Question about 2001 BMW Z3
Car had the hood replaced 3 days ago from a woman who backed into me. Drove fine for 3 days so I don't think that is connected - just background info. Stopped at a friends last night on way home from a funeral and as I was leaving 15 mins later - I decided I should check the oil (as I had a voice saying I hadn't checked it in a while and I know I burn a little). Sure enough it needed a little so I added some. My friend remarked that my brake fluid looked low. It was getting late and the lighting was not very good - but it did look like the shadow from the fluid inside was below the "min" mark and since he had some DOT4 brake fluid - we decided to "top it up". Turned out it was a false shadow - and the brake fluid was fine and we "overfilled" the brake fluid resevoir above the screen. So we "sopped up the excess" as best as we could with some rags - but it is still just above the screen and thus right at the Max level. I don't think either of these things could have anything to do with the issue - but I provide them as background just in case. I go to start the car- and it won't turn over. Doesn't even click. We think? Did we bump or disconnect something? We check everything and its all fine. So I think - maybe the battery just died - even though I'd had no indication. So he brings out his "Costco PowerStation" charger and starter and we hook it up to the battery. Note while we do that, we check the little indicator window on the battery with a flashlight (it is now 10:PM and quite dark out) and the indicator reads "green" Car still won't start, although now it is getting enough juice to at least "click" the starter motor - but not turn it over. The top was down and I wanted to close it - but there was not enough power to do this without having the "Powerstation" charger unit (essentially a spare battery) turned "on". We think - maybe we just need "more" juice than the powerstation can provide - so we hook up some super heavy duty jumper cables (my friend has all the toys one can imagine in his garage) and connect them to his truck with the engine running and rev it up. Still nothing but a lot of clicking and dimming of the dashboard indicator (idiot) lights. We are stumped, its dark and the misquitoes are going nuts so we give up for the night. This morning his is is the status (now that I can see).
Tried to start it on its own - (hope springs eternal) and nothing.
Hooked up the powerstation and with it in the "off" position -checked the BMW battery in my car and it reads fully charged at 13 volts.
There is enough juice that with the trunk light is on - but it does get brighter when we turn "on" the Powerstation provding the extra battery source.
With the powerstation off - when I turn on the headlights - they are extremely dim - and everything in the dashboard goes dim.
With the key on - after the initial flash of all the dashboard indicator lights - the Battery and Oil lights stay on. I also hear a little electric motor in the engine compartment that is on the right side behind the shock strut housing covered by a plastic cover. Not sure what it is but it is humming. The other indicator lights that stay on are the "Service engine soon' indicator (I am in the last green bar of the graph below the odometer - just before it goes yellow - but I have am not late in the service interval - it is just a warning to service it soon). Interestingly, after a few moments - another idiotl light comes on - the one indicating that the air bag has deployed - which it obviously had not. BTW - the woman who backed into me when I was parked did so very slowly so there was no deployment of the airbag at that time, and the front fendor was not replaced (the hood was because it got torqued) it was just repainted - I don't know if they removed it and didn't hook something up right - but the airbag light had NOT been on for the several days I had the car after picking it up.
The electric clock is still keeping time - but the radio display now reads "Code - - - - -" and of course I have no idea what the code reset it.
When I try to start the car on its own - it "clicks" for a while and then literally doesn't have enough juice to do that. Yet the battery still reads 13V on the powerstation reader with the powerstation in the off mode. When I turn "on" the powerstation - there is enough juice to keep the "clicking" going on the starter motor - but nothing beyond that- with each click of course all the dash indicator lights sharply dim. Note - I'm writing this "real time" live with my laptop on my roof as I do each step. I'm noticing now that the airbag indicator light is no longer lit up - but the powerstation is still on. So I'll turn it off and see what happens.
OK - turned off power station and without turning the key off - and now the airbag light came back on, along with several more idiot lights momentarily (the ABS and the Triangle in the middle) but those went out after a few moments - but airbag light is still on.
When I turn the Powerstation back on to provide extra juice to my battery - then the airbag light goes out - but the oil and battery indicator lights stay on. Not sure what else I can share of value. Any ideas?
When I turn "on" the Powerstation- providing it a spare battery -
a 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
the service is completely free and covers almost anything you can think of (from cars to computers, handyman, and even drones).
click here to download the app (for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need.
Posted on Jan 02, 2017
either you have a hole in your coolant tank or the gasket in the radiator cap is bad or you have a small leak in your radiator or your car is getting hot those are the most common problems you can look for because it can be a lot more problems that can be add to this list but those here are the most common problems so look for one of this problem
Posted on Apr 06, 2009
SOURCE: Battery on BMW 740i keeps dieing
you need to disconnect one side of the battery, put one lead from an ampmeter on the battery post you have disconnected and the other ampmeter lead on the cable you took off the battery. with nothing turned on on the car , all doors closed the reading on the ampmeter should be no higher than 0.17 amp, if it reads a lot hgher go to the fusebox and remove one by one all the permanent supply fuses looking at the reading every time until you find the circuit that is causing the high reading, this will be the drain. alot of the time it can be central locking system playing up, boot light, glove box light not switching off, stereo wired wrong. hope this helps.
Posted on Apr 30, 2009
i have to admit without more detail it's hard to say.... my educated guess would be that one of the hoses to the transmission cooler has blow and needs to be replaced. do NOT drive the car till that is done.
Posted on Jun 27, 2009
oh dear, this is going to be very bad new for you,take it from me the ATM fluid is leaking out of your gearbox, it could be a rear gearbox oil seal, it could be the front gear box oil seal leaking, even the oil cooler or pipes leaking but it is leaking some were, and if its got to be took out to put in a new seal your going to need to sell a kidney or some outher part of you to pay for it, if you can put up with the leak just keep filling up your ATF fluid dont let the gearbox run dry or its realy going to cost you, as it will seize up on you and burn its self out, thats a new gear box then??? costly very costly! if its only a little bit of oil leaking give the motor a good wash down with a power hose under it and fill the atf up go for a drive say 10 miles then look under it, look for fresh oil (ie:red oil) around the gearbox at both ends of it, if you see any that is proof its leaking bad!!! park it over a sheet of paper over night will show how much it leaks too, i would put up with it as long as pos bet if its due for an MOT give it a realy good power wash down first to get rid of any oil, a little leak will still pass, a big un, wont! any oil seal can just fail on you like this one has but they fail much faster if they get over heated due to lack of oil in them
sorry for the bad news, think of selling the kids to pay for a new gearbox,, now there's an idear?
Posted on Oct 22, 2009
SOURCE: Intermittent check engine light
best thing to do is have it scaned at a garage or dealer, theres a problem maybe a sensor. when they scan it they will be able to tell you what the problem is and how bad the problem is. good luck, also auto zone parts store scans for free.
Posted on Nov 29, 2009
Tips for a great answer:
Jun 15, 2017 | 2003 Mitsubishi Galant
Dec 19, 2011 | 1994 Oldsmobile Cutlass Ciera
Nov 01, 2011 | 2005 Chevrolet Malibu
Nov 26, 2010 | 2004 Chevrolet Suburban
Jul 28, 2010 | 2004 Ford Escape
Oct 17, 2009 | 2001 Hyundai Sonata
Aug 31, 2009 | 1991 Ford Aerostar Extended
Jun 11, 2009 | 2000 Ford Ranger SuperCab
Dec 13, 2008 | 2000 Volvo S70
Jul 04, 2014 | 2001 BMW Z3
Jun 24, 2014 | 2001 BMW Z3
978 people viewed this question
Usually answered in minutes!