My 1994 Ford Escort has been running fine for the past few months, with one minor repair to the cam shaft rod. I was at a stop light once and the car began sputtering roughly. I took my foot off the brake and inched forward, and everything was fine. A few days later, I rolled up to a stop light and my car did the same thing, only this time it died. Electrical was still working and the lights remained on.
I shifted the engine back to park, tried starting the car, and it started right up again. I hit one stop light on my way home, and the car was fine. It also has problems with low acceleration, which I assumed could just be the age of the car.
I had the same problem a year ago. I problem was that the intake manifold gasket had a small hole and it was causing the computer to constantly change the air to fuel ratio. The constant changing cause the engine to die at stops.
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
The Ford Escort ZX2, the 2.0 liter is a interference engine,The valve and the piston kissed each other as they met with a broken timing belt,Just to let you know a cam position sensor does not create rough idle, it can stall the engine at a stop sign,but the solution is a valve job, and who ever put the timing belt on after the job should have done a cylinder effeciency test.
have you over rod the automatics inhibitor switch (the switch that stops you from starting the car in gear with the auto) if not you will find there is a plug that used to go to the t bat you will need to find out witch wire was for the lock out and earth it out then the car should start
The best place is the library, check out a chiltons/moter or haynes repair manual. Any of these will have all the info you need for the job.
A couple of things you should know about the older escorts, in many
cases the timing belt breaks becouse the water pump siezed.
Make sure to check it while your in there.Another bad thing that can happen when the belt breaks. Your cam shaft and crank shaft are spinning out of sync. This can couse bent valves and other nasty things, to happen. This happens most often when the belt breaks at
high rpm. Hope this helps Good luck
You need a special tool that slides over the inner tie rod after removing the outer ones.make sure you count the turns to remove the outer tie rods so the alignment will be close. You will need to have it aligned after the repair.
I can walk you through it, be sure it is your outer tie rod that is bad the inner tie rods go bad also. It's actually quite simple to replace. Jack up and secure car with safety stands, remove your tire. Remove cotter pin and the nut holding in onto your steering knuckle, Loosen lock nut on the inner tie rod shaft. Either rent or buy you a tie rod removal tool they are cheap, but autozone and many other stores have a tool loner service that is free. Remove the tie rod from the knuckle and hold inner shaft and rotate the outer rod end till it comes off. When you go back with the new one measure across the front ties on the front and on the rear side about the same place. Screw the new tie rod on till the fron and the back of the tires measure the same distance, that is zero toe. Most fwd cars drive great right there. Be sure you tighten everything properly and reinstall the cotter pin If this helps please vote fixya!