I have a 2002 Ford Ranger Edge 3.0 5 speed. The engine runs fine and shifts good. But when you at higher RPMs and push in the clutch, you hear a rattling noise. Only other time you can hear the rattle

ONLY use the identical item as the original equipment.( Don't waste your time looking at other products). If you use a different unit you will have significant issues.

Sounds to me like the clutch is worn and slipping. If there is chatter when engaging the clutch, it may also be a worn throwout bearing.

I have seen this problem and it is very often a problem with the engine wiring harness, where that may lie is anyones guess, look at places where the harness moves around allot.

Check all cables and linkages from the clutch pedal out. Check engine compartment for vaccume leaks.
Make sure and set the parking brake before you start inspecting the vehicle

Hello Blue, In order to ease your mind some the slave cylinder is inside the bell housing and it will not be in a clutch kit but needs to be replaced and when you have replaced the clutch assembly and slave cylinder,I recommend using DOT5 brake fluid which has a higher boiling point than DOT3 to bleed the system.

havent a clue here ,one cylinder now another missing ,only one thing comes to mind here and thats the coil pack ,check the voltage across the battery with engine running at 1500rpm and if its higher than 15.5 volts of their abouts then the alternator regulator is playing up and this would cause problems with the coil pack or the ECU ,also the radio could blow and lots of bulbs.Other that this i would need to get my greasy hands on it and give the magic hammer treatment

Sounds like it could be your EGR valve.... have the engine light scanned and that will narrow down the cause

This is not specific to a Ranger 3.0, but could apply to nearly any gasoline vehicle. 1) Start by eliminating fuel system issues. Run out all of the E-85 and fill with regular unleaded and a bottle of fuel injector cleaner. Check your fuel filter for blockages, and replace if needed. Check the pressure at the fuel injector rail, and yes you can use a tire pressure gauge, BUT WEAR EYE PROTECTION. 2) Check the vacuum lines for leaks. The easiest way to do this is take an UNLIT propane torch with the gas valve cracked slightly, and run it around the vacuum lines. If there is a leak, the engine will speed up. 3) If there are no leaks and your manifold vacuum is normal (buy a vacuum gauge, it comes in handy for diagnosing many problems and is pretty inexpensive), take it to a reputable transmission shop to have them change the filter and fluid, adjust the bands, and check the vacuum modulator. Manifold vacuum normally drops during acceleration, and if you have a vacuum leak or a defective vacuum modulator, your automatic transmission will not shift correctly. 4) If none of this works, push the piece of **** off the nearest cliff.

I say air by o2 sensor or if you have done that already tried the vaccum hoses for tiny tiny holes
good luck

I'd recommentd that you check your water pump. The bearings may have started deteriorating.