GMC 2007 Yukon, Front power seat function only works when you are not sitting in it. Looking for suggestions on a fix. Dealer wants to replace entire module, any other solutions?

SOURCE: my 2006 gmc yukon xl drivers seat will not move

Under the drivers seat at the rear is a black plastic cover. Remove the cover , it is over the main harness to the seat. Unplug the seat harness and inspect the connection. I see alot of these get knocked loose or get corroded. Good Luck.

SOURCE: How to replace a 2007 Yukon side mirror (OEM# 25831236)

On the inside trim, you can remove screws that are by the door handle, arm rest, under door and side of door and then gently pull back on the panel as there will also be retaining clips attached and you don't want to break them. You'll need to lift the door panel upwards in order to get it off the window ledge. Then you'll need to manipulate the panel and disconnect the door handle linkage from the door handle and disconnect the wiring for your controls. Then you can access the bolts that secure the mirror onto the door

SOURCE: Replace headlamps 2007 GMC Yukon

It should be pretty easy, thats why there no "directions" Lift up the hood, now at the headlights there should be 2 rods, lift these rods and the lights should lift out, to access the bulbs.

SOURCE: Heated seats won't stay on in 2004 GMC Yukon Denali

See GM TSB 05-08-143-001, If you have Adjustable pedals, especially if they don't work with the memeory buttons, but function with thier own buttons. Its the Brake Pedal Position Sensor is shorted and mesing up the seat module which controls the heaters too. My 05 Suburban had the same issue

SOURCE: gmc yukon windshield washer pump replacement

These instructions are for the regular size Yukon, but hopefullly will apply to your XL. Despite what you may read elsewhere it is virtually impossible to access the pumps and fittings without releasing and lowering the reservoir. Release the four plastic retainers at the forward side of the left front inner fender, working in the wheel well. Note that two of these fasten to the reservoir. Then remove the battery [I have read elsewhere that you should remove the negative first then wait a minute before removing the positive, something to do with air bags ??]. Remove the 6 cap screws that hold the battery pan in place, and a seventh that supports the reservoir from the top. Remove the pan. There are two more screws holding the resevoir, one near the filler cap and the other near the passenger side of the bottom - access this from below or from wheel well, pulling back the inner fender that you have freed earlier. The reservoir will now drop down so unless you have emptied it you should support it so as not to strain wires or hoses. Now you can access the wires and hose fittings to release them and then the pumps. The pumps are just a press fit into a rubber bushing that fits in to the hole in the reservoir. Be sure to get the new one properly aligned - if you look at the design you will see that a peg on the top fits in to a slot in the resevoir. Reverse the above to reassemble. Check the hoses carefully to be sure they are not cracked or damaged or you will be doing this all over later. The hoses pass through slots on the side of the reservoir that seem perfectly designed to put nicks in the side of them, especially if you have put strain on them, and this guarantees they will fail later. If you have to repair a hose you will find it easier to make a coupling from some 7/32 rubber hose than to try to replace the original .hard plastic hose. Good luck.