Question about 2002 Ford Mustang
There are a few items you should check.
This is an electrical issue - and has to do with heat.
If there is a clod or cracked solder joint on the board of any module - the heat makes the components expand - and no longer make connection.
The most likely suspects are the PCM (Powertrain Control Module) and the CCRM (Constant Control Relay Module)... but there are things to check before replacing them.
#1. Check your fuses (F23.4 20A) ( F2.2 20A) (F1.26 30A) (F1.14 30A) all fed the PCM - just because they "look" good does not mean they ARE good. If the fuse is blow or separated at the side leg of the fuse you'll never see that it is bad. Once it heats up - the same thing happens - the filament separates and no connection for current flow.
#2 check relays like the inertia fuel shutoff, PCM power relay, and Fuel Pump relay.The PCM power relay and Fuel Pump relay are a contained module - called a Constant Control Relay Module.
If all fuses and relays check out, and you have tried to read OBD codes (and dont find them) the PCM should be replaced. It does not report errors on itself. Heat also affects older PCMs the way I described above... vibrations or age cause bad solder joints. From thermal expansion - the components inside heat up and enlarge... breaking the power connection and power to your vehicle.
If you have additional questions, please use the "Continue with this expert option" so we are connected in the future.
Also... Experts on FixYa work hard in an attempt to troubleshoot problems remotely.
Rating My (or the person's that helped the most) answer is appreciated...
As after 7 days, the fee you paid is credited to the very first Expert to reply - even if it was not related to your problem or helpful to you.
If you need additional help - please use the "Continue with this Expert" option so we are connected in the future. If you need - i can provide electrical schematics that may (depending on your skillset) help you to do the electrical troubleshooting.
Thanks for using FixYA!!
Posted on Jul 04, 2009
Get the IDLE AIR CONTROL VALVE (IAC), try do a clean if that doesnt work.
Replace it. that should solve you problem.
Posted on Jul 04, 2009
These are certain things to check for--
1. The stall is likely caused by either a problem in the electrical system or in the fuel system. Your engine stops running because it is not igniting gas in the cylinders, this occurs either because there isn't gas to ignite, or because it lacks the electrical charge to ignite it.
2. Drive the car up and down steep hills. Does this change the performance of the engine, or cause it to stall? This might indicate a clogged fuel filter. Replacing the fuel filter is relatively cheap and easy once you find out where it's located.
3. Does the car idle roughly and stall when at idle? If your car has a distributor, you may need to adjust the timing. With the right tools and know how, this is an easy and free task. If your vehicle has fuel injection, you can check the injector by using a screw driver or mechanics scope. The injectors will make a clicking/snapping sound if working. No sound would indicate a bad injector available at most DIY auto parts stores. Also check the ICM, idle control motor that controls the air mixture.
4. If your car has a distributor, you might consider changing the cap, rotor, wires and plugs. This is effectively a tune up. This can usually be done even by a relative novice to car repair, and take a couple of hours with the right tools. It seems counterintuitive, but even the wires and distributor decay over time, and transmit less electricity. This tune up may solve your stalling problem -- even if not, your car should run better and get better mileage.
5. If your car diesels when you turn off the ignition, it often signals the need to replace the spark plugs. Dieseling describes the situation where you turn off the key, yet the car continues to run for a few seconds or longer, eventually sputtering to a stop.
6. In rare cases, your car may stall due to what is commonly called a "vapor lock". It is actually a vacuum in the fuel line that causes fuel to eventually stop reaching the engine. Try opening your gas cap. If you hear a "whooshing" sound, like when you open a can of coffee, it's vapor lock. Now try starting the car. It should work after a couple tries. This is usually found only in older cars. If you have it, this will probably happen again, so your fuel line should be checked for blockage. A cheap fix is to drill a small hole in your gas cap to allow air in and prevent the vacuum from forming, but it should not be left this way.
Please do accept this solution and revert for further assistance.
Posted on Jul 04, 2009
Spark Plug Wires. Insulating rubber can begin to breakdown around 6
years, allowing moisture to seep into microscopic cracks in the rubber
and provide a leak path for the current, prior to reaching the plugs.
Electricity finds the shortest path to ground and moisture can allow
secondary or high tension voltage to discharge somewhere besides the
plugs. It's a good idea to clean and spray spark plug wires and boots
with silicone, which is a dielectric and will also help seal and
protect the rubber from ozone. Problems involving old wires normally
show up in wet or humid weather.
Here's how to diagnose problems. On a dry day, warm engine up to normal operating temperature and spray spark plug wires with water from a spray bottle. Note any changes in engine rpm. If idle speed drops, the wires are bad. On a wet day, in which the car won't start or starts hard, dry the wires with a paper towel and spray with WD-40, which displaces moisture. If the car starts, the wires are bad and should be replaced.
. Distributor Cap. Moisture can develop inside the distributor cap. Make sure to use a ventilated cap with a good O-ring. It's important for the O-ring to seal properly between the cap and housing. Coat the O-ring with silicone grease. If moisture has developed, dry the inside of the cap with a paper towel and spray with WD-40, wiping off the excess.
. Dielectric Compound. An excellent product to have on hand is Motorcraft Silicone Brake Caliper Grease and Dielectric Compound (XG-3-A). It's available at your local Ford or Lincoln/Mercury dealer. It's amazing the number of applications this product can be used for; e.g., lubricating O-rings, rubber gaskets, disk brake caliper pins, plus using it as a dielectric compound for weatherizing battery and starter terminals and cables, main grounds, main ECM ground, ECM connectors, igniters, coils, spark plug connectors, coating spark plug porcelein, and tail and brake lights. Obviously, this product helps prevent wet starting problems in seemingly small, but significant, ways. Attention to detail makes a big difference when operating in wet, humid conditions--especially around salt air.
Posted on Jul 04, 2009
a 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
the service is completely free and covers almost anything you can think of (from cars to computers, handyman, and even drones).
click here to download the app (for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need.
Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Tips for a great answer:
May 17, 2017 | Ford Cars & Trucks
May 25, 2014 | 1995 Ford Mustang GT
Apr 23, 2014 | 2007 Ford Mustang GT California Special...
Jul 01, 2012 | 2001 Ford Mustang
Jul 01, 2012 | 2001 Ford Mustang GT
Jun 14, 2010 | 2002 Ford Mustang
Dec 22, 2009 | 1998 Ford Mustang
Jul 17, 2009 | 1995 Ford Mustang
107 people viewed this question
Usually answered in minutes!
Step 2: Please assign your manual to a product: