How to get back of motor to drop down further to get more clearance when installing trans

If it is in fact between the bellhousing and block, and not leaking down onto the outer surface of the bellhousing, its the freeze plug on the back of the block.
The engine or trans would need to be pulled to get to it.

YOU DON'T HAVE TO PULL THE WHOLE MOTOR! ALL YOU NEED TO DO IS REMOVE THE MOTOR MOUNT BOLTS, AND JACK THE MOTOR UP JUST HIGH ENOUGH TO CLEAR THE CROSSMEMBER, AND OIL PUMP!

the motor and trans must be lowered thru the bottom of the car. repair manual goes into detail . it took me 10 hours to complete with new motor install. remove all wireing harness assemblies and lable.remove cover plate on bottom of bellhouseing ,this gives access to 4 bolts connecting the torque converter . turn crankshaft pully to rotate and access all 4 bolts.remove bellhouseing bolts and pull motor from trans. almost everything under the hood has to be taken apart and disambled.get the book! radiator,exhaust,motor mounts,altranator.powersterring ,wireing harness,cv half shafts. lower the motor with a cycle lift and jack the car up, block and pull the motor and trans out to disassemble. bag and lable all bolts tag and lable all parts and wire connections. most shops charge 600. bucks to do this and its well worth the money. this is a big job

There are two versions...the easiest to work on is located on the drivers side of the bellhousing. The other version is inside the bellhousing and is part of the throwout bearing (there will be a hose connection going into the bellhousing and a bleed valve protruding from the side of the bell housing on those) This version is used on later models but I have seen it used when engine/trans swaps have been previously made. Clutch master is on the firewall on the left side of the brake master cyl.

there is an up dated sensor that you can purchase it fits on the pas side rear of engine at the trans bell housing near the top 2 13m wrench size bolts hold it on wiring harnes goes up and over motor then plugs into harness its a tight fit to get to on some engines

It should be: TY754VBAAA

It is located on the passanger side of the bellhousing. If you shine a torch down the left side of the motor at the back near the firewall where the gearbox meets the motor you shouls see a white sticker with the code on it.

Hope this helps.

Look inside the vehicle at the firewall where the clutch pedal rod goes into the master cylinder. See if there is fluid running down the inside firewall. Next look at the bottom of the bellhousing to see if fluid has been coming out of it. That will tell you if it's the master or slave cylinder. Most likely it is the slave leaking inside the transmission bellhousing.

Remove the shifter from inside, two connectors to the sensorson the trans at the firewall, remove 4 bolts holding front driveshaft to the front diff, slide rear section of front driveshaft out of the splines, remove 4 bolts holding rear driveshaft to transfer case and slide the driveshaft out of the transmission tailshaft, remove the two starter bolts ( hardest part of the job), leave the starter in the engine bay with the wires still attached, remove the clutch ARM from the transmission, remove the rear transmission mount (4 12mm bolts) support the transmission on a jack, put another jack in from of the engine to pitch the engine so the rear is sagging down slightly (this is so you have enough clearance to remove the transmission), remove the four 14 mm bellhousing bolts (remember the longer one goes onto the passenger side top) tip the tailshaft up to the floor of the Sammy and slide it to the rear as far as possible, let the front come down slowly ( it will barley rub the pressure plate but not enough to hurt anything) presto its out, replace the clutch assembly and grease throwout and transmission splines the reverse these steps. I have done 3 of these and accomplished my last one in 4 hours total. No need to remove the exhaust, transfer case or engine as others have stated on numerous write ups. You will need two 12mm combo wrenches, one 14mm combo wrench, one 3/8 drive ratchet with 12mm shortwell socket, a couple extensions for said ratchet, one small pair of pliers (to hold the clutch cable while adjusting) and a hammer to gently tap the clutch arm onto the splines.

sounds like the oil pressure sender wire is caught between the gearbox and motor it must have dropped down when they changed the gearbox if you want to fix it yourself find the wire cut it off the extend the wire and put it back on the oil sender or once you find it take it back to the shop and point it out to them its there misstake good luck and a happy new year

I just replaced my engine in my 1996 blazer myself. Body need not come off, but what an ordeal if its a 4 X 4.