Question about 1997 Chevrolet Tahoe

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Possible clutch issue on 1997 Chevy Tahoe - 0 psi on high side

Hi, I have a 1997 Chevy Tahoe. There is no cool air coming out although I had the air conditioner on MAX and the light indicating the air conditioner was engaged was lit. I noticed the clutch was not turning. I proceeded to switch out the relays hoping that it would solve this issue but no change. I then hooked up some gauges to measure the pressure of both the high and low side. The low side was not within specs (8 psi @85) while the high side measured 0 psi. I added freon until the low side measured 35 psi just in case it might kick in the cluch but no change. I want to avoid spending a lot of money replacing the compressor as it might be the clutch only. Am I way off in thinking its the clutch (or compressor for that matter). Could it be something else? If it is the clutch, how hard would it be to replace it? Any special tools needed? If its the compressor, I think I also need to replace the drier & orafice tube (expansion valve). How involved is this and is it a job I can do without special tools (I realize I may need to have the system evacuated for freon but other than that). Any other insights or thoughts?Thank you very much.J

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  • mjeep01 Jul 04, 2009

    Thank you for replying so quickly. Is there a way to definitely determine its the clutch and not the compressor?
    The reason I am asking how difficult the clutch is to replace is because I came across this link which looks like replacing the clutch is somewhat involved and I wasn't sure if this procedure is what is done in general for all compressors or if its specific to the compressor of the link: http://www.bernardembden.com/xjs/comclut...

  • mjeep01 Jul 04, 2009

    Thank you for replying so quickly. Is there a way to definitely determine its the clutch and not the compressor?
    The reason I am asking how difficult the clutch is to replace is because I came across this link which looks like replacing the clutch is somewhat involved and I wasn't sure if this procedure is what is done in general for all compressors or if its specific to the compressor of the link: http://www.bernardembden.com/xjs/comclut...

  • mjeep01 Jul 05, 2009

    Thank you for replying so quickly. Is there a way to definitely determine its the clutch and not the compressor?
    The reason I am asking how difficult the clutch is to replace is because I came across this link which looks like replacing the clutch is somewhat involved and I wasn't sure if this procedure is what is done in general for all compressors or if its specific to the compressor of the link: http://www.bernardembden.com/xjs/comclut...

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You will have to have a puller for removing it,you can get at auto parts, no very expensive remove the belt remove the nut on front of pulley and use the puller, you dont have to take out the freon. replace and tighten nut to pull new pully in place

Posted on Jul 04, 2009

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Hello,
After your exhaustive tasks I feel one of two things are left to rule out.
First, have you an air lock? did you bleed the cooling system after installation of parts? if not try parking on level ground, with engine cold not running remove coolant filler cap and top up if required to correct level.
Start the vehicle and leave to idle with cap off, have plenty of hot water available, when at operating temperature you may here gurgling and see bubbles in the cooling system Beware not to get too close as it will hopefully boil over, after it does top up with warm water and wait, keep blower on full and heat to max inside vehicle.
It may boil/bubble over a few times before settling if so top up and replace cap once settled.
Finally if an abundant amount of air bubbles are continually visible and regular bubbling over then unfortunately the cylinder head or gasket could be at fault.
I hope this points you in the correct area.
Please remember to politely rate this possible remedy!
Onyer~EDson(:0) {#><U.K.

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