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The underhood connections can work by themselves...POS to POS, and NEG to NEG...sometimes dirty/weak connections do not allow the power to transfer fully from the underhood connections...if this is the case then you need to connect directly to the battery in trunk for full power charge...again POS to POS, and NEG to NEG...hope this helps
If the battery is good you will need to follow flow. Test light is the easiest to use. First hook light to ground and touch pos terminal,lights good next touch pos battery cable end, lights good. Next follow pos cable to starter pos terminal,lights good. Next hook test light to bat pos teminal,touch neg terminal,lights good. Then touch engine block, lights good ground. Next move test light clamp back to ground/neg side and touch alt pos terminal,lights good.if all that tests good, if all good move inside and check for power at ign switch pos term if at any time you dont find power you have wiring issue that needs to be addressed. Let me know what you find. Russ
If all you are doing is changing to a side post battery, just connect all the positive cables from the old pos post to the new pos holder and all the neg ones to the new neg holder. If you've already cut them all off and not sure where each wire goes, all the reds are positive, all the blacks are neg. To make sure use your continuity meter to test. Connect one meter lead to any good clean metal part on the car and test between each black wire in turn, the neg ones will show a circuit, the pos ones will not.
Bad connection on cable ends or where they connect to battery. Quick check is if you have a good set of jumper cables, use the jumper cable as a replacement for what maybe the defective one. Hook negative cable good to battery neg. post and then put other side on neg cable to engine ground on block. See if it cranks, if it does than the trouble is on the neg. cable. If not then put positive cable on pos. post of battery. Then put other side of pos. cable on the starter post, try to start. If it cranks then the trouble is on the pos side of cable. Hope this helps.
if you have access to a digital multimeter, connect the meter (set to volts) across positive and neg. terminal of the battery, should read roughly 12.6 volts, close to 10 volts, battery may be going out, also test the alt output, disconnect neg term and place negative lead to battery neg post and positive lead to neg battery cable (make sure meter is set to amps) should read near the rating, if both those, then you'd want to do a resistance test, (set meter to Ohms) disconnect battery and connect meter neg to either pos cable terminal or where the pos cable connects to the alt and connect positive lead to opposite of neg, should read next to 0, the check resistance of the ground by connecting meter between batt neg cable and body of alt.
YOU EITHER NEED AN AUTOMATIC HOOD SLAMMER, OR CLEAN THE BATTERY TERMINALS, REMOVE NEG. CABLE FIRST, THEN THE POS. CABLE CLEAN BOTH CABLES & BOTH BATTERY TERMINALS BRIGHT & SHINNY. PUT POS. ON BATTERY & TIGHTEN. LAST THING PUT NEG. CABLE ON & TIGHTEN. IF THE PROBLEM STILL EXISTS, HOLD THE IGNITION SWITCH IN START POSITION, HAVE SOMEONE TAP ON THE METAL PART OF THE STARTER WITH A MEDIUM SIZE HAMMER. IF THAT MAKES THE STARTER REACT, THE STARTER IS PROBABLY BAD.
dear friend-the voltage that you are measuring is battery voltage and as soon as you try to start the vehicle it will drop to 9 volt which is not enought to start.if you remove the pos,battery clamp and put a test light between the pole and the terminal and and the light lites up then there is a draw running the battery flat.
pink = (+) pos. for left front speaker violet = (-) neg for left front speaker light green = (+) pos. for right front speaker blue = (-) neg for right front speaker blue/yellow = (+) pos at all times (power) grey = (+) pos. only in the accessory or run position brown = (-) neg gound red = (+) pos. right rear speaker black = (+) pos. left rear speaker white = (-) neg right rear speaker yellow = (-) neg left rear speaker