Question about 1996 GMC Sierra

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Need help removing driver side valve cover there is a metal mount that is holding a pulley at the front of the vavle cover toward the front of the truck and has a lip that catches and keeps me from removing it

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Your going to have to remove that mount, I believe it's the A/C mount and power steering mount that is connected to the engine block as one unit. Sorry for the bad news. you don't have to remove it, just loosen the bolts to move the mount forward far enough to so you can clear the Valve cover lip. Good luck and take you time. 

Posted on Jul 03, 2009

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2 Answers

Leaking oil on right side of motor.


The crankshaft oils seals are known to leak after approx 100,000 miles. The Harmonic Balancer (fan belt pulley) end of the engine will have lots of oil and road grit around the oil pan, air conditioning compressor, power steering pump and other area in the engine bay due to wind spread. This seal can be replace without removing the engine. Remove the harmonic balancer bolt and use a pulley puller. If the seal mating surface is grooved replace the balancer too or the new seal will fail soon.

The transmission "bell housing" will weep oil and or trans fluid if the rear crankshaft seal or the transmission seal develops a leak. This seal is much larger than the front seal so it lasts longer and need replacing less often. The transmission will need to be removed from the car to reach these seals.

The oil pan is sealed with silicone engine sealant and will dry out and leak also. Sometimes the leak looks like it is the front or rear seal (pulley or transmission end of engine) but it may be the oil pan leaking and dripping into the pressure plate inspection plate or the pulley. The oil pan can be removed and resealed without removing the engine or transmission but it is a little tricky. Dropping the engine's under brace and exhaust pipe is recommended. Additional engine/transmission support is needed to do that.

While you are under the car look near the oil filter. Above and forward (toward the fan belt is forward) and see if there is oil dripping from the oil pressure sending unit wire. It will leak into the electrical connector. Squeeze it and see if oil seeps out. If so replace the sending unit. It looks kind of like a spark plug screwed into the block.

Near the oil filter you will see the power steering pump mounted to the side of the pulley end of the engine and it is over the right CV drive axle and has several hoses connected. One larger hose is a none pressure hose that gravity feeds the pump from the fluid reservoir mounted above it on the passenger side wheel well in the engine bay. This hose eventually leaks and drips power steering fluid everywhere! It is a molded hose from the dealer parts dept. and relatively easy to replace. Messy but do-able.



Now the top side of the engine. The valve cover has a rubber gasket that shrinks over time in that hot engine bay. Take a Phillips head screw driver is see how loose the screws holding it are. Really loose hu? You can tighten them but you should replace it because it shrunk and that makes the screws loose.

You will need some silicone engine sealant each side of the distributor bridge at the driver's side of the cover. Get a manual to make sure you tighten those screws in the correct order.



Distributor "O"ring seal can leak. Two 12MM bolts to remove it and put a new "O"ring on and you are set. Mark the Distributor's position to the bridge bracket BEFORE you loosen those screws. Line it back up to the marks so you don't mess up the timing and reset the timing after is even better.

Jun 26, 2011 | 1996 Nissan Sentra

1 Answer

Where are the timing marks for a peugeot 1.9 td 306


Hi

Hope this is helpful, if you need more info get back to me.


1, park car, handbrake on
2, loosen drivers side front wheel bolts,
3, crawl under car use 22mm socket and breaker bar to loosen the crankshaft pulley bolt, it'll probably be quite tight, once undone nip it up again not to tight,
4, open bonnet,
5, jack drivers side of car up, put on axle stand
6, remove wheel
7, loosen and remove intercooler bolts, then intercooler
8, find 6mm allen key
9, behind the starter motor there is a hole in the gearbox housing, put the allen key in it, (may be easier to undo and remove the 3 starter motor bolts)
10, get a 22mm socket put it on the crankshaft pulley bolt, turn the crankshaft bolt clockwise whilst at the same time pushing the allen key into the hole (easier with an assistant but can be done solo) keep turning until the allen key drops into the hole(you'll understand when you do it, may have to turn the engine for quite some time reasonably slowly),
11, thats the engine now on it's timing marks,
12, now put a trolley jack and block of wood under the sump and jack it up until it takes the weight of the engine,
13, remove the left hand side engine mount, basically move the fuel primer to one side, remove the rubber bung if there, then carefully undo the 4 5/8 size bolts and remove the top half of the mount (careful engine doesn't suddenly slip of jack and trap your hand),
14, now remove the 10mm bolts holding the front cambelt cover on, then do the same for the rear cover, except there is one bolt at the back of the cover which is 11mm,
15, now looking at both of the exposed pulleys you will 2 timing holes with a threaded insert behind, on the cam pulley it's at about 4 o clock and i think 2 o clock on the fuel pump, now find the 2 short bolts from the intercooler, they are the right size to fit in the timing holes,
16, now under the arch, remove the crankshaft pulley bolt and pull of the pulley,
17, now remove the lower cambelt cover, all 10mm bolts,
18, now look at the new belt tensioner and you'll see a square hole in it, find the same hole on the car, a short 3/8 socket extension will fit in there and you can then use a ratchet to apply or release the tension,
19, undo but don't remove the two bolts holding the tensioner, now use your ratchet to push the tensioner towards the windowscreen, whilst holding it there use your other hand to release the belt from behind the tensioner,
20, with the belt now loose remove it from round the rest of the components,
21, now replace the waterpump,
22, now replace both the tensioner and idler pulley, to do this you'll need to remove the rest of the metal engine mount, the bolts are quite obvious,
23, replace the belt in the same manner you removed it,
to tension the new belt pull the ratchet towards you then tighten the tensioner bolts at the same time,
24, with the tensioner tightened push the belt in the middle between the two pulleys you should have about half an inch of deflection if correct (check the old belt before removing to give you an idea),
25, now remove the two timing pins in the pulleys and the allen key,
screw the crankshaft pulley bolt into it's hole (leave the pulley off) if you keep screwing it in then the engine will turnover,
26, turn the engine over by hand at least 8 times, then put the timing pins back in as you did at the start, if you've done it all right it'll turn over with no issues
27, recheck the tension again,
28, if alls well then refit the lower cambelt cover,
29, refit the crankshaft pulley,
30, refit everything you've removed, torque all required bolts correctly (except crankshaft pulley which is done last)
31, remove the allen key (2 intercooler bolts will have already been done when fitting the covers and intercooler,
32, turn the engine over again by hand to check there's no rubbing on the cam covers or any other issues,
33, if alls well then top up the engine coolant as you'll have lost alot when doing the waterpump, bleed it properly,
34, put the road wheel back on, lower the car to the ground then torque up the crankshaft pulley bolt,
35, job done start her up then tidy up

Regards

Dan

Dec 29, 2010 | 1991 Peugeot 405

2 Answers

Valve cover is leaking oil on my 2000 1.9 TDI Passat. Have changed the gasket but still leaking badly. Have been told to change whole cover but VW want £120,00 Any ideas?


will try to help.if it's only the valve cover leaking,i'm guessing they sold you the rubber one that says ne rtv sealant needed. take your back off, try not to break the rubber seal when removing!clean the top of head where gasket goes. clean the valve cover really good!clean the grooves out that the gasket slides into. buy some blue trv glue, apply a thin coat to top of head, let it setup while you apply another thin coat to valve cover, let set 10mins. apply gasket to valve cover making sure to push the gasket into the grooves on valve cover. don't worry about neatness. let the valve cover set on a hard surface with the gasket against the hard flat surface[such as a garage floor,or clean driveway] after10 more minutes install the valve cover,make sure and take your time. place valve cover onto motor,than hand start each bolt to insure thay are going into the prope bolt holes. after you have each bolt hand started, start at center of valve cover snugging the bolts down to motor. do not crank down or apply excessive force when tightening those bolts. you should see some of that blue rtv glue coming out around the valve cover when applying torque to the valve cover bolts. only secure them snug at first. let car set for 15mins. start car and look for leaks around the cover, do not over tighten those bolts but you may need to look for a leak, go to bolt closest to leak and turn it 1/4 at a time until leak stops. but if you do this step by step, you'll not have a leak issue. you may have pinched the gasket when you replaced it. hope this helps and thank you for choosing fixya.com

Dec 27, 2010 | Volkswagen Passat Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Cant remove front valve cover


Removal of pulley is usually the main problem... a special tool is used for this. and another special tool is used to replace it. Once removed the valve cover will rotate slightly toward windshield and slide toward drivers side of engine. A power stearing tool can be used to remove the pulley and a bolt with a stack of washers can be used to install the pulley. Good luck.

Dec 21, 2010 | 2001 Cadillac DeVille

1 Answer

I need a step by step outline on how to change valve cover gaskets on a v6 1988 bronco xlt


First off you need to disconnect the battery. then you will need to take the plug wires off be sure to number them per cylinder. NOTE on the passenger side you have cylinder starting from the front of the engine 1-2-3 3 being at the back of the engine. on drivers side you have 4-5-6 6 being at the back of the engine. firing order is clockwise- 1-4-2-5-3-6.. then you will have vacuum lines that have to come off so you would need to mark those as well as to where they go, you can use masking tape and a fine point black marker. You must take out the altenator for better clearance on the passenger side and you may have to loosen the distributor to have clearance because of the ignition module if it is in the way. most hoses and fuel lines can be lifted up with a bungie cord and connected to the hood for getting those out of the way. the biggest pain is the wiring harness for the engine that runs through the pentium you can wiggle it enough to bungie it up out of the way. you may also find that you have to remove the heater hoses also since that will give you more clearance on the passenger side. the bolts are a 10 mm they also should have a spreader on them that you must look for under the bolt very important to put these back on. carefully lift and remove the vavle covers. clean all gasket and material off of the engine and on the vavle covers you want them clean enough to eat off of.. check vavle covers where the bolts attach to see if the vavle cover is straight if not then use a board under the vavle cover lip to tap the holes back down from the underneath side to get them straight. once all this is done then you need to get i suggest the cork felpro gaskets and some black sealant for valve covers. once the vavle covers are clean and ready for install then coat the valve cover where the gasket goes with sealant and let it setup- very important. then coat the gasket on one side and put it on the valve cover the valve covers have cutouts to where the tabs on the gaskests go then install on the valve cover. then coat the gasket again and let it setup for awhile very important. then reinstall the valve covers using a criscross pattern staring from the center out then tighten all bolts the same . very important do not over tighten the bolts just snug them up otherwise it will leak-reason the valve covers will warp by the holes.. and let the vehicle sit for about 12 hrs to make sure the silicone is set up.. it is a good weekend project did my fathers took about 2 days sat-sun but never leaked since..

Nov 07, 2010 | 1988 Ford Bronco II

1 Answer

Head gasket got bent and I have replaced it . Now the problem I'm facing is how to set the crank shaft and the comshaft timing. I need the procedure for engine timing


Timing Chain & Gears Removal & Installation To Remove:
NOTE: Keep the cam chain away from magnetic fields.
Crankshaft set at TDC marks hnda_trk_crv_crank_tdc_marks.gif

  1. Turn the crankshaft pulley so its Top Dead Center (TDC) mark (1) lines up with the pointer (2).
  2. Raise and support the vehicle.
  3. Remove the front tires/wheels. Front undercar splash shield hnda_trk_crv_frt_under_splsh_shld.gif

  4. Remove the front undercar splash shield.
  5. Remove the drive belt.
  6. Remove the cylinder head cover (See section on Valve Cover).
  7. Remove the crankshaft pulley (See section on Crankshaft Damper). CKP sensor and VTC solenoid electrical connectors hnda_trk_crv_ckp_vtc_ele_conn.gif

  8. Disconnect the Crankshaft Position (CKP) sensor connector (1) and Variable Valve Timing Control (VTC) oil control solenoid valve connector (2).
  9. Remove the VTC oil control solenoid valve (See section on VTC Solenoid Valve).
  10. Support the engine with a jack and wood block under the oil pan. Ground cable and upper bracket removal hnda_trk_crv_grnd_cbl_uppr_brckt_rem.gif

  11. Remove the ground cable (1), and remove the upper bracket (2). Side engine mount bracket removal hnda_trk_crv_side_eng_mount_brckt_rem.gif

  12. Remove the side engine mount bracket. Timing chain cover removal hnda_trk_crv_timng_chain_cov_rem.gif

  13. Remove the timing chain cover bolts both from the front to the block and from the bottom to the oil pan.
  14. Remove the timing chain cover.
  15. Loosely install the crankshaft pulley. Compress the timing chain auto-tensioner hnda_trk_crv_compr_tim_chain_auto_tensnr.gif

  16. Turn the crankshaft counterclockwise to compress the auto-tensioner. Lock the timing chain auto-tensioner hnda_trk_crv_lock_tim_chain_auto_tensnr.gif

  17. Align the holes on the lock (1) and the auto tensioner (2), and then insert a 0.06 inch (1.5 mm) diameter pin (3) into the holes.
  18. Turn the crankshaft clockwise to secure the pin. Removal of the timing chain auto-tensioner hnda_trk_crv_rem_tim_chain_auto_tensnr.gif

  19. Remove the auto-tensioner. Removal of the timing chain guide B hnda_trk_crv_rem_tim_chain_guide.gif

  20. Remove the cam chain guide B. Removal of the timing chain guide A hnda_trk_crv_rem_tim_chain_guidea.gif

  21. Remove the cam chain guide A (1) and tensioner arm (2).
  22. Remove the cam chain.
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Oct 11, 2010 | 2002 Honda CR-V

1 Answer

Where is the crankshaft position sensor?


The crankshaft position sensor is located at right hand side of rear eng block by bell housing. Its easy to see by removing top eng cover look down thru the gap between intake manifold ports. The sensor is on the timing cover by the crankshaft. and is only $20 bucks. And for the crank pulley.The crank pulley on your Altima is on the passenger side. Jack up the car and remove the passenger side tire and inner fenderwell and you will see it.
Remove the (4) allen head bolts that hold the plastic engine cover. Remove the air tube that connects the throttle chamber to air filter box. Pull off the valve cover breather hose with the air tube. Now place a drop light under the two rubber heater hoses (at the firewall on the drivers hand side), shining the light forward towards the back side of the block (below the intake runners). To see the crankshaft sensor and connector, look between the valve cover and the throttle chambers (intake runners) on the drivers side, look straight down toward the ground… look for the sensor with a black wire connector with a green tab on the side, held to the engine block with a gold colored 10mm hex headed bolt. You will need to view the sensor from this position as you are following the steps below to remove and install the crank sensor. check fig:-- 03211f6.jpg

Thanks. Keep updated for any more query. You can rate this solution and show your appreciation.

Jul 12, 2010 | 2006 Nissan Altima

1 Answer

Installation on 94 1.9L timing belt


Remove the serpentine belt, remove the lower crankshaft pulley, place a jack under the oil pan and jack up the engine slightly, remove the engine mount (right top). Remove the timing belt cover, loosen the timing belt tensioner and pull tensioner pulley back toward the rear of vehicle. I like to then tighten the tensioner bolt to hold it in this position, remove and replace belt. If you need to put the engine in time then look at the camshaft there is a small arrow in the center it lines up with a dot on the end of the cylinder head. The lower timing mark is a small metal tip that sticks out from the lower gear and it lines up with a notch cut into the front cover just behind the lower gear. Once aligned properly put the belt on the lower gear and without turning the lower gear or camshaft gear pull the belt tight up to the cam shaft the cogs in the belt will line up with the grooves, then place the belt around the water pump drive gear and under the tensioner, then push the belt over all gears by hand without turning the engine. Loosen the tensioner bolt and apply a little pressure toward the front of the vehicle and tighten the bolt. Replace everything else previously removed. Engine should start and run normally. Hope this helps, let me know.

Dec 26, 2009 | 1994 Ford Escort

2 Answers

Oil leaking out of valve cover gasket


It is a Valve Cover Gasket. You can get a new one at any Auto Parts Store. To make this repair last longer, Do not get the Cheap one, Get a Felpro Gasket and it will Quadrupel the Gasket Life. Please Rate My Response! Thanks!

Jan 30, 2009 | 2001 Kia Sportage

2 Answers

How do i reset the timing belt on a 2002 dodge interpid 3.5 v6


  1. Remove the passenger headlight and disconnect the negative terminal of the battery
  2. Drain the radiator.
  3. Remove the driver’s side headlight
  4. Remove the upper radiator cowl. (That’s the big metal piece running across the front of the car. don't forget the hood latch.)
  5. Disconnect the small hose on the driver's side, top of the radiator. 
  6. Remove the four bolts holding the fans to the radiator.
  7. The fans can be removed by pushing them towards the passenger side, raising the driver’s side above the lower radiator hose, then coming back towards the drivers side.
  8. Loosen both belt tensioners and remove the belts. The bolt going through the pulley locks the tensioner in place.  Loosen it and then back off the tensioner bolt.
  9. Using the Chrysler Harmonic Balancer Removal Tool (Available at AutoZone), remove the harmonic balancer.
  10. Remove the serpentine belt tensioner completely.
  11. Remove the bolts on the aluminum timing belt cover on the driver's side.
  12. Remove the bolts on the stamped steel timing belt cover.  (Do not scrape the gasket material off, it is reusable.)
  13. Using the crank bolt and an 18mm socket, rotate the crank to TDC.  There’s an arrow on the pulley and TDC marked on the block.
  14. If the car is in time, the slot in each cam should line up between the two dots on the block at 12 o'clock.  If not, rotate the crank once and check again.
  15. If the marks do not line up, some adjustment of the cams will be needed before placing the new belt on.
  16. Loosen the timing belt tensioner out slowly.  Complete removal is not necessary.
  17. Pull the old belt off.  If the crank are in time, they will not rotate.  TDC (and 6-7 o'clock) is a natural resting place.  If they are out of time, have someone hold the cams with a breaker bar (not a ratchet) and socket before removing the timing belt, then SLOWLY rotate them to TDC.
  18. The passenger’s side cam should be set a little to the right of the two dots.  This allows the cam to time properly when tightening the tensioner.
  19. Install the new timing belt by starting at the crank, then up over the driver’s side cam, under the water pump, and over the passenger’s side cam.  
  20. Slowly tighten the tensioner back up and watch the timing of the passenger's side cam.  You may have to back it off and adjust the cam to allow for the rotation while tightening the tensioner.
  21. Reinstall the covers, then the crank pulley. The crank pulley bolt can be used to draw the crank pulley back onto the crank shaft.
  22. The rest is putting everything back on in the reverse order.
 
NOTE: Depending on mileage, I suggest replacing the water pump while you're in there.  It's fairly cheap and will save you a lot of time and trouble if it were to go out later; cause you'd get to do this all again!
 

Jun 16, 2008 | 2002 Dodge Intrepid

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