Question about 1999 Oldsmobile Cutlass
Took my car to the shop n had front rotors n brokepads put on they also chk my rear brakes and said they were fine when I left and drove my car some the right rear would make a scubbing sound some when I come to a stop I went bk to the shop and the man looked my rear brakes over plus drove my car and I rode with him we come bk to the shop and he looked at them again so then he drove my car without the hubcap,tells me hes not sure why its doin that he sees nothing wrong,and this guy is n the brakes n axels business he dose all my car repairs,well its been two days n sometimes the scrubbing is louder than other n sometimes it makes no noise at all,n none if I stop suddenly but coming to a slow stop it makes that scubbing sound,anyone ever hear such crazinest?
Yes, I've heard of such craziness! The noise is caused by a harmonic resonance from the vibration of the brake pad (if it has disk brakes). If you have drum brakes in the rear the noise is caused by a similar vibration but the fix is different.
To fix a rear (or front) disk brake get a little package of brake pad lubricant and apply some to the back of the noisy pad. Reassemble and your noise should disappear!
If you have rear drum brakes, you can probably get rid of the noise by driving in reverse (in a long open space) and applying the brakes while driving. This is not voodoo or hocus pokus! There is an automatic brake adjuster built into the brake that is activated by moving backward and applying the brakes. Try this a few times and it may cure your problem!
If you don't do your own repairs and have no idea what I'm talking about, try the "Backing up and applying the brakes" fix. If that doesn't work, ask someone if you have rear disk brakes and if so, take it back to the shop and ask them to put a little lubricant on the back of the pad. They should not charge you after fixing the brakes.
Good luck and happy motoring,
Posted on Nov 10, 2014
Sounds like the caliper needs to be lubricated it sticks sometimes under light use and no noise when you jam them on lube the sliders do both sides now that winter is around the corner
Posted on Nov 09, 2014
Take it back to him and have him check that the callipers are free to move on the on the mounting bolts. They do rust up and during the inspection there is probably extra pressure on one side of the disc rotor because the callipers are not allowed to centralise themselves.
Posted on Nov 07, 2014
a 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
Best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
the service is completely free and covers almost anything you can think of.(from cars to computers, handyman, and even drones)
click here to download the app (for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need.
Posted on Jan 02, 2017
That's indicative of a wheel bearing, which is why you were told to change that out. However, it's also possible that the carrier bearings in the differential (where the drive axles attach) have gone bad. That happened to me on my 300ZX several years ago, and I had to replace the diff bearings. I would have them checked out somewhere other than a dealer (you'll probably get a better price from an independent shop).
As a sidenote, to be sure it wasn't a wheel bearing, if you hear it quiet down in a turn one way but get louder in a turn the opposite way, it's likely the wheel bearing. If you turn left at speed and it gets louder, then it's the right bearing (since you're loading up that side of the car). If it gets quieter in a right turn, it's the right side (you're unloading that side of the car and not putting as much weight on it, so it doesn't drag as badly). See if you get that symptom just to be sure that the wrong side front wheel bearing wasn't changed.
Posted on Sep 01, 2008
SOURCE: no brake pressure
Your complaint states that you see no air, is there fluid coming out of the left bleeder when bleeding the brakes? If you only see a few drops dribbling out, or nothing comes out at all...This can be a very difficult problem to solve. If this vehicle is a 1992 or later, it has rear antilock brakes, and if it is an ABS system, bleeding usually requires special equipment, and procedures. But there is something you can try. This takes quite a bit of time and patience, and a little bit of preparation. First you must realize that in the case of rear ABS, each rear brake has it's own fluid source, and plumbing from the ABS unit. If the obstruction is in the ABS unit none of the steps following will solve the problem, but you'll have to perform these steps to find out! DO NOT TOUCH THE BRAKE PEDAL UNTIL I INSTRUCT YOU TO HAVE AN ASSISTANT HELP YOU! USE PROPER PROTECTIVE EQUIPMENT! (Gloves, and eye protection, and protect your skin from exposure to brake fluid!) First we must know whether the flexible brake hose on the left rear is obstructed. The easiest way is to simply replace it, or if you don't want to start with a new part, you could disconnect it from the steel brake line that runs along the frame towards the rear of the car. (you don't have to remove it from the wheel cylinder first). Place a drip pan underneath the disconnected components. Now open the hood and remove the master cylinder cap. Make sure the brake fluid level is at the maximum height in the master cylinder. Now go back and look to see if there is any fluid leaking from the steel brake line. If there is not, then this is the point where patience is a virtue. There is air in the system all the way to the ABS unit. If the ABS unit is not obstructed or defective, fluid should flow by virtue of the force of gravity through the system and out of the end of the disconnected steel line, but if there is no fluid flow, it will take several minutes to possibly up to an hour and a half. If you have the patience to leave the car alone, maybe go to lunch, or to the auto parts store to shop for a while, gravity will do the bleeding for you. Once fluid begins to leak from the line, reconnect the brake hose and open the bleeder. Allow several more minutes for the wheel cylinder to fill and fluid to bleed out of the bleeder, then close the bleeder. Now do a complete bleed procedure using an assistant to pump the brakes while you finish bleeding any remaining residual air out. If you didn't get fluid from the bleeder, after you reconnected the hose, and after you waited long enough for the wheel cylinder to fill, then the brake hose is obstructed, and you will need a replacement brake hose. Once you are sure there is fluid flow, and no obstructions between the bleeder and the ABS unit, then you shouldbe able to obtain adequate pressure. If you can not get pressure, or fluid flow, you probably need to replace the ABS unit. There are additional procedures for ABS unit bleeding, but again, special equipment is required, so professional service is recommended.
Posted on Nov 01, 2008
It seems that you have a loose wire, bad connector or perhaps the main computer itself that is causing a problem If the shop is not seeing any codes, or codes come and go, likely I'm right...but someone is going to have to actually do some intensive testing to find the real cause. You can likely get another computer from a local scrapyard far cheaper than what the dealer will charge you...as far as wiring, you need a good accurate schematic a good volt/ohmeter and lots of time to trace wiring. When checking connectors test the pin, then probe the wire going into the pin...often the problem is where a wire meets the backside of the pin, either corroding or breaking..This also applies to any modules such as the security system...what you see on the dash does not always tell you that connection to components is good. This is not a "fix, but rather, a direction to go in. (exactly what I"d need to do if I was there)
Right now, everything is suspect including fuel system, till you rule it out!!!
Posted on Jun 05, 2009
sounds like the r/f wheel brg needs replacing when you are coming to a stop and you hear the pedal making noise does it pull slightley to the left this would conferm the r/f is the problem
Posted on Jan 11, 2010
Tips for a great answer:
Apr 12, 2010 | 1999 Chevrolet Metro
Jun 15, 2009 | 1997 Chrysler Town & Country
Mar 28, 2009 | 1996 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme Coupe
Jan 04, 2009 | 1995 Honda Accord
93 people viewed this question
Usually answered in minutes!
Step 2: Please assign your manual to a product: