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1990 drivetrain manual (how to change cv joints)

Looking for 1990 legacy gt turbo manuals/handbooks anyone got one?

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6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: legacy gt 92 single turbo clutch adjustment

Only clutch adjustment is at the pedal as they are hydraulic. Clutch may be worn, cheers

Posted on Aug 01, 2008

emissionwiz
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SOURCE: Does anyone have a diagram of 1994 F150 manual wheel hub

Are both sides apart? Don't have any diagram to give you, go to Ford and ask for the exploded parts diagram, it shows the parts in order, they will usually print the page for you no charge, it is good business. I am sorry can't be more help, call if you like 925-459-0571

Posted on Aug 03, 2008

jeffk14
  • 16 Answers

SOURCE: i need to change a cv joint on a 2005 cavalier

If it were me, I'd just change out the half shaft like THIS.

On the other hand, if you want to rebuild the CV joint, go HERE.

Posted on Nov 21, 2008

Jay_from_Ma
  • 99 Answers

SOURCE: cv joint for a 1992 subaru legacy

Ok here's a couple helpfuls before i start if you have PB Blaster, that works great on spindle bolts. Another thing you will need is a long pry bar (maybe a crowbar if you had to) with a flat tapered end. You will need to remove your tire, spray the PB Blaster on the axle nut, and the 2 spindle bolts going through the strut.remove the axle nut, and the 2 spindle bolts, and seperate the strut from the spindle. Then swing the spindle and push down on it as you remove the axle spline from the hub. Once you do that, check the transmission side of the axle, to see if it has a "doul roll pin" that you need to tap out with a hammer and punch, but it may be the simple locking ring internaly at the end of the splined shaft. Then all you do is pry it back, make sure you have a very firm place to use for leverage, and give it a hard shove and it should pop right out. or you may need to repeat the prying step a few times. When installing the new axle, make sure it's snapped in completely on the transmission side so you don't damage it. Then all you need to do is reassemble it all.
Also when doing this, make sure you support the car by the body, behind the front wheel under the fender/door area. you will need to let the lower controal arm hang to do this.
Hope that does it for you,
Good luck!

Posted on Dec 14, 2008

  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: changing the cv joints in 89 honda crx

No you do not need to remove the motor. You will need to remove the driveshaft from the gearbox (driver side) so you may need to drain the gearbox oil. Passenger side has an intermediate shaft and the drive shaft can be split without removing from the gearbox.

One the shaft is off remove the outer boot and nock the old CV joint off with a hammer and somthing to take the impact without damaging the joint (incase its re-useable). I used the rubber end of a screwdriver on the joint and hit the metal end of the driver with a hammer.

If the CV joint boot you have recieved is not the strechy type you will need to slide it onto the shaft prior to installing the new joint.


To install the new joint can be a chew. There is a circlip seated in a groove on the outer splines of the driveshaft. This clip is slightly larger than the groove it sits in must be "negotiated" into the groove while you slide the new cv joint over (Use a flathead screwdriver to prize the circlip in as you push the new CV joint onto the shaft.) Once you get this right the CV joint will slide down and the circlip will make an audiable click and pop out of the groove on the inside of the joint holding the join in place.

Pack the joint with the grease provided. Slide the boot over and fasten the boot in place with the metal straps and put your car back together.

Beware of new Circlips - my old one was mishapen so I used the new one provided and it was massive in comparison. It took me and a friend a good hour and a half just to get the new CV joint over the circlip - patience is a virtue :D

Incase you can get the shafts out....

Best way is to split the bottom ball joint and suspension wishbone. I'm not a massive fan of this as bottom ball joints have caused me too many issues. I split the tom ball joint and the tracking rod end to give enough movement to get the driveshafts out.

Also never pull on the driveshaft its self as this can pull apart the inner joint inside its boot which is a real faff on to get back together (trust me). Use a screwdriver or small crow bar to prize the shaft out at the gearbox end.



Posted on Feb 24, 2009

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50,000 mile service


48,000 miles or 48 months
Maintenance Service Schedule 2007 dodge
Change engine oil and engine oil filter
Rotate tires
Lubricate drivetrain / steering / suspension
grease fittings (if equipped)-except Powerwagon
Lubricate front drive shaft fitting
(2500 / 3500, 4X4 & Powewagon)
Lubricate tie rod end links - Powerwagon
Check automatic transmission fluid level
Check manual transmission fluid level
Check the coolant level, hoses and clamps
Inspect exhaust system
Inspect brake hoses and brake linings
Inspect the CV joints/U-joints (if equipped) and
front suspension components
Check spare tire for proper pressure & correct
stowage
Lubricate outer tie rod ends 2500/3500 4X4

51,000 miles or 51 months
Maintenance Service Schedule
Change engine oil and engine oil filter
Lubricate drivetrain / steering / suspension
grease fittings (if equipped)-except Powerwagon
Lubricate front drive shaft fitting
(2500/3500, 4X4 & Powerwagon)
Lubricate tie rod end links - Powerwagon
Check automatic transmission fluid level
Check manual transmission fluid level
Check the coolant level, hoses and clamps
Inspect exhaust system
Inspect brake hoses
Inspect the CV joints/U-joints (if equipped) and
front suspension components

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Have you already removed the axle from the car?

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