A mechanic has told me that the bearings near the rear wheels are worn out. Where can I get these?

I may be unfamiliar with the torque settings for the rear wheel bearing of a Tata Indica with a collapsible spacer. But on a general note, the torque specifications for the rear wheel bearing of a vehicle can vary depending on the specific make and model of the car and the condition of the vehicle.
It is best to consult the factory service manual or a professional mechanic for the accurate torque specifications for your specific vehicle. The manual will have detailed information on the torque settings, and a professional mechanic will have the tools and knowledge to ensure the work is done correctly.
Please note that it is important to use a torque wrench to tighten the bolts to the specified torque to ensure the proper clamping force on the bearing and prevent damage to the bearing or other components.

A faulty steering pump is the most likely I guess. You would need to jack up the front of the vehicle, support with axle stands and get underneath and above to check, whilst someone is turning the wheel.

I had a strange thing like that on my ES330, and I told the dealership it was the right front, and it was a worn wheel bearing on the left rear, worn rear sway bar bushes and worn vertical tie rod bushings on the right rear! Scraping noise on left curves at 60 kph.

Bad wheel bearing. I do believe yours are pressed in. You can remove the spindle and take it to a shop and have them replace the bearing.

Rebuilding them consists of new U joints and maybe balanced. If it was so loose the the u joints wallowed out the keepers, Then yes, they would also need replaced. Cut off and welded on. That isn't a common problem, but I have had to replace a few. Not just on jeeps.

How many miles on your 328? My son's car was making a grinding noise and our independent mechanic told me it was the rear differential. I assumed he was correct and bought a replacement. However, before I installed it, I noticed the outer 3/4" of his passenger side rear rotor was discolored and no longer shiny. His brake caliper was grinding the rotor! It was because the hub bearing was so badly worn. I replaced the bearing and all is well.

2006 Mazda 3


Applies to 2006 Mazda Mazda3:
Available engines
4 Cylinders 2.0L MFI DOHC
4 Cylinders 2.3L MFI DOHC


Could be a number of things - you're going to end up checking the entire car.

Off the top of my head:
a) exhaust component has rusted loose (usually catalytic converter heat shield). Any loose exhaust component (hanger/muffler, etc.) will vibrate at idle.
b) glove compartment door - loose hinge
c) motor mount - rubber part of metal/rubber mount vibrates loose & falls out.
d) transmission mount - ditto.

The Maintenance manual for your car says:

Clicking noise at idle or driving
--------------------------------------------
1 Inspect Main (Crankshaft) Bearing - Excessive Bearing Clearance.
1 Inspect Rod Bearing - Incorrect Rod or Main Bearing Clearances.
2 Inspect Rocker Arm - Worn or Incorrectly Adjusted Rocker Arm(s).
3 Inspect Piston Ring Set - Worn or Broken Piston Rings.
4 Inspect Piston - Worn, Damaged, or Faulty Piston.
5 Inspect Fuel Line Assembly - Fuel Line Leaking.
6 Inspect Hose Clamp - Loose or Missing Fuel Line Clamps.

Tapping noise at idle
------------------------------
1 Inspect Valve Lifter - Insufficient Oil Supply.
2 Inspect Fan Blade - Broken, Missing, or Faulty Fan Blade(s).
3 Inspect Oil Pump Screen - Clogged Oil Pump Screen.
4 Inspect Oil Pump Drive Gear - Damaged or Faulty Oil Pump Drive Gear.
5 Inspect Exhaust Valve(s) - Burned, Worn, or Sticking Exhaust Valves.
6 Inspect Oil(Crankcase)Capacity - Lifters Need Additional Lubrication.
7 Inspect Oil Filler Cap - Oil Filler Cap Damaged or Missing.
8 Inspect Oil Pump - Damaged or Faulty Oil Pump.
9 Inspect Oil Filter - Old or Clogged Oil Filter.
10 Inspect Oil FLow Check Valve - Damaged or Faulty Oil FLow Check Valve Caused Loss of Oil Pressure.

Vibration while Accelerating
-----------------------------------------
1 Inspect CV Half-Shaft (Remanufactured) CCT - Worn or Damaged CV Half-Shaft.

vibration while braking
--------------------------------
1 Inspect Brake Rotor - Warped or Uneven Brake Rotor Surface.

Vibration while driving - entire vehicle
-----------------------------------------------------
1 Inspect Brake Rotor Specs - Warped or Uneven Brake Rotor Surface.
2 Inspect Ball Joint-Lower - Worn, Damaged, or Faulty Ball Joint.
3 Inspect Ball Joint-UPPER - Worn, Damaged, or Faulty Ball Joint.
3 Inspect Wheel Bearing-Front - Worn, Dry or Damaged Wheel Bearing.
5 Inspect Tie Rod End - Worn or Damaged Tie Rod Ends.
6 Inspect Wheel Bearing-Rear - Worn, Dry or Damaged Wheel Bearing.
7 Inspect Wheel Hub Bearing - Worn, Dry or Damaged Wheel Hub Bearing.

Vibration in rear axle area while driving
-----------------------------------------
1 Inspect U-Joint - Loose, Worn, or Damaged U-Joint.
2 Inspect Driveshaft - Bent, Loose or Unbalanced Driveshaft.
4 Inspect Differential Drive Pinion - Worn, Damaged or Broken Pinion Teeth.
4 Inspect Wheel Bearing-Rear - Worn, Dry or Damaged Wheel Bearing.
5 Inspect Pinion Bearing - Worn or Damaged Pinion Bearings or Yolk Shaft.


Vibration in steering wheel while driving
---------------------------------------------------------
1 Inspect Wheel Bearing-Rear - Worn, Dry or Damaged Wheel Bearing.

Vibration in tire/wheel area while driving
------------------------------------------
1 Inspect Wheel Bearing-Front - Incorrectly Tightened or Installed Wheel Bearing.

Vibration under vehicle while driving
---------------------------------------------------
1 Inspect U-Joint - Loose, Worn, or Damaged U-Joint.
2 Inspect Muffler - Damaged or Burned Out Muffler.

Vibration in rear wheeel area while driving
------------------------------------------------------------
1 Inspect Wheel Bearing-Rear - Worn, Dry or Damaged Wheel Bearing.

https://www.yourmechanic.com/article/symptoms-of-bad-or-failing-wheel-bearings

if it is a rear wheel bearing the driver won't hear it as much as a front wheel bearing.
If the bearing seizes at speed in the rear of the car you can damage the rear axle . I have seen the damage done when at my mechanics on someone else's car that was in for repair.
If it is a front wheel and it seizes you will crash as your car veers to one side. It takes a while for a wheel to seize but the longer you drive on a worn bearing the more risk you take of this occurring.
does the noise vary with different speeds ?
how are the tyres are they worn on the inside edges ?
how are the tyre pressures are they pumped up correctly to 32 psi ?

hiya this does sound iffy ? but b4 i comment /offer an opinion could you or your friend jack up the wheel in question that has had repair and look at how the brake disc is secured to the actual hub assy that wheel bearing is housed in ? also caliper? cracked?? is it now a new one? have never had problem renewing front or rear bearings in past using the correct tool/s a hydraulic press is the best method for removing excessive siezed components as for your friend now saying noise is from rear ? it may be pads worne or disc/s corrosion/scoured so investigate and update what you discover ? sounds like big hammer garage?

Common causes for High-pitched noise from rear wheels are:

The wheel bearing: this is not usually dangerous in the short term, but I recommend contacting a mechanic and having it fixed. To test the wheel bearing, you lock front wheels, and jack up the car rear and spin the wheel (handbrake unlocked). If bearing is worn you hear a drone. When is the bearing, often car starts vibration above 40 mph.
Noise from bearing can be continuous, intermittent, only when steering, only when hot.

The brake pads: when brake pads are worn out they start making a squealing noise, in this case the noise is only when you brake or continuous. When you jack up the car the wheel may be a little stiff, but not necessarily.When brake pads are completely gone you also hear a scratching noise when braking. Inspect your brakes immediately.

Other suspension problems: Jack up the car as suggested above, check if the wheel has a slight play on the sides. Check all of the suspension components, suspension mounting points, and steering linkage for damage. Also, check the frame rail for wrinkles. It is very important that these components be in good condition, if you notice any problem here, go immediately to a mechanic.

Try doing the simple test above, reinstalling the wheel and working the tire back and forth. This is a common test for bad ball joints and wheel bearings.

can u replace the bearing in the hub? will that fix your problem?