Renault 1.5 dci engine timing belt broke do i need a new engine

SOURCE: renault clio 1-5 dci (2002)

Hi there!

It's very likely a valve stem seal that has split. This will allow oil into the cylinder from the crank gallery.

Off with it's head! I'm afraid.

The only other thing it can be is overfueling - but then it will be sputtering and lagging on acceleration.
You can check which cylinder is affected by removing the plugs and looking for the oily one. They will all need replacing really as it's false economy to do just 1. The seals are cheap. I would get a new cambelt fitted at the same time - as it has to come off anyway.

(If this leads to a solution, please take the time to rate as Fixya! - Thank you)

SOURCE: my timing belt broke

When A timing belt breaks, the best way to see if the engine is still good is to retime the motor, put a new timing belt on without the covers or anything else in the way or replaced, (that way you can see the belt and timing marks moving) and do a compression test one each cylinder. you're not looking for compression to be at specs, you just need to have a compression reading on each cylinder. if you have compression in each one, finish the job up and it should work. if you have no compression in one or more cylinders, chances are you have a bent valve. that involves pulling the heads off and having them gone through.

hint: To reset the timing on the engine move each gear just a little at a time swtiching between them each time. If you start to feel any binding that feels like you're hitting a piston, you probably are. it's normal to feel some tesion from the springs, bout you can still turn the gear with a little effort. it's tricky to describe the difference, but once you feel the spring pressure, you'll know what the feel of a valve on a piston feels like. if this happens, just move the crank a little bit and then go back to the cams. take your time and you'll be able to get the motor re-timed.

SOURCE: renault laguna sports tourer 1.9 dci wont start

Try the relays under the bonnet fuse box 4 small black ones in a line, the first 2 from top cut of the fuel pump, and are a renowned cause of 85% of cranking without starting faults on the dci engine swap them over for the bottom 2 .
If it starts, buy 2 from Renault and fit
if the engine still fails to start the egr valve may be stuck closed starving the engine of air, its on the top of the engine at the air intake and has 3 bolts, remove it and clean it with carb cleaner then check its condition, if it appears ok, replace the cleaned one, if not you need a new one or the turbo will blow its seals and the engine will rev and burn on the engines own oil.
beyond this and your diy fixes are at an end without a obd2 code reader.

SOURCE: 2004 Renault Trafic 1,9 dci gearbox problem. I

had exactly the same problem with mine, its in my mates garage as we speak. he had to take the engine out open the gear box and check the bearings. All the bearings were worn !!!! had to buy a wole bearing kit, £170 . plus labour, lot cheaper than getting it reconditioned by specialists!!! they wanted £1000 for doing exactly what my mate has done for me. Hope this helps you!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

SOURCE: CAMBELT FAILURE ON A RENAULT MASTER DCI 120 2004

Definitely. If you're lucky then only the valves are damaged and that can be repaired by removing and overhauling the cylinder head. The water pump will and cambelt tensioners will also need to be replaced as they're relatively cheap and if they fail after repair the cambelt must be removed again. If you're unlucky then the piston crowns have been damaged or even the cylinder liners and this requires a complete engine rebuild. If only the valves are affected then the engine can usually be successfully repaired at a reasonable cost, but it's vital to get the head checked for cracks and flatness before reassembly as the stress on the combustion chambers and valve guides caused by a belt failure can warp or crack the head.

If time is money for you, then it may be cheaper to fit a good used engine. Note that there are no cheap "reconditioned" engines regardless of whatever worthless guarantees are offered. If you go for a reconditioned unit then if you're in the UK make sure that the engine supplier is a member of the Federation of Engine Remanufacturers (FER). Don't just rely on the logo on signs and stationery, actively check with the FER as some dodgy outfits have no qualms about claiming to ber members when they're not.

A good used engine will cost around £160 or so, make sure that you can hear the engine running before it's removed from the scrapped donor vehicle. It's cheap, but a risky choice and you'll need to add the cost of an immediate precautionary cambelt and water pump change.

A "reconditioned" engine means nothing. It might only have been degreased, repainted and had an oil and filter change. Recon is often a con.

A remanufactured engine will have been cleaned and then carefully tested before being largely or even completely dismantled. It's then rebuilt to precise tolerances using new or remanufactured parts. Expect to pay around half to two thirds of the cost of a brand new engine; they're not cheap but they are far cheaper than a new engine and will be supplied with a really worthwhile time/distance warranty.

I hope that you get your van fixed soon and that the damage isn't too serious. If my reply has helped then please return the favour by rating my answer.