2001 chevy impala 3.8 motor dies occasionaly while driving
SOURCE: replacing resister on blower motor
Chrysler Fan only works on high speed - low speeds don't work.
I had the same problem for a 2001 Chrysler Voyager van, and my Chrysler Sebring 1999. I fixed it with a 2 dollar part, in under 15 minutes. This problem happens to all of the Chrysler products at about 63,000 Miles or so. (depending on how often you use the fan/blower). . The settings on the fan motor would only work on High.The lower settings wouldn't work. Here is what I did, it may be in the same general location (as I'm told by the Chrysler guy). It worked for me on my van. Look behind the glove compartment. If you open the glove box, you have to squeeze the sides of the plastic glove compartment box together so that it 'drops down' totally, and you can actually see the blower compartment itself. The glove box will swing down and out of the way. Now, directly in front of you will be a 'resistor block' on the left hand side, and a connector wiring harness on the right hand side. You want the resistor block on the left. It has two wiring harness connected into it. You'll have to unclip the wire connector blocks from the resistor block. The resistor block itself has two screws holding it to the black plasticblower housing. You'll need a small screwdriver with a socket wrench attachment to get the two screws out. It just falls right out. Once you get the resistor block out of the housing, take a peek at it. It has a small metal housing on it that has holes in it it. You'll notice that you have 4 coiled wires inside this resistor block, (they look like small thick springs). You'll also notice a part inside that looks like a small silver tube, almost the size of a resistor if you are familier with electronic parts. It looks more like a small silver crayon to be exact. Ok. once you have this in your hands, you have two options. Option 1) is to get a new part for 24 dollars from the dealer, and just screw the entire new resistor block back into place and reconnect the wiring harnesses. Option 2) is to repair your old resistor block for $1.89 by purchasing the small thermal fuse that actually goes bad (inside the resistor block). Only attempt option 2 if you can use a soldering iron, and have some basic skills on soldering two wires together. It's dead simple, and odds are, if you are reading this, you have the skills to solder two wires together. First, locate the small thermal fuse that is inside the resistor block. It's about 1/4 of an inch long, and looks like a tiny 'silver' crayon. It's not a resistor, it's actually a thermal fuse. It's clamped in place at two ends. One end of this thermal fuse actually has a point on one end, and its VERY important to know (and notice) which end that 'point' was connected to - on which side of the connectors. The new fuse has to go into the block facing the same 'direction' that the old thermal fuse came out. In other words, when you go to Radio Shack and get a replacement part for under two dollars, you'll have to solder this new into place in the same 'direction' that the old one came out. So, be careful to 'mark', the way the old one came out. Okay,.. now it's pretty easy, you make note of the direction of the old part, then just snip the old fuse out with some wire cutters. You go to Radio Shack, and tell them you want a thermal fuse. Show them the old part. Be careful not to loose this small part, it's pretty tiny, so you may want to put it in a plastic bag so you don't loose it in one of your pockets like I did. The new part in Radio Shack will be this part number, 270-1322. It's a Thermal Fuse Rated at 264 Degrees Farenheit, /129 degrees Celcius - and the voltage is rated at 250VAC, at 10AMPS. If you compare the specs of the new part to the 'old' part, it's a bit different because the new onet is rated at one degree higher in heat tolarance, and it's rated at 10 amps (instead of the old fuse which was 15 amps).. This 'new' fuse from Radio shack will actually give you a bit more protection as to not blow out the blower motor. If you want to replace it with a 15 amp fuse, it's up to you... but I wanted to be safe and just up the temperature tolerance instead. I resoldered the new thermal fuse in place (facing the right direction within the resistor block), and resinstaled the resistor block back into where it came out before. Bingo, I now had all of the low settings and my high settings in my Chrysler Van - and Sebring. It's a simple fix for under 2 dollars, rather than spend 24 dollars for a new part from the dealer (that just replaced the same thermal fuse). I found out that all Chrysler products around the years 1999 and later are susceptible to the same breakdown when the lower fan speeds don't work. It could be the fan itself, but most times,.. it's this 2 dollar part that goes bad (the thermal fuse), If you want to do a small amount of work, you can save some big bucks and fix it yourself. Good Luck -- From Art L. Bensalem Pa.
SOURCE: 2001 chevy impala engine light on wont shift
You need to find out what code you have in the car. Autozone will scan it for free.
SOURCE: which fuse box has blower motor fuse on 2001 chev impala
There is a blower motor resistor located up under the passenger side dash. I believe there is actually 3 fuses that can cause problems with the blower....relays/fuses should be located in the engine compartment fuse block. They are High Blower fuse-HVAC fuse-Radio/HVAC/RFA/Cluster/etc...fuse. Hope this helps.
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SOURCE: 2001 chevy Impala. Heater blower fan vibrates
It's possible that a small animal, such as a mouse has made a nest in the fan of the blower motor, especially of the car sits for long periods of time. It happened to my 2002 Impala.
It's still a pretty big job, but there are two ways to go. The motor is down under the dash by the passenger's toes. It can be removed an inspected.
The other way is to remove the black plastic cover on the passenger side, between the windshield and the engine compartment. I recall that there's a couple screw, pull the weatherstripping from the firewall, and unclip the washer hose. You can look stright down into the cage of the fan, but you probably can't reach down in there; too tight. I used a claw/gripper thing to reach in there.
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