Question about Subaru Legacy
Looking for 1990 legacy gt turbo manuals/handbooks anyone got one?
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Are both sides apart? Don't have any diagram to give you, go to Ford and ask for the exploded parts diagram, it shows the parts in order, they will usually print the page for you no charge, it is good business. I am sorry can't be more help, call if you like 925-459-0571
Posted on Aug 03, 2008
Ok here's a couple helpfuls before i start if you have PB Blaster, that works great on spindle bolts. Another thing you will need is a long pry bar (maybe a crowbar if you had to) with a flat tapered end. You will need to remove your tire, spray the PB Blaster on the axle nut, and the 2 spindle bolts going through the strut.remove the axle nut, and the 2 spindle bolts, and seperate the strut from the spindle. Then swing the spindle and push down on it as you remove the axle spline from the hub. Once you do that, check the transmission side of the axle, to see if it has a "doul roll pin" that you need to tap out with a hammer and punch, but it may be the simple locking ring internaly at the end of the splined shaft. Then all you do is pry it back, make sure you have a very firm place to use for leverage, and give it a hard shove and it should pop right out. or you may need to repeat the prying step a few times. When installing the new axle, make sure it's snapped in completely on the transmission side so you don't damage it. Then all you need to do is reassemble it all.
Also when doing this, make sure you support the car by the body, behind the front wheel under the fender/door area. you will need to let the lower controal arm hang to do this.
Hope that does it for you,
Posted on Dec 14, 2008
No you do not need to remove the motor. You will need to remove the driveshaft from the gearbox (driver side) so you may need to drain the gearbox oil. Passenger side has an intermediate shaft and the drive shaft can be split without removing from the gearbox.
One the shaft is off remove the outer boot and nock the old CV joint off with a hammer and somthing to take the impact without damaging the joint (incase its re-useable). I used the rubber end of a screwdriver on the joint and hit the metal end of the driver with a hammer.
If the CV joint boot you have recieved is not the strechy type you will need to slide it onto the shaft prior to installing the new joint.
To install the new joint can be a chew. There is a circlip seated in a groove on the outer splines of the driveshaft. This clip is slightly larger than the groove it sits in must be "negotiated" into the groove while you slide the new cv joint over (Use a flathead screwdriver to prize the circlip in as you push the new CV joint onto the shaft.) Once you get this right the CV joint will slide down and the circlip will make an audiable click and pop out of the groove on the inside of the joint holding the join in place.
Pack the joint with the grease provided. Slide the boot over and fasten the boot in place with the metal straps and put your car back together.
Beware of new Circlips - my old one was mishapen so I used the new one provided and it was massive in comparison. It took me and a friend a good hour and a half just to get the new CV joint over the circlip - patience is a virtue :D
Incase you can get the shafts out....
Best way is to split the bottom ball joint and suspension wishbone. I'm not a massive fan of this as bottom ball joints have caused me too many issues. I split the tom ball joint and the tracking rod end to give enough movement to get the driveshafts out.
Also never pull on the driveshaft its self as this can pull apart the inner joint inside its boot which is a real faff on to get back together (trust me). Use a screwdriver or small crow bar to prize the shaft out at the gearbox end.
Posted on Feb 24, 2009
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