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Anonymous Posted on Sep 20, 2014

How do I remove a drum brake bleeder?

213,000 miles and the brake line is leaking slowly where there is rust. I cannot fix it if I cannot bleed the brakes afterwards. Rear brake drums with the original bleeders, never removed. It seems the bleeder wants to break when I put a socket on it.

1 Answer

robert wales

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  • GMC Master 4,977 Answers
  • Posted on Sep 21, 2014
robert wales
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Joined: Mar 01, 2011
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Some of these are tight and need more effort to loosen and sometimes you have to heat the area around the bleeder screw with a torch to loosen the bleeder. then there are times when no matter what you do you have to replace the bleeder.

5 Related Answers

Anonymous

  • 94 Answers
  • Posted on Nov 25, 2008

SOURCE: Having difficulty removing rear brake drum on 2003 Suzuki Aerio.

Yes the phillips head screws have to be removed, on some models there are two more holes in the face of the drum to insert threaded bolts to remove the drum, simply thread the bolts in to remove the drum.

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Anonymous

  • 1 Answer
  • Posted on Dec 27, 2008

SOURCE: chrysler voyager drum brakes excess hand brake travel no adjuster how can a take up slack

i had the same problem with my crysler voyager 1997,a friend of mine who is a mechanic found the problem,it is a self adjuster on the handbrake itself,once drums are adjusted up you need to go to your hanbrake area and you will find a white plastic clip on the bottom of the lever ,once removed you pull up your handbrake a few times and it self adjusts,then put the plastic clip back on,this soved my problem,by doing this my handbrake went from about 13 clicks on max to hold . to about 6 clicks and held perfectly

Anonymous

  • 6982 Answers
  • Posted on Mar 25, 2009

SOURCE: bleeding rear drum brakes

Take a small drill bit and clean out the center hole of both bleed screws (make sure you get all the way down into the hole, but don't go into the metal at the end.) Then, spray a good solvent into holes and on threads. Give some time for the solvent to soak in.
Put a six point box wrench on the bleeder then tap on the end of bleeder with a hammer. Keep doing this till it comes loose when turning the wrench. Don't use excessive force but don't be afraid to use enough force to get it to turn. Doing this, you will crush the tip of the bleeder, but that will not harm the "business end" Don't use vise grips on bleeders. At best you will damage flanks of nut portion, at worse, you will snap them off. Once you have removed bleeder, clean all rust off, make sure passageway is clear and re-install. If you do manage to break a bleeder, they can be drilled out, but it must be done carefully...if you damage threads or end seat it's officially junk. Bleeder screws are usually available at most parts stores...and, wheel cylinders are not very expensive if you need to replace one. Hope this helps!

Anonymous

  • 4 Answers
  • Posted on Apr 11, 2009

SOURCE: REAR BRAKE DRUM WON,T COME OFF

Make sure the wheel turns and adjuster backed off . If you can see a Countersunk screw in the face of the hub remove it.  If hitting it fails , usually you can see two small 8,10 or 12 mm holes in the face of the hub . Find the correct bolts and screw them into the the hub , it should force the the drum to pop off . What car is it , and does it have tapered wheel bearings on the outside of the drum?

Richard

  • 20 Answers
  • Posted on Jul 04, 2009

SOURCE: how to remove rear brake drums on 2002 frod escape

Behind the brake mounting plate there is a small hole with a rubber plug on the top portion.

Remove the plug. Look from the back of the vehicle and you will see a star wheel in the hole. Stick

a long skinny screw driver with a large blade and rotate it in the direction of risistance.(clockwise).

You will hear a spring poping noise. Rotate a few times and the drums will turn freely.

Then you can slide the drums off.

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2helpful
2answers

When i step on the brake pedal it goes all the way down, what's wrong?

You have air in your brake lines. Try inspecting the system for brake fluid leaks. Replace any worn out brake pads, scored discs, leaking brake piston seals, etc.Now place a clear tube on the bleeder screws, one at a time , and bleed the air out of the system with the help of a friend to push the brake pedal. Start at the rear wheel cylinders and finish with the front calipers. Once the air is out of the lines the pedal should firm back up.
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Just replaced the rear brake lines and the bleeder valves are so rusted away they're stripped and the whole assembly is so rusted its almost impossible to get the drum off to change the cylinder

I suggest that you replace everything. Yhat is not something you want to cut corners with.
A thumbs up would be greatly appreciated if this answer is helpful to you. just-replaced-rear-brake-jjq1gbgvbnuqnoqvaolrtxpp-2-0.jpg
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Busted wheel cyl on rear wheel lost fluid now no pressure back there what do i look for

if it is the wheel cylinder that is leaking then it will have to be replaced and all the components cleaned with brake cleaner.depending how badly soaked the brake shoes are you may have to replace them also.you may have to heat the brake line that connects to the wheel cylinder,or even replace the line if it gets damaged.the bleed all the air out of the system,
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I have a1997 plymouth grand voyager and it has been leaking brake fluid that is showing on the back rim what is causing the leak is it the brake cylinder or the brake line

Hi, the problem is usually the brake wheel cylinder inside. Put the car in park but do not set the brake. Jack up the wheel and remove the wheel and drum. At the top of the hub assembly you will see a cylinder between the tops of the shoes with rubber boots on each side. If fluid leaks out when you pull back the edge of either boot, the cylinder is leaking and must be replaced.
Purchase a new cylinder and also some brake fluid if you don't have any on hand. Check your reservoir. Hopefully it is not empty, or you would have drawn air into the system. Fill up the reservoir before replacing the wheel cylinder.
To replace, use a vice grip plier to remove the return spring that holds the shoe tops together, then pull the shoe tops away from the cylinder. Place something under the hub to catch the fluid that will leak during the replacement.
Loosen the hydraulic fitting on the back of the hub using a line wrench of the correct size, then remove the 2 bolts holding the cylinder to the hub (see picture below). Have the new cylinder handy and disconnect the line from the old cylinder. Quickly remove the old cylinder and put in the new one. Screw the line fitting on finger tight and then replace the bolts. Replace the return spring between the shoes. Tighten the line and open the bleeder valve above the fitting about one turn. The line may gravity bleed the air out. Give it a few minutes. If clear fluid starts to leak out and no bubbles, tighten the bleeder and reassemble the wheel. If it does not gravity bleed, replace the drum and have someone assist with a pressure bleed. With the bleeder closed, have the assistant pump the brake pedal and then hold it down while you open and close the bleeder. They should not let up on the pedal until you have closed the bleeder. repeat this process of ejecting air and fluid until only fluid comes out. Then replace the wheel and let the car down.
Please let me know if you have any questions, and thanks for using FixYa.

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0helpful
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Have an 89 festiva changed 5 master cylinders and still cant bleed front driver and rear pass wheel and also changed distribution block 3 times. i cant bleed it rite from the front port of the master...

Section 06-06: Hydraulic Brake System 1992 Festiva Workshop Manual GENERAL SERVICE OPERATIONS Manual Bleeding
  1. Read Hydraulic System Bleeding General Information.
  1. Clean all dirt from the master cylinder filler cap.
  1. Fill the master cylinder with the specified brake fluid. During the bleeding operation do not allow the master cylinder to run dry.
  1. If the master cylinder is known or suspected to contain air it must be bled before the wheel cylinders or calipers. To bleed the master cylinder, loosen the front line fitting and have an assistant push the brake pedal slowly through its full travel. While the assistant holds the pedal, tighten the brake line fitting. After the line fitting is tightened, the assistant may release the brake pedal. Repeat this procedure on the rear brake line. Repeat the entire process several times to ensure all air has been removed from the master cylinder.
  1. Remove the bleeder screw cap from the appropriate rear wheel cylinder.
  1. Position a box end wrench on the bleeder fitting.
  1. Attach a rubber hose to the bleeder fitting. The hose has to fit snugly around the bleeder fitting.
  1. Submerge the free end of the hose in a container partially filled with brake fluid.
  1. Loosen the bleeder fitting approximately three quarters of a turn.
  1. Have an assistant push the brake pedal slowly through its full travel and hold it there.
  1. Close the bleeder fitting.
  1. Have the assistant release the brake pedal.
  1. Repeat Steps 9 through 12 until air bubbles cease to appear at the submerged end of the bleeder hose.
  1. When the fluid entering the bottle is completely free of bubbles, tighten the bleeder screw, remove the bleeder hose, and install the bleeder screw cap.
  1. Repeat Steps 5 through 14 at the appropriate diagonal front caliper.
  1. Check the master cylinder fluid level. If necessary fill it to the correct level with the specified brake fluid.
  1. Check pedal feel. If the pedal remains spongy, repeat the bleeding process or, if necessary, refer to Diagnosis and Testing in Section 06-00.
1helpful
1answer

I have a 97 jetta and when i try and bleed my brakes i start on the passenger side bleeder valve. and when i start bleeding the brakes i have pressure and the pedal goes to the floor but when i bleed the...

When bleeding you start at the rt rear to left rear to rt front to left front always checking to make sure master stays with fluid, also start by removing one bleeder at a time and make sure the hole is clean and free of dirt brake clean should flow through, do this to all 4, then have someone pump pedal 3 times and hold then open bleeder when you close bleeder tell them pump again three times, do this all around until you have a good pedal, also check for leaks after bleeding, may have bad rusted line or bad master but bleed each wheel good first.dont worry about pedal going to floor everytime, just make sure fluid flows out of all bleeders when bleeding. hope this helps.
0helpful
1answer

1998 Durango, replaced brake line that was rusted in two, (was long line under drivers side to rear) bled all four brakes, abs and brake light are now on and will not go off. Have read it could be rear...

Dear Brake Line....
I read your paragraph and if this brake light was never on previously to the brake line repair....then all it sounds like to me is that you have air enclosed in the braking system still. I would strongly advise that you bleed the braking system again....also bleed the master cylinder if you replaced a line of the master cylinder also...to make this easier on you your local auto parts store makes what they call one man bleeders that you can buy then install to bleed the system then remove and replace with regular brake bleeders.....just do a quick double check also to make sure that the line you replaced doesn't have any brake fluid leaking out also...any questions get back to me.....HOPE I COULD HELP!!!!
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I have a 92 chrsy. 5th ave with no antilock brakes. just base brakes with rear drums. replaced master cly. due to leaking and replaced all the brake lines and hoses. i have good streams of fluid from all 4...

When you bleed the brakes are you starting with brake furthest from the master cylinder? Also was the master cylinder bench bled? If everything there is okay and you are not getting any air in fluid stream, you could try bleeding the brakes by having some one slowly pump the pedal till it is firm. Then have them let off open first bleeder valve and slowly depress to floor and hold there untol the valve is closed. repeat this at all bleeders. You may want to have car running to do this. Try this and let me know.
2helpful
2answers

Bleeding rear drum brakes

The wheel cylinders are mounted on the oustide of the brake flange. If those are origonal cylinders, I'd replace them...they are pretty cheap ($10-15 each) and your old ones probably have rotted seals anyway. b4b8253.jpg
0helpful
1answer

How dificult is it to replace a wheel cylinder in a 2000 Jeep.

On a scale of 1-10, its about a 3. It's a bolt out, bolt in item. Remove the brake linings, detach the brake line, using a flair nut wrench to avoid damage. (if frozen, remove line completely & replace. line can be cut above nut and 6pt socket can be used to remove it.). Unbolt cylinder and push it through the backing plate. Reverse process to install. When finished, re-fill master cyl and open bleeder screw on new cyl. push brake pedal down gently with your hand (do not use your foot or push hard...you can damage the master cyl) and keep it down while someone closes the bleeder. Open the r/r bleeder and do same thing. till no air comes out. repeat again at l/r.Close it up, re-fill master and your'e finished. (note: if master was dry before you began repair, re-fill and begin bleeding process at master before bleeding either rear cyl.While bleeding, closely monitor master level so you do not run dry)
Note: It is advised that brqake linings be replaced after any leak. If you cannot afford, wash linings and drum in strong soapy water & dry off before using. not as good as new, but better than oil soaked!
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