Clicking noise where ? under the hood in the engine compartment ,the starter , a relay in the fuse box , inside the vehicle etc.... Checking the battery , battery cables and connections , do the headlamps work ,are they bright ?
If the headlamps work and are bright then the battery an connections are Ok . If not bright ,voltage drop test the main battery cables an connections .
How to voltage drop test starter motor circuit
The starting system on your vehicle is different then this , a tipical starting . Your starter system is more complex ,when you turn the key to the start position it inputs a voltage signal to the BCM - body control module , The BCM then sends a message to the PCM - engine computer on the class 2 serial data communication network that start is requested . The PCM will then supply a ground to the control side of the start relay energizing the relay sending B+ voltage to the starter solenoid .
The vehicle dying on you could be any number of thing's ,and without testing we'd only be guessing . When electronic thing's heat up they tend to act like that , till they cool again .
SOURCE: Car dies while driving
I think that your crank angle sensor failed. Is the check engine light on?? if so, scan it and get code. If the code is P0335, than you need new crank angle sensor. Nissan has been having some problems with those even on other Nissan products. (Altima, Pathfinder and so on) Good luck.
SOURCE: 91 Dodge ram 50 ignition problem, rough idle in drive,dies when braking
my ram 50 starts just like any other vehicle, (no light switch pulling whatso ever), it sounds like somebody haas rewired something wrong or you have a loose connection and when you hit a large enough bump it cuts your power. Start it up and find a speed bump somewhere and drive over it enough to give your truck a jolt and see if it dies.
SOURCE: My 98 s10 is stuck in 4 wheel drive low.
Pull the kick panel on the passenger side. there is a small box mounted there that is the computer that controls the actuator for the 4wd system. this is notorious for problems due in fact that the connector likes to pull out and away from the module. I had the same problem and the solution is simple.. take a long zip tie and get it between a few of the wires and around the module. tie it in and have a nice day.. it wont come off or try to pop out anymore and you should have no issues getting into 2wd, 4wd h, 4wd L.
SOURCE: Crankshaft positioning sensor?
Sounds like you are back at square one....Therefore, you need to re-test the old sensor to make sure it is bad, re-test the new one to make sure it is not either defective or that it isn't hitting the flywheel. I would go further and test the remainder of the sensors on the engine as well as it is possible that another item is bad. Also make sure your fuel pump is operating properly and has good pressure. No shop tech can do a repair without proper testing,(shops spend thousands of $ on test equipment for that reason) you can't either.
Most inexpensive manuals such as chiltons or haynes have instructions for testing, and for most tests except fuel pump pressure, you can do tests using any good digital multi-meter. From here, I can't responsibly tell you what needs to be fixed, but I can tell you what to do to find the problem....in your case testing!
Good luck!!
SOURCE: 1983 chevy s-10 pickup 2.8v6 engine won't start
Just a long shot, but, (correct me if I am wrong about this), has the timing chain ever been changed? It is possible that it might have slipped a gear ot two. There could be other problems that has nothing to do with the changing of the Alt. Possible cam problems ? You will have to first check the timing.
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