H is afraid to tighten bolt that is closest to the radiator. he is at home and i am at work so i cannot tell you what exactly this bolt is going into. he says it's going into the motor but from what i recall from working on it yesterday, it was a mount only. if it is only crossthreaded about 3/16, is this going to hurt anything? I don't want him to tighten it if it's gonna mess up the motor or something worse.
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Place the drain pan under the radiator drain plug, open the plug and allow it to drain. Close the plug. Loosen the four nuts on the waterpump pulley but do not remove them yet. Loosen the adjusting bolts in the alternator and the power steering pump with a wrench, push them away from the belts and remove the belts.
2Remove the bolts securing the fan shroud to the radiator support using a 10 mm socket. Remove the four nuts on the water pump pulley, then remove the fan and shroud as an assembly. Remove the bolts in the crankshaft pulley using a socket. Loosen and remove the crankshaft bolt using a socket.
Remove the top radiator hose. Extract all the 10 mm bolts securing the top and bottom timing covers and remove the covers.
4Install the crankshaft bolt temporarily. Use a socket on the bolt and turn the crankshaft clockwise until the mark on the crankshaft sprocket aligns with the timing mark on the block at the 12 o'clock position. Look at the camshaft sprockets and make sure the left sprocket has the "I" facing straight up and the right sprocket has the "E" facing up. At the same time, notice that there is a line on each sprocket adjacent to each mark--make sure they line up with the notch on the cylinder head at 12 o'clock. This allows for perfect alignment. If they do not come close to aligning, rotate the crankshaft one more time and they will align.
5Loosen the tensioner bolt and push the tensioner away from the belt. Loosely tighten the bolt to maintain position. Remove the belt.
6Install the new belt starting on the right side away from the tensioner. Keep all the tension on the right side. Loosen the tensioner bolt and allow it to apply tension on the belt. Do not tighten the bolt yet. Rotate the engine two turns clockwise and re-align the timing marks. Tighten the tensioner bolt to 35 foot-pounds.
7Install the timing belt covers. Remove the crankshaft bolt and install the crankshaft pulley. Reinstall the bolt and tighten. Install the radiator shroud and fan as an assembly. Place the fan on the water pump pulley, install the four nuts loosely, install the bolts in the fan shroud and tighten.
8Install the belts around the crank pulley, water pump pulley and alternator and pull the alternator up to tension the belt and tighten the bolts using a socket. Tighten the water pump pulley nuts using a wrench.
9Install the belt on the powersteering pump, pull the pump out to tension the belt and tighten the bolts. Install the upper radiator hose. Fill the radiator with antifreeze
Here are the instructions to replace the belt which are ones the same as the 2.3 earlier engine. Getting Started
Remove the radiator shroud and loosen the water pump pulley bolts. Remove the accessory drive belts. Remove the water pump pulley bolts. Remove the water pump pulley and the radiator cooling fan. Drain and recover the Freon from the air-conditioning system. Remove the air-conditioning compressor. Remove the power steering pump but leave the lines attached and move aside. Remove the air conditioning bracket. Remove the crankshaft pulley bolt and the pulley using the wheel puller. Remove the timing belt cover.
Align Crankshaft and Block
Turn the crankshaft clockwise until the keyway on the crankshaft sprocket is straight up and the dot to the right side of it is lined up with the corresponding mark on the block. Check that the triangle mark on the camshaft sprocket lines up with the same type mark on the block at the 5 o'clock position. If not then turn the crankshaft one more time and it will align.
Loosen the large bolt on the top of the tensioner and then loosen the bolt closest to the tensioner pulley. Use the special ford tool and turn the tensioner clockwise to take the tension off of the timing belt and tighten the adjusting bolt lightly to hold it out of your way. Remove the timing belt.
Install the new timing belt starting on the right side and work counterclockwise. The circle on the crankshaft sprocket and the diamond marks on the oil pump and the triangle marks on the camshaft sprocket should always stay lined up. Loosen the adjuster bolt on the tensioner and rotate the engine two turns clockwise and realign the timing marks. Tighten the tensioner-adjusting bolt next to the tensioner pulley and then pivot bolt. Install the rest of the components in the reverse order that they were removed and tighten the crankshaft bolt to 121 foot-pounds of torque.
Draw a rectangle on a piece ao paper. mark the bolt hole positions so this makes sense. left will be the front of the head looking from the drivers side. Number the bolts as follows: Row closest to you left to right: 7,3,2,6,10. Row on passenger side, 8,4,1,5,9. Tightening order is consecutive...12345etc. Tighten all bolts to 22 foot pounds. Use sealer on #7 bolt threads. Next round is at 45# and last round is at 110 pounds except number 7 which is set at 100. I do not recommend re-using the old bolts as some can snap when tightening. I generally wait an hour and then go over tightening sequence one more time (don't forget 7 is different than all others) Always make sure there is no coolant in any of the bolt holes before assembly.
Tighten the bolts in a pattern as such;
8 6 2 4 10 9 3 1 5 7
So if you were looking straight down onto the head, the first bolt you'd tighten would be the center one, closest to you. The second bolt you'd tighten is the center one farthest from you. The 3rd would be one left for middle closest to you, 4th would be one right from center, farther from you...Make sence? Tighten them all in that sequence, to 29 ft-lbs. After they are all tightened in that order, start from 1 and tighten them all to 51ft-lbs. Then finally, tighten them all down to 72ft-lbs.
Make sure to follow that order every time. If a bolt makes a wierd noise while you are tightening it, loosen the bolt, and retorque it from the 1st step.
to tighten the thin belt, loosen the top and then the bottom nuts that go through to the frame. The turn the bolt on top, the closest to the front of the car, clockwise. Then tighten both through bolts up. For the thick belt, loosen the through bolt on the alternator, then turn the long bolt at the bottom, front of car, of alternator clockwise.
The Double threded Bolt IF it ia A Long one is for ALT. and P/S Pump FixYs's Little Picture Posting tool Does Not Work so i Cnt Post picture and I DOUBT if you can Find One THAT Detailed Sorry But Here is the Install Written Procedure
Install the generator.
Install the front generator/ A/C bracket. NOTE : Refer to Fastener Notice in Cautions and Notices.
yes the entire idler arm needs replacement to clear this problem.
there are many things to be checked
just click this link directly http://www.2carpros.com/maintenance/car_safety_inspection.htm
you will need to remove the alternator to replace the idler arm pulley Disconnect the negative, then the positive battery cables. Remove the battery from the vehicle. Remove the battery tray using the following procedure: Remove the four battery tray bolts. Remove the battery tray from the vehicle. Remove the serpentine drive belt. Remove the coolingfan assemblyusing the following procedure: Remove the wishbone-shaped engine mount strut by removing the bolts and nuts at the engine mount bracket and on the upper radiator support. Remove the strut from the vehicle. Disconnect the cooling fan harness from the engine wiring harness. Reposition the wiring harness at the upper radiator support. Remove the cooling fan shroud bolts. Remove the right side radiator bracket. Remove the cooling fan shroud with the electric cooling fan motors and fans as an assembly. Remove the thermostat housing and the radiator hose using the following procedure. Partially drain the engine coolant. Use hose clamp pliers to remove the radiator hose clamp to the water inlet housing and disconnect the radiator hose. Use hose clamp pliers to remove the heater hose clamp to the water inlet housing and disconnect the heater hose from the water inlet housing. Use hose clamp pliers to remove the surge tank inlet hose clamp from the water inlet housing and disconnect the surge tank hose from the water inlet housing. Remove the water inlet housing bolts and remove the water inlet housing. Remove the outboard generator bolt and loosen the inboard bolt. Remove the idler pulley bolt and idler pulley. Unplug the electrical connectorfrom the alternator. Pull back the protective boot from the alternator "BAT" terminal, remove the nut and disconnect the heavy "BAT" wire from the alternator terminal stud. Remove the alternator from the vehicle. To Install: Position the alternator to the engine. Plug in the electrical connectors and install the heavy "BAT" wire to the alternator terminal stud. Tighten the nut to 15 ft. lbs. (20 Nm). Press the protective boot back in place over the stud terminal and nut assembly. Install theoutboardalternator bolt into the alternator housing. Install the inboard alternator bolt and then finger-tighten theoutboardbolt. Install the idler pulley and idler pulley bolt. Tighten the bolts in the following torque sequence: Tighten the idler pulley bolt to 37 ft lbs. (50 Nm). Tighten the alternator bolts to 37 ft. lbs. (50 Nm). Install the water inlet and thermostat housing and the radiator hose, observing the following: Inspect and clean the mating surfaces on the thermostat cover and its mounting surface on the engine. Use RTV Sealer GM #1052366 or equivalent on the mounting bolts since the threaded openings are open to the cooling system and the torque requirement is low. Install the water inlet and thermostat housing and tighten the bolts to 80 inch lbs. (9 Nm). Connect the surge tank inlet hose to the water inlet housing. Connect the heater hose to the water inlet housing. Connect the radiator hose to the water inlet housing. Install the coolingfan assemblyand tighten the radiator bracket bolts to 80 inch lbs. (9 Nm). Plug in the wiring harness at the upper radiator support. Plug in the cooling fan wiring harness to the engine wiring harness. Install the engine mount strut bracket to the upper radiator support first, insert the through bolt. Attach the engine side of the strut to the engine mount strut bracket on the engine and install the through bolt. Thread the nuts on the through bolts and tighten to 35 ft. lbs. (48 Nm). Install the battery tray and tighten the bolts to 44 inch lbs. (5 Nm). Install the battery. Install the serpentinedrive belt. Connect the positive, then the negative battery cables. This will help. Thanks please keep updated. please do rate the solution positively .thank you for using fixya.
if you dont have the rivnut tool the easy way to get rivenuts to tighten up is to get a bolt and nut longer than what comes in the kit (stainless steel a better choice). place the nut in vice and using a hack saw cut some groves at right angles accross face of the nut,or use a file set at an angle . when you are satisfied that the nut has enough sharp edge's , this is what is going to hold the rivnut in place while you turn bolt to compress the rivnut. now screw nut onto halfway on to bolt and screw bolt into rivenut until bolt and nut are tight up against the rivnut, now using two spanners one on the bolt and one on the nut , hold nut still and screw in the bolt , as the bolt starts to screw in it should compress the rivnut so it holds tight in to the predrilled hole. then screw bolt out and remove , that should get you sorted. if rivnut is crossthreaded drill out and replace.
is it in the starter or the trans? In the starter, replace the starter. In the trans, you may need to have someone repair the threads with helicoil, or you can put some locktight on the bolt, get it fairly tight, and it should set up.