Have a brand new TH350 with a V-6 torques converter (1800-2000 stall?) that kills the engine every time I put it in gear. I had an Edelbrock 600cfm on the engine before and was able to get it in gear. Is this the problem? Is it also possible that I may have too much fluid in the trans - would that cause this?
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Re: 383 Stoker Chevy dies when I put it in gear
That converter should make stalling less of an issue, not more. (stall speed is higher than stock) Make sure that you have the cam degreed in properly, that you have the timing set properly (I'd use 8-12 degrees to begin) and make sure that you have no vacuum leaks. With a stock converter, you shouldn't use any cam with more than 220 degrees duration...With the higher stall converter, you may get a few more degrees leeway. Also, the carb is too small for the application...should have at least a 750 dbl pumper or larger on there depending largely upon the car weight, gearing and what you have as far as intake and exhaust. (header diameter, length and design)...This should have been all figured out on paper before spending a dime for parts...Biggest mistake I see is people putting "mis-matched" parts together and expecting it to work (everything needs to compliment everything else)
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Dec 30, 2012 - Uploaded by Bullshitkorner
The most important part when doing timing gears on a engine is ... Doing this inside the engine bay will be a bit of a pain in the axx but it is doable for sure. ... How to build a Chevy 383 Part 3: How To Install a Cam & Timing ...
nice engine get rid of the choke all together you dont need it its just to choke the engine for cold starting i would get a 725 cfm without choke for it or turn it over to injection tbi or port. do you have an electric fuel pump you will want one when doing without the choke
You need to contact the cam manufacturer to get those numbers. If you need to get it fired up you could set the intakes at .016 and exhausts at .018 to begin with but without knowing what cam, that's only a ball park number. Numbers also depend on if you are running iron or aluminum heads as the expansion rates are different. After setting the lash, rotate the engine by hand and check the valve springs for any sign of binding. Also check to make sure the push rods have adequate clearance and aren't rubbing on the through holes in the heads.
You did not specify 4.6,8 cylinder. Anyway all the firing orders are available just by entering '87 T-Bird into the search engine. I also have a 1987 Bird that was originally a V-6 auto and I changed to a 351W stroker that has 398 c.i. and converted the block to a roller cam with GT40 heads roller rockers Ford Racing b-303 cam and a polished aluminum dual plane high-rise intake and 700 cfm Holley. Net is 410 H.P. feeding in to a world class t-5 and 373 gears in a completely rebuilt 8.8 rear end. I swoped the front K member for one out of an '89 Mustang so I could use energy suspension motor mounts instead of those weak oil filled biscuit mounts. I retainined the mechanical fuel pump front cover and eliminated the in tank pump and replaced it with a dip tube. Have lots of 87 bird parts I want to get rid of. Like a turbo coupe hood can't use it because of air cleaner bucket clearance so I got a 3" cowl induction hood from Champion Fiberglass.com. Gosh I do run on but as you can tell I do Love my Bird. I need a V-8 driveshaft. Got any ideas. E-mail at email@example.com
I would guess you would be very close to the 1 horsepower per cubic inch ball park with very comparative torque figures, but...so much depends on how well the fuel mixture and ignition timing is set up. The port and polish work is also very important, bigger isn't always better, it's the shape that matters. Smooth ports actually flow worse than ports with an even cast surface. It's the protrusions and transitions that matter the most, not the surface. On the dyno, at the rear wheels, I say about 290 hp and 300 torque with good gas and the timing optimized. This may sound weak, but it is an impressive real world repeatable attainable goal in my opinion. Peak numbers at the crank would be far higher, but driveline loss is huge, and so subjective because of tires, trannys and gears.
you could bring it up on tdc on comp stroke and make your own mark on crank pulley and block then at least you know where tdc is and google some 383's that have close to same equip as you and see what degree they are running or just play with it and see how it runs .