- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
Fan wil be controlled by a temperature sensor, if you have been driving engibe will gethot and start the fan running, as soon as you stop driving the heat does not drop so quickly so fan remains running until the temp sensor detects that the temp has dropped below the threshold. If the fan just runs even after engine itself has cooled down may be a problem with temp sensor. suggest to leave car for about 10 to 20 mins after engine is shutoff and then go back and check if fan still running
My guess is that your electric fan is NOT operating at all. Under normal conditions, just going down the highway, your cooling system will function just fine without a fan running. The air flow through the radiator is adequate to keep things cool. However, when you stop, you quickly get into an "overheat" situation. Actually, you should be able to hear your fan begin operating when your engine temperature starts climbing or your air conditioner requires the fan to do its thing. Note: If you've ever severely overheated your engine, your problems may be worse than just a fan not running, but you really do need to confirm whether your fan is operating correctly, or not. Another note: I had a vehicle with a tendency to overheat when stopped. It turned out to be a faulty (leaking) pressure cap on the cooling system.
You need to stop using it immediately before you cause some damage or more than you may already have That is just common sense. It should not overheat or be any different than it was in the past without problem
The car has to be checked over/diagnosed,tested,etc for various issues to resolve
Borrow or Rent a car until resolved
No way to guess at the problem
You should have some type of codes avail even if the check light isn't on,you need professional help to get a start on resolving
The timing belt maybe worn & jumped or the head gasket bad.
Over heating isn't usually a cheap repair unless the thermostat sticks partially closed
The RPM moves around the car is 11 years old,so it may just need a though going over
Timing Belt,O2 Sensors,Exhaust Converter,Spark Plugs and such
If you depend on a repair shop to do things & don't have the knowledge to request work done throughout the year,then you run into a lack of proactive preventative maintenance situation. Most things are simple looking back, once resolved
Your AC system is supposed to shut down if the engine is hot, as a safety device-make sure when the ac is running , the radiator fan is blowing-it may not be, caused by either a bad relay, blown fuse or a bad fan motor. Make sure your antifreeze is fully up to level, and if you haven't done it in the past 2 or 3 years, get the cooling system serviced with a new thermostat-cheap insurance, you do NOT want to overheat that aluminum engine, because if you do, it will be toast.
Just because the overflow reservior is full does not mean that the rest of the cooling system is also full. The engine itself is very low on coolant and running hot as indicated by the temperature guage showing hot and the cooling fans running continuously. You obviously have a leak in the cooling system caused by either a faulty hose or radiator which is leaking once the system pressure increases as the engine heats up.. The rubber hoses in the cooling system can go hard and start to leak where they attach to the metal piping around the engine as they get towards 10 years old. Thoroughly check all hoses including heater hoses and the smaller bypass hoses around the engine for splits or leaks. Stop engine and allow to cool, replace any defective hoses or hose clamps and then refill radiator. Restart engine with radiator cap off and idle engine with heater control on full until it reackes operating temperature while continuing to add coolant until the system is full once again. Allow the cooling fans to cycle on and off a few times to ensure there are no air locks in the system. .Hopefully you have not overheated the engine to the point where you have caused a problems with the head gasket which could allow coolant to leak into the sump. This will be indicated by the dipstick showing a milky emulsion instead of just oil on it. If the haad gasket has failed, it will necesitate removal of the haed, have it machined, and then replaced with a new gasket. Not a cheap exercise.
I would check to make sure that the cooling fans are capable of running. The fan's won't come on unless either the a/c is on [provided the a/c works of course] or the engine temperature has reached about 218 degrees. A quick fan test is to allow the car to idle in the driveway with both the a/c and defrost "off" and with transmission in Park. As it warms up the cooling fans should come on once the temp gauge is about 3/4 of the way up [give or take a little] If the fan's won't come on at this point then odds are you've got either a bad fan[s], blown fuse, or bad control relay. As for potential damage caused from the overheating: the most common problem I see is head gasket leaks that allow some of the combustion gasses to get into the cooling system which disrupts the coolant flow and causes it to overheat again from this new problem. A common symptom of a head gasket leak is an engine that will suddenly run hot [but the heater stops blowing hot air when this is happening] then the engine will again run cool nearly as quickly for a while before repeating the cycle. If the leak is big enough it will often force coolant out of the reserve tank when this is happening. If it's been driven for some time and hasn't overheated she may have gotten lucky and avoided any damage. Hope this helps a bit!
You have two fan's on your truck, 1 is a fan clutch runs with the drive belt, 2 elec fan motor, with test light and engine running at normal temp, just a little bit above 1/2 way on your temp gauge check voltage at elec. cooling fan harness if you have voltage at one of the two wire's and fan don't turn on, bad cooling fan motor, on the fan clutch after you check voltage at elec. fan motor turn engine off, with your hand spin drive belt fan if it spin's freely bad fan clutch, replace it.Also check cooling level.Hope this was very helpful
Yes, your cooling fans need to run to cool the engine and to run the A/C. Those 2 fans are beeing used to cool of the engine and the A/C condensor at the same time. The fans actually slow down and speed up depending on how hot the car is running and on A/C beeing turned on and so on. If your fans are not rinnung, check the fuses and fusable links. They are marked on the cover of the fuse box. It sais "cooling fans" chek that. That's inside the car. Under the hood there is abother fuse box with fusable links. Check those also. There is a relay too, but check the fuses first. The relays are pretty booletproof. Do a quick check. Turn the A/C on and see if the fans are running. Let me know what you find.