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Hi! My daelim roadwin 125 r 2008 usually runs well, but sometimes when im giving it full trottle at 7000 rpm's it start running really bad for aboute 3 seconds before it goes normal again. Is there someone who know what the problem might be?

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For one you're hitting the rev limit and its not good on your engine. You could spin a rod bearing and possibly even throw a rod

Posted on Nov 07, 2014

  • Arve Serigstad Nov 07, 2014

    The engine is rev limited at 12000 rpms. Its a motorbike. But thanks for your suggestion!



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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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SOURCE: 02 Sienna, idling issue, new battery, alternator tested good

check for vacume leaks listen for a hissing sound if you here one but cant pin point it you can use a spray bottle of gas of can of ether both very flamable so be gentle and spray around the sound when the engine revs up theres your leak thats where i would start

Posted on Mar 08, 2010

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SOURCE: while driving fine at low speed it shook and

get a trouble code from Autozone or other store for free. It sounds like a sensor problem to me. The Idle Position sensor for example.

Posted on Dec 09, 2009

Testimonial: "thanks, no sparkplug or fuel injection problems?"

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SOURCE: sluggish acceleration. High RPM, High Oil Pressure

I hope I'm wrong but I think your torque converter is failing. Sorry, Gary

Posted on Jul 27, 2010

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Hi I recently replaced a head gasket on my 98 cavalier 22L and since Ive had a really bad idling problem On startup it idles really low like its about to die and the engine shakes really bad But after...

check that you have connected all wires properly. Run fault codes to find the sensors that are affecting the engine running properly. If you have disconnected the battery the you may need to reset the CPU program with a code reader as the program may be corrupted.

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My explorer is running at very low RPM when I start it and will sometimes shut off

The throttle positioning sensor is bad and needs replaced. My 1995 F250 did the same thing and runs fine now the sensor has been replaced.

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Intermidient start with key

This is the first group of symptoms like this presented to me on this site. There are several things to look at, some quite inexpensive to fix.

The ignition key has 2 positions providing power to the ignition. The run cycle and the start cycle both send out current to the Power Relays. If the start terminal is worn, it is possible to crank the starter and not get fire or power to the needed Relays. By bumping the starter, the run cycle has a chance to engage while the motor is still turning and slowing down. You could also use wiring diagrams ( free with registration or and trace the power wire from the ignition key when it is in the start cycle.

Another possibility is a bad ignition or fuel pump relay that is coxed into working by diligently using the ignition key until it finally starts.

The third possibility is a bad EGR if equipped. What you describe can also be an air induction problem caused by a dirty or bad EGR valve. Some manufacturers do not monitor the EGR or have less sensitive sensors to tell if the EGR valve is malfunctioning. This would account for the lack of a problem Code. It would also be a part which could cause the engine to "LOAD UP" and stall while running. The EGR cycles exhaust gas back into the intake and if open at low RPM it will kill the engine.

The throttle position sensor can be bad. It is needed to complete the circuit to the ECM. Since you are relying on its base setting to make the engine idle, it is possible to wear out in one position and be fine in another.

Test equipment. Only the more expensive test equipment can bypass the onboard computer. Most handheld scanners under $5000 do not have the guts to go beyond the basics. A more powerful test instrument could help.

I hope my solution is helpful. Please advise me of the final outcome.

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Car blows white smoke at high rpm runs bad

hmmm...This kind of problem usually is due to cam shaft/valve timing issues. Sometimes, the cam shaft is not properly positioned and is not in sync with the distributor thus the exhaust valves open early releasing unburnt fuel. This will cause the engine to definitely run bad.
I suggest that you try to adjust your engine's timing first (cam and distributor) and then see the results. Also, remember that there is a limit to the rpm that an engine must do- about 6,000rpm is enough for high or max hp. Another information, a camshaft will only work best at a given rpm range so if you run your engine too low or too high, the engine will not work properly. In fact, there are special cam shafts for engines intended to run at high rpm while sacrificing lower rpm levels (the engine runs grumpy at low rpm levels).
Worst case, however, is that white smoke sometimes indicates that oil enters your combustion chamber, this will cost an expensive rebuild if such is the fact.

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Sluggish acceleration. High RPM, High Oil Pressure

I hope I'm wrong but I think your torque converter is failing. Sorry, Gary

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My 2003 suburban seems to run at a higher rpm.

Hummm, 2000 rpm does not seem high, really. But another item to look at is your FAN. The clutch fan fails and drives the fan full engauge. Sounds like a jeep...massive sounding, relating to engine RPM, but not necessarily different.

I mentiont his because a trans does not typically fail and give a few hundred RPM. Usually a slipping sensation is described....

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2 Answers

Sometimes to start you have to give it a lot of

This sounds like a cold start system fault, which is a number of things.
  1. Cold start temperature sensor not operating correctly so the cold start system won't work when the engine is cold.
  2. The idle needs to be set to the correct RPM of the engine when warm, if it is idling ok when it is warm then this wont be the problem.
  3. Spark Plugs are worn and need replacing.
Most case's its the cold start system not operating correctly and if you have a good workshop to take it too they should pick this up quite quickly. Hope this helps, let me know how you get on.

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some of that junk could be in the lines its hard to tell unless you have them blow the lines out.

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Make sure your anti-freeze is full in the radiator.. If it is low, the heater is the first to go, but you wont see signs of overheating.. This I believe is also contributing to your idle fluctuation.

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