My 94 Saturn temperature goes to the hot zone 15 mins after start
Originally the used car had the fan wire hooked up to the fuse box, I didn't know why at the time but after getting the A/C serviced when I'd turn the car off the fan and car would continue running, the mechanic changed the temperature sensor and while at the repair shop they ran the car to see if the check engine light would come on, it didn't but as I drove the car home I turned on the a/c and the car's meter went toward the hot zone and the engine light came on, the weather has been nice so I don't have to run the a/c but the car still runs toward the hot zone very quickly after start up, could the temperature sensor be faulty? Please help!!!!!
a 6ya Mechanic can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
Best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repair professionals here in the US. click here to Talk to a Mechanic (only for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need. Goodluck!
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
Hello: Check the radiator cooling fan. With engine running and A/C on open hood look down on the back-side of the grill, that's where the cooling fan is. It should be running, if not check the fuses, cooling fan relays/module if they are ok then you may have a cooling fan motor failure. You can use jumper cables to hot wire the fan motor to see if it runs.
You should have a check engine light on if your coolant temperature sensor is bad. It could be your fan relay. It's position should be located on your fuse box cover(s). To check the fan itself, unplug it and notice that the black (or darkest) wire is the ground, so you can hook your jumper wire to any metal part of the car. The other wire goes to the positive terminal of a car battery. Good luck.
CHECK COOLING FAN FUSE AND RELAY.IF BOTH GOOD SCAN CAR TO CHECK COOLANT TEMPERATURE SENSOR FAULT CODE.THE PCM AND COOLANT TEMP. SENSOR IS WHAT CAUSE FAN TO RUN AT CERTAIN TEMPERATURE.IF ALL IS GOOD.HOT WIRE COOLING FAN USING JUMPER WIRES TO BATTERY.IF FAN DONT RUN REPLACE FAN MOTOR.IF FAN RUNS YOU HAVE SHORT OR BROKE WIRE IN THE COOLING FAN ELECTRICAL CONNECTOR.
Do not let this car over heat a blown head gasket will ensue. Locate and replace the fan relay, if that doesn't fix the problem unplug fan and use jumper wires to ground the plug then feed power to the positive side of plug to check fan, if that doesn't work replace the coolant temperature sensor located somewhere near the intake manifold or thermostat housing area.
94 Metros have a 'hidden' fuse in the power lead to the radiator's fan. There's a good chance it's blown. Look under the dashboard near the fusebox, but behind it (toward the firewall) in a completely separate fuse receptacle (not connected to the main fusebox). It should have a whitish color and a small plastic snap-on cap. Under the cap is a standard 30AMP fuse.
If that fuse isn't blown, then it might be the temperature sensor. You can test that by bridging the two wires that go to the sensor; if the fan comes on, the sensor is bad -MAKE ABSOLUTELY SURE YOU HAVE THE RIGHT SENSOR FIRST!!!!
Lastly, if all else fails, it might be the fan solenoid which is a little black box located under the hood near the main fuse block. You'll need a wiring diagram or a little know-how to test it.
there are actually 3 temp sensors. 1 is on the top of the engine that goes to temp gauge in dash has 1 wire. next to it is a 3 wire sensor for engine control and choke. on the bottom of the radiator next to the hose is a 2 wire sensor. loosen all 3 but leave connected. get engine hot past halfway point on dash gauge. with ac off disconnect 1 sensor at time. start with 2 wire under radiator. it takes the most abuse. fan will come on when you disconnect broken sensor. 2sensor must agree for fan to stay on till engine cools when turned off. note this is solution i used after verifying fuses, fuseable links and relays worked.WOO HOO! make sure you check both the fuse box under hood and fuse boxleft side of steering wheel my ECU fuse was inside my bros was outside.ECU B on my car goes to nothing and is under hood. Had it confused with ECU on wiring diagram.DOH!