sellinoid. When these sellinoid's, (may not be spelled correctly, sorry about that) are bad, the motor is turned off but the battery is still drawing current, but the engine is not running to allow the battery to recharge.
It could also be a bad battery. Check your battery cylinders by removing the plastic covering and checking the water level in the cells. Dry cells in a battery will not allow a jump.

Posted on Mar 21, 2010

  • 580 Answers

SOURCE: My 1998 Ford Taurus has a battery that keeps dying

You obviously have a short. I think it may be your starter selinoid or starter relay. It could also be a mercury switch failure in your trunk or under the hood. They turn the lights on & off accordingly under the hoods. Have your starter checked out. Also it could be an ignition switch problem. Check the starter first. Good luck!

Posted on Jun 16, 2010

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The A/C will not turn off on my 2006 Kia Sedona EX. Air blows cold, but no matter where you set the control knobs for A/C system or fan controls the A/C stays on. Even with knob in the OFF position.


Looking under the hood in engine compartment with engine running A/C off , the compressor is engaged ? If so , the A/C compressor clutch relay is stuck closed energizing the compressor clutch all the time . Now if your talking about the blower inside the car running all the time , air blowing out of the vents . The A/C isn't engaged . Could be blower motor relay stuck or the control module is bad .

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see the next steps and fix it. God bless you
If so, the compressor is working and the A/C system probably contains enough refrigerant to make cold air, so the problem is inside the HVAC unit. Replace the motor that controls the blend air door (this is a difficult job and best left to a professional since it involves tearing apart the HVAC unit -- about an 8 to 10 hour job!).
If the compressor does not engage when you turn on the A/C, see if it will run by jumping the compressor clutch wire directly to the battery (use a fused jumper wire). If the compressor works when you jump it, and the A/C blows cold air, the system contains refrigerant and the fault is likely a bad A/C compressor clutch relay or a bad clutch cycling switch or pressure switch.
If the compressor does not engage when you jump it, the problem is a bad compressor clutch.
If the clutch engages but the compressor does not turn (the belt will start to slip and squeal), the compressor is locked up and you need a new compressor.
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proceed according and fix it. God bless you
If so, the compressor is working and the A/C system probably contains enough refrigerant to make cold air, so the problem is inside the HVAC unit. Replace the motor that controls the blend air door (this is a difficult job and best left to a professional since it involves tearing apart the HVAC unit -- about an 8 to 10 hour job!).
If the compressor does not engage when you turn on the A/C, see if it will run by jumping the compressor clutch wire directly to the battery (use a fused jumper wire). If the compressor works when you jump it, and the A/C blows cold air, the system contains refrigerant and the fault is likely a bad A/C compressor clutch relay or a bad clutch cycling switch or pressure switch.
If the compressor does not engage when you jump it, the problem is a bad compressor clutch.
If the clutch engages but the compressor does not turn (the belt will start to slip and squeal), the compressor is locked up and you need a new compressor.
If the compressor clutch engages and turns the compressor, but the A/C still does not blow cold air, the system is probably low on refrigerant and needs to be recharged

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see this causes and fix it. God bless you
Compressor Checks
checkmark.gif Start with the compressor. Does it engage when you turn on the A/C?
If so, the compressor is working and the A/C system probably contains enough refrigerant to make cold air, so the problem is inside the HVAC unit. Replace the motor that controls the blend air door (this is a difficult job and best left to a professional since it involves tearing apart the HVAC unit -- about an 8 to 10 hour job!).
If the compressor does not engage when you turn on the A/C, see if it will run by jumping the compressor clutch wire directly to the battery (use a fused jumper wire). If the compressor works when you jump it, and the A/C blows cold air, the system contains refrigerant and the fault is likely a bad A/C compressor clutch relay or a bad clutch cycling switch or pressure switch.
If the compressor does not engage when you jump it, the problem is a bad compressor clutch.
If the clutch engages but the compressor does not turn (the belt will start to slip and squeal), the compressor is locked up and you need a new compressor.
If the compressor clutch engages and turns the compressor, but the A/C still does not blow cold air, the system is probably low on refrigerant and needs to be recharged.
Refrigerant Checks
checkmark.gif Connect an A/C pressure gauge to the HIGH SIDE service port (located in the high pressure hose that runs between the compressor and the condenser in the front of the engine compartment). The gauge will tell you if there is any pressure in the system. Simply depressing the service fitting valve with a small screwdriver to see if any refrigerant squirts out is NOT an accurate check because it tell you how much pressure is in the system. It may still have some pressure but not enough to trip the low pressure safety switch so the compressor will engage.
If your A/C system is low or out of refrigerant, check for leaks, then have the A/C system vacuum purged to remove air. After the air is out, it can be recharged with the specified amount of refrigerant. It is important to get any air out as this will reduce cooling efficiency and may make the compressor noisy.
A/C System Functional Checks
checkmark.gif If the refrigeration circuit seems to be working (refrigerant in the system, compressor running and building pressure), but there is still no cooling, the problem might be an obstruction in the orifice tube (located in the high pressure hose between the condenser in the front of the radiator, and the evaporator located in the passenger compartment). A blockage here will prevent the refrigerant from entering the evaporator or recirculating through the refrigeration circuit.
If the orifice tube is plugged, the high side pressure reading will be lower than normal, and the low side reading will also be lower than normal because no refrigerant is circulating through the system.
checkmark.gif If the refrigeration circuit seems to be functioning normally (compressor running, frost or condensation on the high pressure line from the condenser to the evaporator), but no cool air is blowing out of the ducts inside the car (and the blower is working), the fault is likely a BLEND AIR door that is stuck in the HEAT position, or possibly a badly clogged cabin air filter that is restricting airflow. Another possibility would be a fault in the automatic climate control system such as a ad interior temperature sensor or control module.

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see this steps and think with clearly and logically NOT feared. God bless you
checkmark.gif Start with the compressor. Does it engage when you turn on the A/C?
If so, the compressor is working and the A/C system probably contains enough refrigerant to make cold air, so the problem is inside the HVAC unit. Replace the motor that controls the blend air door (this is a difficult job and best left to a professional since it involves tearing apart the HVAC unit -- about an 8 to 10 hour job!).
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If the clutch engages but the compressor does not turn (the belt will start to slip and squeal), the compressor is locked up and you need a new compressor.
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Your A/C system may have lost its charge of refrigerant, or the compressor may not be engaging when you turn on the A/C, or the blend air door inside the HVAC unit may be stuck in the HEAT position so no air goes through the A/C evaporator.
Start with the compressor. Does it engage when you turn on the A/C?
If so, the compressor is working and the A/C system probably contains enough refrigerant to make cold air, so the problem is inside the HVAC unit. Replace the motor that controls the blend air door (this is a difficult job and best left to a professional since it involves tearing apart the HVAC unit -- about an 8 to 10 hour job!).
If the compressor does not engage when you turn on the A/C, see if it will run by jumping the compressor clutch wire directly to the battery (use a fused jumper wire). If the compressor works when you jump it, and the A/C blows cold air, the system contains refrigerant and the fault is likely a bad A/C compressor clutch relay or a bad clutch cycling switch or pressure switch .
If the compressor does not engage when you jump it, the problem is a bad compressor clutch.
If the clutch engages but the compressor does not turn (the belt will start to slip and squeal), the compressor is loced up and you need a new compressor.
If the compressor clutch engages and turns the compressor, but the A/C still does not blow cold air, the system is probably low on refrigerant and needs to be recharged. If you Have an A/C gauge set, hook it up and see if the system has any pressure.
If it is out of refrigerant or is low, check for leaks, then have the A/C system vacuum purged to remove air. After the air is out, it can be recharged with the specified amount of refrigerant. It is important to get any air out as this will reduce cooling efficiency and may make the compressor noisy.
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1 Answer

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Your A/C relay may have gone bad and has disconnected the power to the A/C compressor clutch.
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Good luck and hope this helps. Keep me posted and be glad to help.

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