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Try pressing the lock and unlock buttons on the remote, holding for a few seconds, then trying the unlock and lock buttons to see if the alarm disarms...your description indicates the car alarm is still armed!
ck for a fuse in the under the hood fuse box that says bsm may be blown.
Also try this.....
To reset the security system remove the negative battery cable for 30 minutes, then reconnect the cable. Next, lock and unlock the doors using the remote. This will reset the alarm system and the engine will start and fobs reset.
Here are some factory notes....FYI
NOTE: If a new Smart Entrance Control Module (SECU) is installed, a new identity code must be entered and all remote controllers must be programmed. If identity code cannot be entered, repair multi-remote system. See appropriate MULTI-REMOTE CONTROL SYSTEMS article.
PROGRAMMING > PROGRAMING NEW ID CODE
NOTE: This procedure will erase all previous identity codes and render all previously programmed remote controllers inoperative (until reprogrammed). All remote controllers to be used with system must be programmed at the same time. A maximum of 4 remote controllers can be programmed. Any attempt to program more than 4 controllers will be ignored. If same identity code is entered more than once, entry is ignored even though hazard warning lights will still flash twice.
1. Close and lock all doors. Erase original identity code(s) by inserting and completely removing key from ignition switch more than 6 times within 10 seconds. Hazard warning lights should flash twice. Turn ignition switch to ACC position.
2. Push any button on new remote controller once. Hazard warning lights should flash twice, indicating identity code has been entered. If identity code cannot be entered, repair multi-remote system. See appropriate MULTI-REMOTE CONTROL SYSTEMS article.
3. For each additional remote controller to be programmed, manually release door lock and lock again by using door panel switch and repeat step 2. If no additional remote controllers are to be used, exit programming mode by unlocking and opening driver's door.
Please let me know if you need anything else to get the problem fixed. Happy mew Year!
Window fuse's and relay's may be up under driver or passenger side dash or behind glove box, under the hood and even under the seats, and finally on the ends of the dash. All passenger power windows and locks are controlled thru and get power from the master control switch on the drivers door. Could be a broken wire in the rubber boot going from the door to the body. You will have to eliminate each till you find the culprit. Check that all switches return to neutral when released. It could also be the body control module.
If the passkey is messed up, there will be a light on the dash that says security, or have a picture of a car with a lock thru it. If there is no light when the key is turned forward, then its NOT a passkey problem.
if after market yes but u maybe able to get a new remote also u may want to think bout changing the key cylinders it would be about 25-40 dollars than no lock out if its not aftermarket dealer maybe able to get u remote if after market u ave to pull whole unit out
sounds like the drivers side key switch has failed remove the interior door panel and there will be a switch attached to the back of the key lock cylinder or around there it should be two or three wires also check the door jamb wire harness where the door closes for any broken or damaged wires, use a vot meter and see if you get power or ground to the opposite side of the switch when you use the key to lock and unlock the door if nothing changes and there is power or ground! at this switch i would replace it, i don't think there is one but if the car has a passenger side key hole try to unlock the car from that side and see if you get the same problem -jeff