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it's either low (in spite of your readings) or your a/c clutch is not working correctly or you have too big an air gap in the clutch.
First, just disconnect the 2 pin connector from the a/c pressure cycling swithc and jumper the 2 pins with a wire to force the clutch to stay engaged. See if it blows cold then, and stays engaged. You can run this way for about 15 minutes before you have to pull the plug.
"Most Fords have a CCRM (Continuous Control Relay Module) thats on the passenger side fenderwell. It has 4 relays: one for the AC compressor cluth, one for the fuel pump, and two for the electric fan (high- and low-speed.) The AC is the one that fails the most. You can replace the CCRM by removing the intake air filter box and working through the fenderwell openings. If it gets to difficult you must remove the wheel and splash cover to replace it from the wheel opening." - H-andy Mann
with the engine idling, tap on the ccrm and listen for the clutch to come on. if it comes on, you need to replace the entire ccrm.
Make sure the radiator pressure cap is the correct one and that the hose is not soft--check the lower hose and heater hoses for softness as well. They should be firm, but not hard or cracking. The temperature sensor is reporting normal operating temperature, so it and the thermostat are working correctly (hot water would blow out of the radiator if it were stuck). Check the cooling fan for free turning and no noise. Check it's grounding connection. Check the fuse box for blown fuses to the fan and to the A/C compressor. Make sure all the relays and fuses are firmly pressed into their sockets. Check the A/C compressor clutch winding for resistance--should not read infinity. Does the blower motor for the heater/A/C run when either is turned on? The A/C switch on the dash may be defective.
well what you can do because your switch is bad is have a mechanic install a toggle switch that has to be flipped on before you turn on your ac and your compressor will go back to working normally. wired directly to battery is the only way to guarantee that you will get back to that ice cold as. ENJOY!!!!!!
Sounds Like The High Pressure Switch on The Air Drier On The Passenger Side Firewall Unplug The Connector From The Switch That Is In The Thing That Looks LIke A Cylinder They Are two Hoses Coming Out It Now That You Found It Take A paper Clip And Stick In Both Contacts On The Wire With Car Running And A/C On The Compressor Should Kick on At This Time If It Does You Know That The Compressor Is Good But I Would Not Leave It Plugged Up Like That For More Than A Few Minutes It Can Burn Up The Compressor If IT is Low On Gas It Will Not Kick on If You Know That It Still Is Full of Gas Then Your High Pressure Switch Is Bad I Would Recommend Making Sure Its Full Before Purchasing A Switch If You Change Switch It Just Unscrews out Counterclockwise
have u tested the ac compressor cycling switch located in the low side line from the compressor? also a common failure is the AC compressor cycling relay also known as the WOT (wide open throttle) relay Jumper a wire across the AC cycling switch in the low side line, if the compressor runs replace the switch, if not then replace the relay which in in the power distribution box under the hood.