Question about 2007 Dodge Charger SE
My 2007 dodge charger is making a noise that i've never heard before. It's making a noise like i need brake pads, but it only makes the noise when i step on the gas pedal and when i ease up off the gas pedal. Never when i step on the brake. Can somebody identify my issue please?
How would we do that ?
How does one guess at noises over the internet ?
Posted on Nov 07, 2014
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
check that the caliper slides are free and that you refiited the anti squel plates on the back of the new pads
Posted on Dec 29, 2008
Hi, here is the step by step guide you requested. its a easy read and it will help you with this replacement procedure.
Step1 Park the Caravan on a flat, level paved or concrete surface. Release the hood latch and apply the parking brake. Step2 Open the hood and **** out half of the brake fluid from the master cylinder reservoir using the turkey baster. Discard the fluid appropriately. Do not reuse it. Replace the cap on the master cylinder. Step3 Break the lug nuts loose on the left wheel first using the breaking bar and a socket. Do not remove the lug nuts or loosen them too much. Step4 Lift the Caravan using the floor jack and place the lift point under the transmission bushing. Place a jack stand under the inside of the rocker panel in the left front where the frame is boxed. Do not place the jack stand on the rocker panel as it will most likely collapse. You can leave the floor jack in place as an added safety support, but make sure to use a jack stand. Step5 Remove the lug nuts and wheel. Step6 Remove the caliper bolts with the ratchet and a socket. Gently pry the caliper off of the rotor using the screwdriver. The pads are clipped to the caliper. Step7 Remove the outboard pad first by prying it off the caliper housing with the screwdriver. Remove the inboard pad by pulling it out of the caliper piston bore. Support the caliper to the coil spring using the bungee cord. Step8 Compress the piston in using the C-clamp. Squeeze slowly and steadily to avoid damaging the caliper piston. Step9 Install the new pads starting with the inboard pad. Since the inboard and outboard pads are identifiably different, there's only one way they will fit properly. There is a slight difference in the molding of the backing plates of the pads. Refer to the old pads you removed to make sure you're applying the pads for the left side. Step10 Apply a liberal coat of silicone brake lubricant on the caliper anchor where the backing plate of the pads sit against. Step11 Reinstall the caliper over the rotor. Step12 Apply a light coat of silicone brake lubricant to the smooth area of the caliper bolts. Insert it into the caliper to lock it to the caliper anchor. Tighten the bolts properly. Step13 Replace the wheel and lug nuts, tightening the lug nuts as tight as you can using the ratchet and a socket. Lower the Caravan and retighten the lug nuts in an alternate fashion using the torque wrench set at 100 foot pounds and a socket. Step14 Repeat the procedure for the right side. Step15 Pump the foot brake pedal when you're finished with the right side until the hydraulic pressure is restored to the caliper pistons and the brake pedal feels normal. Release the parking brake. Step16 Check and adjust the brake fluid level in the master cylinder reservoir. Only add new DOT-approved brake fluid for your Caravan. Step17 Remove the wheel chock and test drive.
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Posted on Apr 18, 2009
From what you are describing it sounds like it must be a valve lifter sticking. Try putting a cup of transmission oil in your crankcase, or pick up some suitable additive from your local parts store. I wish i could hear it and give you a better idea. Maybe let them listen to it at the parts store, and they can determine if it's a lifter or not. Let me know how you make out.
Posted on May 21, 2009
Depending on your mileage, if the transmission is mounted side ways (Front wheel Drive) the upper or top, or rear mount can wear out. This causes the engine and transmission to twist binding the linkage on the transmission, However I have not see a 2007 and if it was bad the drive train should still be under warranty if it's not over 100,000 miles. The tork on the other mounts could cause this noise you are speaking of. Also they use oil filled mounts to isolate the engine pulses so when the oil leaks out the motor mount goes metal to metal. However I think the brakes not holding tight so in theory a motor mount could cause this could cause it. A way to test it is put the transmission in forward gear then reverse if it makes a clunking sound then you have some wear somewhere. If you have another person put it in forward and reverse and watch the engine you can find where the noise is coming from. However I will see if it is listed as an after market part and give you a link that you can look at and the price for each. After looking at one of the mounts this may not be your problem here is the link and the price for one of the mounts.
Posted on Aug 21, 2009
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