I removed the passenger side rear brake line because i could not get the piston to release when i changed the rear brakes. All fluid drained out of caliper. I have since bled all of the brake lines starting passenger rear - drivers side rear - passenger front - drivers side front. i have performed this several times.
The brake pedal still goes the floor.
Do i need a vacumm or need to replace fluid in rear caliper via what appears to be a grease nipple. any suggestions would help
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Engine should be off and pump brake about 4 times to release pressure, then bleed,driver side rear,passenger side rear,passenger side front,then driver's side front,use a bleeder kit.If pressure won't hold and you have drum brakes,remove both rear hubs and check wheel cylinders for leakage.Check flexable fuel lines at wheels and it could be a bad brake master cylinder.
bleed the brakes so that there is no air
apply the foot brake and use the hand brake to adjust the thread to the back of the piston
the slots in the pistons are only to screw the piston back along the thread to get the new pads in
Place rags on the floor underneath the cylinder to catch any fluid.
Loosen the tube nuts connecting
the brake lines to the master cylinder using a flare nut wrench. Pull
the lines away and either plug their open ends with rubber or wrap
plastic bags around them to prevent contamination.
Remove the rear wheel anti-lock
(RWAL) module if the truck has this type of brake system. The module is
located near the cylinder; release its clip with a thin pointed tool and
remove it from its mounting bracket. You don't need to remove its
electrical connectors; just lay it somewhere safe.
Remove the two mounting nuts for
the master cylinder, then set aside the isolation/dump valve and the
bracket for the RWAL module. Make sure you don't bend or kink the
hydraulic lines as you disconnect these and remove the module. Remove
the reservoir cover and diaphragm from the cylinder and properly dispose
of any fluid remaining in the module.
Fill the master cylinder and its
reservoir with brake fluid and bench-bleed the cylinder. With the
cylinder balanced, hold your fingers over the brake line holes, press
the piston with a large Phillips screwdriver while removing your finger
from one hole, then place your finger back on the hole before releasing
the piston. Repeat this multiple times and cap the holes afterward.
Install the new cylinder on the
vehicle in reverse order of removal. Remove the caps on the holes and
the brake lines before connecting the lines to the cylinder.
Bleed the braking system. Attach
a clear tube to the bleeder valve on one brake caliper and open the
valve as another person presses down on the brake pedal to remove air.
Repeat this for all of the brakes and make sure the pedal feels firm and
not spongy afterward
that is how you contract the caliper on the Audi/VW rear brakes. I would check the brake fluid, I would also recheck the back brake lines as it is/was a bear to replace the rear brake pads. Hope this helped Tim
loosen of the hand-brake adjustment and press the brake pedal a few times to self adjust the rear brakes. Re-tighten the handbrake adj last. Front brake sounds like a seized caliper,If possible remove caliper and clean and lubricate the piston. This may work but replacement caliper may be the only other solution.Make sure the caliper slides are also clean and lubricated and the brake pads are in good order.(TRY THIS FIRST) Also new brake shoes can make the pedal feel spongy for a couple of hundred miles until they have been run in.
You can adjust the shoes outward on the rear by removing the wheels and drums, then above the axle but below the wheel cylinder you will see an arm that is horizontal, pushing both of the shoes outwards. There should be an adjustment nut that you can turn to extend the arm to push the shoes out.