Question about 2003 Nissan Altima

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How may I fix the problem of an idle rpm?

The rest of the sensors work properly. It happened after the alternator and so the battery went down. It's just the rpm. Thanks

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If the filter box was removed during repairs make sure all ducts are put back together properly and all sensors in ducts are also plugged into each connector.

Posted on Nov 08, 2014

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2 Answers

Idle is rough, smoothes out around 2000 RPM, still there not as bad. Idle is below 800 RPM, not charging battery enough, checked moter mounts, mounts ok.


800 RPM is not bad and is enough to run the alternator. What you need to check is the idle air speed motor.

May 01, 2015 | 2000 Ford Windstar

1 Answer

What would be the problem when the RPM is idle?


Might be something hasn't been put back on properly. When you work on a car, you can sometimes knock something in the area you were working on. Even professionals do it from time to time.

Nov 08, 2014 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Charge at idle only


Your alternator is faulty. A properly working alternator produces 13.5 to 14.5 volts at idle and raised rpm's. The battery itself is 12 volts and a raised rpm demands more electrical power, therefore your drop.

Apr 12, 2012 | Saturn Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

When the car is driven consistently with air conditioner, daytime running lights/headlights, car stereo,e.t.c. on especially standing for long periods in stagnant traffic, the battery gradually loses power...


As to the first issue of looseing power, the charging system should be checked for proper output & a draw test on the battery. The battery should be able to sustain a high draw for a while unless it's either weak or it's not being fully recharged by the alternator.
On the second issue, the idle control sensor is the item that will bring the RPMs up to proper levels when idling, you should replaced this first before doing anything else on this system.

Apr 07, 2011 | 2001 Toyota Sienna

2 Answers

Why does the voltage drops when idleing,


Your idle speed may be too low. It is common for the Alternator to slow down with the engine RPM. You can get a free scan of your charging system at Autozone or Oreillys. You may have a lazy Regulator which is not allowing more power through.

Some cars like Ford products have a sensor which automatically increase idle speed to keep the Voltage up. In your brand you need to ask a Dealer. When your car has more equipment demanding power than the Alternator produces, the Voltage will drop.

You may want to install a new Serpetine belt and check your Tension pulley for a tight fit. If the belt is sloppy it can effect the charging system.

Feb 20, 2011 | 2002 Kia Rio

1 Answer

I have 02 toyota camry V6 car. Recently the battery was down and i need to replace the battery. i went to shop and after replacing battery the idle RPM was standing only 200 RPM. Then the mechanic who...


that is a possibility. is this a guarantee to fix? if he has done the proper diagnostics and he is guarantee the repair then this would be logical. but no fix no pay. dont let it turn into something else and something else. hope this helps

Feb 05, 2011 | Toyota Camry Cars & Trucks

2 Answers

Idle fluxuates up and down consistantly


Check the Idle Control System

Idle speed is controlled by the Idle Air Control Valve (IACV). The IACV changes the amount of air being bypassed to the intake manifold, in response to electric current controlled by the ECM. When the IACV is activated, the valve opens to maintain proper idle speed.

Symptom and Subsystems to Check:

1. Difficult to start engine, when cold--check Fast Idle Thermo Valve.

2. Fast idle out of spec, when cold:
a. Check Fast Idle Thermo Valve.
b. Check IACV.
c. Check idle adjusting screw (see Section C).

3. Rough idle:
a. Check hoses and connections.
b. Check IACV.

4. RPM too high, when warm:
a. Check IACV.
b. Check Fast Idle Thermo Valve.
c. Check hoses and connections, check Power Steering Pressure Switch Signal, and check idle adjusting screw.

5. RPM too low, when warm:
a. Idle speed is below specified rpm, with no load--check IACV and idle adjusting screw.
b. Idle speed doesn't increase after initial start up--check IACV.
c. Idle speed drops in gear (automatic transmission)--check automatic transaxle gear position switch signal.
d. Idle speed drops when AC is on--check air conditioning signal and IACV.
e. Idle speed drops when steering wheel is turned--check power steering pressure switch signal and IACV.
f. Idle speed fluctuates with electrical load--check hoses and connections, IACV, and Alternator FR Signal.

6. Frequent stalling, while warming up--check IACV and idle adjusting screw.

7. Frequent stalling, after warming up--check idle adjusting screw and IACV.

Additional Steps:

. Check Alternator FR Signal. Have alternator inspected, if idle speed fluctuates with electrical load. The FR signal communicates to the ECM how "hard" the alternator is working to meet the electrical demands of the car, including the battery and any loads which aren't monitored by the ELD. This square-wave signal varies in pulse width, according to the load on the alternator. The ECM places, approximately, 5 reference volts on the wire. The voltage regulator will drop this signal to approximately 1.2 volts, in proportion to alternator load. The ECM compares the electrical load (ELD) signal with the FR (Charging Rate) signal from the alternator and uses that information to set the idle speed and turn the alternator on and off. This helps fuel economy.

. Clean main ECM ground on thermostat housing.

. Reset ECM, by removing the 7.5 amp Back Up Fuse, in the under-hood fuse box, for 10 seconds.

. Replace PCV Valve, cleaning hose with brake cleaner spray.

. Substitute a known-good ECM. If symptom goes away, replace original ECM.

Check the ICM (Erratic RPM and PGM-FI System)

When the engine is cold, the air conditioner compressor is on, the transmission is in gear (automatic transmission only) or the alternator is charging, the ECM controls current to the Idle Air Control (IAC) Valve to maintain correct idle speed. Here's an overview of how the PGM-FI System works.

Background:

Various inputs to the ECM are TDC/CKP/CYP Sensor, MAP Sensor, ECT Sensor, IAT Sensor, TP Sensor, HO2S, VSS, BARO Sensor, EGR Valve Lift Sensor, Starter Signal, Alternator FR Signal, Air Conditioning Signal, Automatic Transmission Shift Position Signal, Battery Voltage (Ignition 1) Brake Switch Signal, PSP Switch Signal, ELD, and VTEC Pressure Switch.

Inputs are received and processed by the ECM's Fuel Injector Timing and Duration, Electronic Idle Control, Other Control Functions, Ignition Timing Control, and ECM Back-up Functions. These are the primary functional areas within the ECM.

Outputs from the ECM control Fuel Injectors, PGM-FI Main Relay (Fuel Pump), MIL (Check Engine Light), Idle Air Control (IAC) Valve, A/C Compressor Clutch Relay, Ignition Control Module (ICM), EVAP Purge Control Solenoid Valve, HO2S Heater, EGR Control Solenoid Valve, Alternator, Lock-up Solenoid Valve A/B (A/T), VTEC Solenoid Valve, and Interlock Control Unit.

Idle RPM:

Once you understand how the PGM-FI system is configured, it's easy to see how the ECM, Idle Air Control Valve, and the Ignition Control Module affect idle rpm. If the ECM's Electronic Idle Control function is not working properly, then it cannot properly control the IAC Valve. Likewise, if the ECM's Ignition Timing Control function is not operating properly, it cannot properly control the ICM (igniter). Obviously, idle rpm will also be affected if there's a problem with the IAC Valve or the ICM. As stated above, the ECM controls current to the Idle Air Control (IAC) Valve to maintain correct idle speed. This cannot happen if the IAC Valve is failing. The same situation exists if the ICM is failing. The ECM will tell the ICM to open and close the primary voltage circuit going to the coil and it won't respond properly. The result will be erratic spark plug firing and erratic rpm.

Conclusion:

If you are experiencing erratic idle rpm, try and isolate whether the problem is caused by the ICM (ignitor), IAC Valve, or the ECM. My experience has been that a failing ICM is usually responsible for the problem. Keep in mind that tachometers are connected directly to the ICM. Therefore, a fluctuating tachometer needle is often a dead giveaway. Heat and poor preventive maintenance (causing high secondary voltage to be discharge on internal distributor components) frequently causes the ICM (and coil) to fail. Besides performance, this is another reason why it's important to regularly replace spark plugs, spark plug wires, rotors, and distributor caps. Electricity will always follow the path of least resistance, even if it isn't the intended one. Our job is to ensure the intended path is the path of least resistance.

Ignitor (ICM) and Coil Replacement:

1. Disconnect negative battery cable.
2. Remove hex head machine screws, securing distributor cap to housing, using an 8 mm nut driver.
3. Move distributor cap and wires off to the side.
4. Remove machine screw securing rotor to shaft, using a #2 Phillips head screwdriver. It may be necessary to "hit" the starter once or twice, in order to rotate rotor for access to mounting screw.
5. Remove rotor and leak cover.
6. Unfasten ignitor wires, remove coil mounting screws, and set coil aside. Note: Removing coil first improves access to igniter.
7. Unfasten screws securing igniter to housing.
8. Remove ignitor from distributor and unfasten screws mounting ignitor to heat sink.
9. Coat back of new ignitor (or old igniter, if reusing) and male connectors with silicone grease. Silicone grease increases heat transfer to heat sink. Failure to apply silicone grease will cause the ignitor to quickly fail.
10. Mount ignitor to heat sink and reinstall ignitor, igniter terminal wires, coil, coil wires, leak cover, rotor, and distributor cap. Ensure female ignitor terminals fit snugly--crimp with pliers, if necessary.

AutoZone can test ICMs and coils for free. If you plan to keep the car, I would replace the ICM due the age of your Civic.

Sep 15, 2010 | 1991 Honda Civic

1 Answer

IDLE problems when I turn on the AC. Electrical power seems to fluctuates when the car is stop sign/light or other when i have the AC on. Check it the other day, started it up, disconnected the battery,...


alternator needs good battery to keep SCR in the regulator on if it is loaded it will shut down. this will happen when you try rolling window down or rear defog will load up the system. When the truck is running and battery is hooked up the vehicle should run at @700 RPM at idle and when A/C compressor is commended on it should idle up to @1000 RPM and then back down to @700 RPM when compressor cycle off again. But if the system almost stalls then the battery and alternator should be changed together, A bad battery will damage a new alternator and a bad alternator will damage a new battery.

Oct 07, 2009 | 2006 Chevrolet Trailblazer

2 Answers

Unstable idle,rpm limited to 2500, 04 sentra se-r spec v


actually it works in battery. check the coil associated with the RPM meter or if your battery charge is low recharge it. You ll get it fixed :) Please rate this!!

Aug 16, 2009 | 2003 Nissan Se R

4 Answers

2000 nissan xterra wont start but will crankover


my truck didn't do the crazy idling so much but it was running a little rough before it finnally died. it just wouldn't start back up. i changed the fuel filter i could hear the fuel pump working i finnally pulled a spark plug out and realized it wasn't getting spark. after hooking a computer module up under the dash it told me that the camshaft position sensor was out. the sensor is integrated into the distributor therefore you have to change the distributor to replace the sensor. hope this helps some, i'm actually trying to fix mine tomarrow

Dec 02, 2008 | 2000 Nissan Xterra

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