Can be anything good historys help good techs diagnosing the car doesnt talk to us like you do when uou attend doctors surgery.Thats why i always told my brother whovtaught me as a young mechnic i will be the best mechanic one day the rest is history do i brag yes because i have the runs on the board plenty young mechanics have i passed my knowledge onto.Also im giving my advice freely on herevlike a lot of the real mechanics on here.
Check your spark plug gaps if they are fine go to your idle air control valve or the throttle position sensor if you can raise the rpm's in park but you can't in drive and the vehicle dies the throttle position sensors contacts are worn in that position from everyday use in park your at higher rpm's and the sensor responds to raising the rpm's but in drive the sensor is at a different position and the rpm's are lower and when you try to accelerate your sensors worn in that area and the vehicle dies but I really think your spark plugs gap is to far because once the engine is warmed up the plug gaps spread slightly from heat and if they are already close to or out of spec now the gap gets further and it can't ignite the fuel mixture and that's why the no start condition
I had the same problem. It was the fule filter. Low cost fix at your neighborhood mechanic. I had one that put almost 500000 miles on . When the engine finally quit I sold it to a guy who put a junk yard engine in it and its still running great. Don't give up on it.
Catalytic converters.
SOURCE: wont start security light stays on
My girlfriend had the same problem, so we took it to the local dealer in Costa Mesa, CA and were told she needed a new engine to the tune of 5K. We decided to take it to our local mechanic and he discovered that the “ignition control box”, which apparently has the antitheft controls too and shuts the flow of gas to the engine because it thinks its being stolen when it malfunctions, was causing the starting problem. Once, the box was replaced it worked fine. Because the IBC controls antitheft, it will need to be “reprogrammed” be someone that has access to the proper equipment or the dealer. I think the whole thing was about $800 - $900. Sure beats $5,000
Hope this helps,
B
SOURCE: 2002 Chevy Tahoe sputters and stalls out while driving.....
Fuel filter. Timing/timing chain. Idle air control valve. Idle sensor. Vacuum leak. Probably one of the above, but the filter is cheapest place to start. Change your air filter too, if you haven't for a while.
Testimonial: "Great thanks so much! This will be a place to start, more than chevy dealerships have given me! Appreciate your time :) Thanks again!"
232 views
Usually answered in minutes!
×