How do i connect a new era external 12 volts voltage regulator to my 3-wire alternator?

Incorrect alternator. There is no battery regulation working in the new one.

We have no info on this conversion

no car told exact model i350 or?, , nor year
no alternator model told. by maker. New ERA

i-series 2005 to present, 17yr span
Chevrolet Colorado
GMC Canyon
Holden Rodeo
i-Series are scarce
and my guess is why parts ,for are to. and why you cant run stock OEM alternators? no reason giving
but gee, any alternator maker that does sell aftermarket upgrade kits have you answer. but is it this ,
or is this a 120v to 240v AC generator question?
ask New era this;, it is their system.


https://www.aggpower.com/new-era-alternator-generator/

knowing the color codes can be a great help..usually in 12v reg system,from the regulator there are 6 white wire having a stripe codes,blue means neutral,green means field,black means ground to body,white means hot wired to +12v,yellow means to bat charging indicator going to instrument panel and finally red means to ignition....and always secure the regulators case to ground.

It sounds like you have done a whole lot of replacing and not much "diagnosing". Did you chech for battery voltage at the alternator? There should be battey voltage at the large Black/Orange wire that is on the B+ terminal of the alternator. This wire should have voltage all the time. If there is no battery voltage, you most likely have a burned fusible link at the starter relay area.
There should also be voltage at the "S" terminal with the ignition on. If there is no voltage, then check for voltage at the "S" terminal of the voltage regulator. If there is no voltage at the "S" terminal on the voltage regulator then check the "I" terminal on the regulator for voltage.

NOTE: The voltage on the "S" terminal should be 1/2 that of the voltage on the "I" terminal.

If there is voltage on the "I" terminal, make sure your voltage regulator is grounded properly to the fender and retest to see if it is charging the battery. If it is still not charging, disconnect the regulator connector and connect a jumper between the "A" and "F" terminals of the connector. Start the engine. The alternator should now be charging the battery at high voltage (usually over 15 volts) If it does, replace your voltage regulator. If it does not, then you need to check your wiring between the voltage regulator and the alternator.

Please also review this article:

What Else Could Be Wrong?

the voltage regulator is built internally into the alternator.

ck your alternator if you have one large white wire and two smaller dark wires you've got an internal regulator the entire alternator needs to be replaced if bad

a simple voltmeter you can still buy at radio shack will tell you in about 30 seconds

set meter for dc volts 25 volt scale place red probe on battery positive and black probe on battery negative note reading on voltmeter (11 to 12 volts) start truck/car at idle reprobe battery same as before volts should come to about 12/13 have someone give a slight throttle to engine volts should come to 13.8 volts and stay there never going over this if any volt reading was not as described Yep your voltage regulator/alternator is bad

no not normally ,the regulator is connected to the altenator itself, have you checked the wires that connect to the alternator?

good the alternator you installed be bad? if it tests good then theres a fuse or a wire thats bad, check links at starter and battery and alternator if it has them there,start there, i would first have that alternator tested.good luck. also check wiring to regulator had problems with that!!!!

First of all.. Check to see if ya have 12 volts going to the back of the alt. If so.. call your parts house and see if it has an external voltage regulator. If so, try a regulator..That was a tricky year when they had either internal and external voltage regulators. otherwise.. get a new alternator. sometimes, the volt gauge will cause a non-charge issue. You can straight wire the gauge to eliminate that.