Can't Remove the Subwoofer from the factory Enclosure.
The Subwoofer is attached from behind the speaker. We removed the panel and the "normal" hex-drive screws from the front, but there appears to be some sort of "shock" mounting in the back of the speaker, because we cannot pry it out more than a half inch on a given side, and then it pulls back in. Has anyone removed a Ford Explorer Sport Subwoofer, or do you have a viable solution? I've heard other years are tied to the back seat, which sounds typical of Ford. No sense to the madness, but I'm sure its to dampen vibrations and prevent consumer "tampering." Please help.
a 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
the service is completely free and covers almost anything you can think of (from cars to computers, handyman, and even drones).
click here to download the app (for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need. goodluck!
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
Should be a standard 8" sub, located in the passenger rear side. Remove the plastic interior body panel, the sub will be located behind. Remove the 6-or-so screws holding it in, disconnect the wires, making note of which wire connected to which terminal. Connect the wires to the new subwoofer, replace screws in new sub. Test the audio system to make sure everything is working properly, and re-install the plastic interior cover panel.
If equipped with an accessory switch panel, carefully pry the switch panel up and away from the door panel. Tag and disconnect the switches from the panel.
On 1981-86 models, remove armrest attaching screws.
On 1987-96 models, remove the retainer screws secure the pocket in the molded armrest on the door panel.
If equipped with crank type windows, remove window crank handle with the appropriate clip removal tool.
If equipped with manual remote mirrors, remove the control knob bezel.
Remove inside door handle cover attaching screw and trim plate.
If equipped with door mounted speakers, remove the speaker, and disconnect the speaker wires. For speaker removal and installation steps, refer to .
Remove all external screws securing the door panel. Insert an appropriate prytool between the door panel and door frame to remove the hidden clips securing the panel.
Holding door panel vertical lift straight up to release the upper clip.
Inspect all retaining clips and replace any broken or missing pieces.
Position the door to the door and carefully press on the retainer clips to engage. If a clip will not engage, inspect the mounting hole behind the panel to make sure the clip is properly aligned. Install any panel-to-door retainer screws.
If equipped with crank windows, attach the washer and crank to the window regulator stud.
On 1981-86 models, attach the armrest to the door using the retainer screws.
On 1987-96 models, insert the armrest pocket and secure in place with retainer screws.
If equipped with door panel mounted speakers, attach the speaker wires to the speaker and secure the assembly to the door panel.
If equipped with remote cable mirrors, attach the control knob to the door panel with the retainer bezel.
If equipped with an ashtray, insert the holder assembly, and secure in place with retainer screws. Install the ashtray to the holder assembly.
Position the door handle trim panel around the door handle assembly, and secure in place with the retainer screw.
If equipped with accessory switch panel, attach the harnesses to the switches, and press the accessory plate into the door panel.
Connect the negative battery cable.
Check and make sure all panel components function correctly.
Good day, In your trunk there are 2 small amps. The first amp is connected to your car speakers. The second amp is connected to your subwoofer. Once you locate the subwoofer amp. Your subwoofer amp will be the amp close to the sub enclosure. Unplug the subwoofer from the amp. Your next step is to unscrew the 4 10mm bolts so that you can remove the sub enclosure. At this point you can now remove the enclosure. It will take a some time as it always seems to be up there pretty good. But once it starts to move it should come out with little work. I hope this helps with your removal of the subwoofer.
While the rear subwoofer does fail, it is often misdiagnosed because of a rattle in the vicinity.
Try removing the little fold away hooks near the subwoofer (philips screws) and see if your problem goes away. If it is still there, loosen the panel and see if it goes away. If it does not, more than likely the speaker has in fact failed.
Most subwoofer buzzes have been either the little fold away hook or the wire harness just behind the subwoofer. Actual speaker failures are much more rare.
Section 15-03: Speakers
1997 Villager Workshop Manual
DESCRIPTION AND OPERATION
All vehicle sound systems are equipped with radio speakers (18808) located at all four corners of the vehicle. The radio speakers are mounted in the RH front door (20124) and LH front door (20125), as well as behind the quarter trim panels (31012) in the rear of the vehicle. The Ford Super Sound Audio System has the addition of a subwoofer mounted in the RH quarter trim panel.
Radio Speakers, Front Door
Remove the front door trim panel (23942). Refer to Section 01-05 .
Trim Panel(s), Door
Disconnect the battery ground cable (14301) if equipped with power locks or power windows.
CAUTION: Use care when removing the front door inside handle escutcheon (22620). Failure to do so can result in damage to the component.
Carefully pry off the front door inside handle escutcheon by inserting a standard 1/4 inch screwdriver between the top rear portion of the front door inside handle escutcheon and the front door trim panel (23942).
Remove the three cover caps and front door trim panel screws.
Remove the one front door trim panel capped screw from the door pull handle.
If equipped with power windows, remove the door pull handle. Disconnect the electrical connectors.
Slide a flat-bladed tool behind each of the retainers and twist the tool to disengage the front door trim panel from the front door (20124).
Remove the front door trim panel.
Door Electrical Connections Removal and Installation
Refer to Section 01-11 for Power Window, Section 01-09 for Power Mirror, or Section 01-14B for Power Locks.
Remove the Front Door Trim Panel . Refer to the removal procedure in this section.
Remove the front door watershield by carefully detaching it from the adhesive.
You need to fold the drivers side seat forward. You have a compartment on the drivers side that is identical to the passengers side storage box and works the same way. The top of the panel on the drivers side is hinged like the passengers side. Pull up on the leading edge and it will open revealing the sub enclosure. Remove the speaker grill mounted in the carpet by carefully working a screwdriver under each of the corners and popping it loose, Once this is done you will have access to the 4 X 10mm bolts that hold the face of the unit. By pulling back the carpet a little you will reveal 2 more bolts at ether end of the enclosure. remove these and begin working the enclosure out carefully. It's a tight fit so take your time and work from the left side first. Once the left side is up high enough to reach the wires, unplug them from the side and finish removing the box. You can now make a choice. You can have your old speaker fixed "seach speaker repair" for $20-$40... or you can replace it with a new one. www.twosrus.com can help you find a non-toyota replacement if you wish for reasonable money.
they are held in place by small philips head screws......in addition the drivers side kick panel has a 3 bolt enclosure that holds the hood release latch to the kick panel and left footwell, this must be removed as well.....now the fun part....you must lift UP and OUT at the same time to release the lower lip of the kick panel which is tightly wedged.....finesse is required! by the way that a 5 1/4 speaker, but the footwell will also hold some 6 inch speakers as well....I have alpines in mine (89 cab)..put some Dynamat in while your down there!