When putting the key in the Ignition. Key will not turn at all, stays in OFF position. Anti theft light flashed, next day it doesn't flash. Steering wheel will not lock into LOCKED position. Gear shifter won't move out of Park unless shift linkage dis-engaged from under the hood. We did this so as to put it on the tow truck. Checked the fuses.
Have done the tapping the ignition cyclinder trick to loosen the insides, have done the remove all the keys from the keyring trick i've seen posted ( that seemed a little odd ) but tried it anyhow. The only thing on the keyring is the alarm button.
By the way - the key works both in the doors and trunk manually fine.
Any other ideas before the locksmith drills the ignition tumbler out ??
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Now and then the gear shifter does not push up all the way to the park position locking up the ignition switch. Try moving the gear shifter up as far as you can to the park position and see if the key's will turn. Your ignition switch is a pass lock system ($$$$) and you don't want to be drilling that out unless you are will to replace it before you try to get the key's to work again. Keep me posted and let me know if that helped, if not i can give you the instructions to removing the ignition cylinder.
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If the antitheft light is on and the car won't start,turn the key to on position and wait for the antitheft light to flash or go out (can take up to 20 mins)then try and start the vehicle.This is the key relearn procedure when the ignition switch does not read/see the key chip correctly.
As for the lights being on many GM products do that right after the key is off but if you open the driver's door they should go off. Not sure if that model is part of the ignition switch recall or not. Due to numerous ignition switch problems I would have the ignition switch replaced. The key cylinder IS NOT the switch. The key lock cylinder operates a rod that in turn moved the ignition switch to various positions. Battery must be disconnected and care taken not to deploy the airbag while the switch is replaced. I think I would go with a after market brand such as Delphi rather than another AC Delco factory switch.
The engine shutting off after starting may also be the ignition switch not moving to the RUN position properly. Before doing anything else I'd replace the ignition switch then go from there if the two problems are not cleared up.
remove your radio, there will be 2 bolts to undo, switch will slide into dash, unplug harness turn key to remove cable, if ignition wont turn you may have to take ignition apart to remove cable. reinstall in reverse procedure. will need to relearn new key to be able to start. try to start, leave key in run position, theft/security light will be blinking. leave on for 15 min or light stops blinking, turn off turn back to run without trying to start. leave on for another 15 min. turn off then start
It sounds like it may be the fuel pump. Have someone turn the ignition key to the 'On' position (don't start car) and listen to hear if you have a whining coming from your fuel tank. If not, your pump is bad. If that's not the culprit, then check your gas. You may have had a bad fill up. Try adding some octane boost to your gas and changing your fuel filter.
Put the key in the ignition, turn to the on position. Open the driver's door and remove the key (keep door open). Put the key in and out 4 times (in/ out only without any turning of the key) with the key out at the end. Hit drivers side unlock button 5 times. Wait at least ten seconds and shut the driver's door. Away you go.
It will stay like this unless you remove the cars battery - if so you will have to do that sequence again. Works for most if not all toyotas
BFC that body function controller. BFC batt fuse controls .the body function controller .its part of the PCM.the BFC controls anti theft system. your interior lights -drl lights- radio -door locks.if your check engine light is on take it to dealership.because your BFC and PCM works together. your car could shut off. that unsafe.when you on a busy highway.you have electrical problem.not a home fix.
Try turning the ignition key on to the run position but do not start it leave it this way for aprox 10 minutes. The security light should do something after this amount of time. For example if it is flashing it will go off or stay on some cars are different then others. What this is doing is relearning the key resistance. If it does not work the first time try it again.It sometimes takes several tries.
I was shopping for a winter beater and found a 99 Alero. The dealer and I had a "B" of a time getting the key to turn. You had to push it in, pull it out a micron, cross your eyes, stick out your tounge and turn it to get it to work. 181000 + miles of wear on the ignition key had it worn down pretty good. The dealer remade the key with the key code from the manufacturer (NOT just recut from the old key) and it turned like a charm. He also said something about the old key having to be in it, removed and then the new key inserted withing 3 seconds, so the "chip" (which is in the ignition switch) can memorize the new key. (?) Sounds hokey but he got it to work. My understanding is that without the key in the on position you can't move the shifter. Good luck.