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How do I change engine oil in the block of 49 cc motor ? there is no drain plug. ive changed the jug piston and rings , due to a broke ring ? I need to change rear end oil too , it says 100cm3 oil where do I find it

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It is not a 2 stroke engine by chance? These do not have a sump or oil passages. This why oil is added to fuel.

Posted on Nov 08, 2014

  • chaz guenther
    chaz guenther Nov 09, 2014

    yes it is there is a place on the scooter where u put 2 cycle oil in. beside the magneto is a throttle cable ,that is where the oil goes in . when i took the jug , piston and head off u could see oil down inthe crank area. there is no drain plug on the bottom to drain with. ive broke it back down and am going to drain it by holding it up side down. what type of oil should i put back in place?



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I've changed my piston rings gaskets oil filter new jug n all on my 08 dvx still won't hit what could it be new plug too

Is your battery up-to-date ?Check your car engine temperature, flow of coolant if its thermostat is up-t-date.

Jul 23, 2016 | Cars & Trucks

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I have a oil in the spark plugs and its Messina maxima 2003

You either need a new piston scraper ring, or all new rings due to broken rings, or you need to get a rebore and new Pistons and rings. Or the seals on the valve stems have gone.

Or time to change the plugs and sell.

I would put a new set of plugs in the vehicle and check them in a week and then make the decision. Do you burn oil? Blue smoke and the need to top up?

Mar 14, 2016 | Cars & Trucks

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Changed piston rings but now we see oil in the air filter dont know whats the problem

Oil gets past the piston rings into the combustion chamber make sure that the piston rings are not stuck

Mar 18, 2015 | Cars & Trucks

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My spark plugs are covered in oil ,on my astra vxr,any ideas please?

If indeed all your plugs are drenched in oil when removed, it could be one of two things: Your piston oil rings have failed and oil is leaking heavily past them into the combustion chamber where your plugs are located, or you have a crack in the engine block and oil is escaping through it into all the cylinders. Either the piston rings need to be replaced, or, if it's the crack in the block, the engine must be replaced or overhauled. It's doubtful that all the piston rings would fail at the same time unless you never changed oil or ran the car with low oil.

Apr 06, 2013 | Cars & Trucks

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My 1995 Buick Regal engine has oil on the spark plugs?

have mechanic run compression test. might need rings or valve job

Sep 27, 2017 | 1990 Buick Regal

1 Answer

I just had my routine 3000 mile oil change and was informed my oil level was approximately one and one-half quarts low. There is also a faint "knocking" noise coming from the engine when I'm driving. ...

That knocking noise could be due to low oil. There could be a leak on the following places - drain plug, on the crankshaft seals, camshaft seals, valve cover gasket, engine may be burning oil (blow by) due to bad piston rings, bad, valve seals. Regularly check your engine oil level and tap off to avoid engine failure.

Aug 11, 2010 | 2004 Buick LeSabre

1 Answer

Have a daewoo 2001 legacy se overfilled the oil and car started sputtering and stalled out pulled the plugs and had oil on them and car was blowing white smoke took valve cover off and cleaned most of oil...

OK here is what happened. With the oil overfull, the connecting rod caps, which usually don't dip into the oil, started whipping the oil, creating whipped lubricant that the oil pump couldn't draw in. This more than likely resulted in the loss of lubrication to the camshaft bearings, rod and main bearings, piston rings and walls and the camshaft and rockers and valve system.

Depending on how long the engine ran, the bearings may have spun, keeping any oil from being sent to some bearings, the cylinder walls and piston rings may have worn too much to provide proper compression.

The oil pump probably suffered also.

If you ran it a long time that way with the oil light on, find yourself a remanufactured engine or a used engine & save the headache and expense of rebuilding this one.

If it was for just a few minutes, pull the plugs, put a table spoon of oil into each cylinder to lubricate & seal the piston ring to the cylinder wall for compression, change to a higher gade of oil, crank the engine to try and build oil pressure, reinstall plugs, try and start.

good luck.

Feb 21, 2010 | 2001 Daewoo Leganza

1 Answer

Oil; burning

If you changed rings and valve gaides before you fitted new rings have you check cylinder block?it mybe cylider worn out so it was to rebore engine block and put new piston with new rings.
the ather thing it hapen sometimes when you fitting piston rings, check how piston rings is it should be all piston rings defrent direction inside the piston groves.
Use original parts.

Nov 10, 2008 | 2002 Mitsubishi Galant

4 Answers

2001 Toyota Corolla, Burning Oil rapidly

Take your vehicle back to your mechanic, and have him perform a DRY, then a WET compression test. Please provide both readings back to me. In the meantime, ask him what it would cost you to him replace the piston rings. This is your problem. The 2 tests will simply verify me thinking.

Oct 01, 2008 | 2001 Toyota Corolla

3 Answers

Oil leak?

Whoa whoa ... You've said that the car takes 7 quarts of oil. That's 14 pints. Depending on which engine variant is fitted, engine oil capacity is either:
  • 5.75 litres + 0.4 litre if the oil cooler is drained
  • Turbo - 3.85 litres + 0.6 litre if the oil cooler is drained
  • These figures are for a UK 3 litre version of the 960
If you've filled the car with 7 quarts of engine oil that's almost twice as much oil as should be in the engine. Did you mean pints when you wrote quarts?

If you've filled it with 7 quarts it's overfull. Way too full. Check your oil dipstick - remove it, wipe it clean and then dip the oil level. At the bottom of the dipstick there is a flattened wider part. The oil level should not be below the bottom of this marker, and nor should it be above it. If the oil level is way above the flattened marker bar - you're overfull and will have to drain some oil out of the engine. An overfilled engine will try and blow oil out from wherever it can as the oil system will over-pressurised.

Ok .. so there's no problem with the engine compression. The crankcase isn't overfilled with oil (the crankcase is known as the oil sump in the UK). There's no oil fouling of the plugs and the car isn't burning oil, just leaking it. There's no misfires or running

If the engine isn't overfilled with oil there may be a problem with a broken/sticking piston ring or piston/cylinder. That high oil loss you mention seems severe. A problem with a piston/ring/cylinder can allow the compression to leak past the rings/piston into the engine oil sump and pressurise it. Under pressure, the oil will try and leak to atmosphere from anywhere it can.

A blue smoky exhaust is also an indication of piston/ring problems. A quick check is to start the car. If there's a cloud of blue smoke at start up which clears quickly, it's like to be worn valve guides. If, when driving the car with a warm engine there's blue smoke on acceleration - it points to a problem with rings/piston.

A quick check is to remove the spark plugs. Is there engine oil on one or more of them? An oiled up plug indicates that the engine oil is finding its way up past the rings/piston - and if oil can find its way up to a spark plug, then exhaust gasses/compressed fuel/air can find its way into the engine oil sump and pressurise it.

Another quick check is to start the engine and remove the oil dipstick. If fumes are 'chugging' out of the tube or oil is spitting out, that's another sure-fire sign that the oil sump is becoming pressurised due to a piston ring/piston/cylinder problem.

If you possess or can borrow an engine compression tester there is a further test you can do yourself to confirm whether or not there are piston/ring problems. Basically, a compression tester is just a gauge that screws into the cylinder head in place of the spark plug.

Warm the engine for 5 minutes so that the pistons expand fully in the bores.
Remove the spark plugs
Fit the compression tester into No1 cylinder and crank the engine for 10 seconds. Make a note of the compression reading on the gauge.
Do the same for each cylinder.

Here's an example of what you might find (the figures are for example only)
Cylinder Reading
1 115
2 120
3 118
4 95
5 96
6 117

Figures vary, but there should not be more than a 10% difference between the readings.
In the example above you can see that cylinders 4 and 5 have readings that are well below those of the other cylinders. This is indicating problems within those two cylinders. The lower compression could be due to a head/gasket fault or piston ring/piston problem. A split or worn exhaust valve in the head may cause low compression, a misfire and uneven running but it won't cause the engine oil sump/crankcase to pressurise. Now, some fine tuning to locate the exact problem:

Put a liberal squirt of oil into each cylinder - something like Redex, WD40 or engine oil.Put a cloth over each spark plug hole and spin the engine to get rid of the excess oil. The idea is that the oil you have squirted into the piston bores will form a 'seal' around the outside of the piston/rings.

Do the compression tests again and note the readings. If the readings go up significantly it indicates that the rings/pistons/bore has a problem. Readings that go up significantly are due to the oil forming a seal around the piston which raises the compression whilst testing. Here's an example:Cylinder Reading on 1st test 2nd test
1 115 118
2 120 121
3 118 120
4 95 110 Significant rise - more than 10%
5 96 98
6 117 119

Ok .. all this means is that cylinder 4 has compression problems due to the rings/piston/bore. The 2nd compression reading (with the oil squirted in) is higher simply because the oil formed a seal. Cylinder number 5 still has a low reading which didn't increase significantly on the 2nd 'wet' (when oil is added) test. This suggests that the problem is an exhaust valve/head gasket/head problem.

If there had been no significant increase in the reading on number 4 cylinder, this would suggest valve/gasket head problem. Low readings on adjoining cylinders (and which don't increase with the 2nd compression 'wet' oil test) would indicate a faulty head gasket between those two cylinders.

I'll continue this article ... ran out of word space

Jun 24, 2008 | 1996 Volvo 960

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