At Fixya.com, our trusted experts are meticulously vetted and possess extensive experience in their respective fields. Backed by a community of knowledgeable professionals, our platform ensures that the solutions provided are thoroughly researched and validated.
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
It is in the main fuse box under the hood, (Black box next to the battery). It is relay 6. A small, black, square block that should pull out. It will be a tight fit so it might come out suddenly. Try this website for a diagram of the fuse box.
the relay box in under the hood near to the battery , remove the cover flip over it has a diagram showing the position to find the relay wiper switch fuse. small cube shape can easily be removed or replace
Before we go under the hood---did you check the cables/wires leading to the fuse box---and to the appropriate fuses---to make sure they are attached, not corroded or frayed?
If so, carry on-----
There are two relay boxes attached to the fender under the hood on the passenger side---one in front of the shock housing and a narrower one beside the battery.
There should be a label and/or description on top of or under the lid indicating which relay covers what circuits or equipment. In your case, there may be more than one culprit----so check them all.
BEFORE OPENING ANY RELAY BOXES or PULLING ANY PARTS----Disconnect the negative cable from the battery and secure it so that it cannot ground out against and body or engine part.
To open the relay boxes,unhook the snap release tab on the side. DO NOT FORCE the tabs cuz they are easily broken and, if so, cannot be re-attached.
Pull each relay separately, check it then replace it before pulling the next one.
Note: You will have to pinch the snap 'release tab' (a bit of plastic not the same color as the relay itself) and probably have wiggle the relays a bit to get them out.
Check each relay thoroughly.
Even if they look 'whole', give the protruding wires a firm tug to make sure they are connected and haven't shorted out.
If good, replace each relay before pulling out the next one.
Once you find the culprit relay, take it with you when you go to the parts store so that they can match it exactly. Size and wire color matter.
Note: There is yet another relay box inside the car---attached to the firewall under the drivers side dashboard. Check those relays as well and make sure to wiggle the wires on each.
Note: In all cases, be sure to inspect the wires leading into and out of on the relay boxes themselves.
Look for corrosion (usually white powder), melted coverings and/or frayed wires. Replace as necessary
I repeat: There may be more than one broken/burnt circuit, relay or fuse so check them all.
Once remedied, re-connect the negative cable to the battery and tighten it well.
Turn your ignition key to 'Accessories' then back to 'Off' three or four times before actually starting the car---just to reset the computer(s) (if you have one) .
IT IS LOCATED UNDER THE HOOD NEAR THE BATTERY INSIDE THE BLACK FUSE BOX, THERE WILL BE A FUSE AND A RELAY IN THAT BOX.IT WILL BE MARKED ON THE COVER OF THE BLACK BOX.
A 50 AMP fuse is a main power fuse. This is not "isolated" that thing probably feeds 5 or more other circuits. You need to get the power distribution diagrams and narrow it down further by pulling the fuses (NOT RELAYS) that are fed by that fuse. Once you have it narrowed down to a single (small) fuse, then you narrow it further by checking the circuits that are fed by that fuse. You must check everything that is fed by the small fuse. The easiest way is using the power distribution diagrams to unplug all of the components (one at a time) that are powered by that fuse. Sometimes you can eliminate two or three components at a time by disconnecting a single, common connector.
Fuse #15 "BACK UP/ACC" (40 Amp) in the Underhood Fuse/Relay Box protects the circuits leading to Fuse #7 "BACKUP" (7.5 Amp) in the Underhood Fuse/Relay Box and also fuses (#5 "RADIO" (10 Amp), #6 "INTR LIGHT" (7.5 Amp), #7 "BACK UP" (7.5 Amp), #8 "not used", and #9 "FR ACC SOCKET (10 Amp) in the Driver's Fuse/Relay Box.
To further narrow down the source of your draw, pull each of these fuses one at a time.
No, that was not a "typo" There are 2 fuses marked "BACK UP" and are both 7.5 Amp and one is
in the Underhood Fuse/Relay Box and the other is in the Driver's Fuse/Relay Box. (I checked this 3 times just to make sure.)
on the left(driver's) side of the lower rad support. It's a small flat relay with a plug on the bottom and usually has a blue colored front. held on by two screws. Also, there may be more rad fan relays in the underhood fuse/relay box.
Good luck.
R
×