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Re: I have no break lights on my 66 tbird. There is
Those cars had the sesquential (sp?) brake lights/turn lights during those years. There is a box in the truck somewhere that needs to be by passed or replaced. I can remember such a problem on my mother's car way back in the day(years ago) It was under warranty so I don't know what they did.
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I would first check the brake light switch itself.
Using a simple test light see if there's any power in/ power out at the switch. It should be located on, or near the brake master cylinder. To test power out may require an assistant to push on the pedal if you can't rig up the test light to be visible from driver seat.
Also, if you have "power in" you could simply jumper the connection AFTER unplugging the socket from the switch.
This way you are taking the switch out of the equation to see if the circuit is good to the tail/brake lights themselves.
if there are 2 switches on the pedal one is a cruise interrupt switch the other is the brake switch. check for current coming from the brake switch. it usually twists out and you can probe the the wires on the back side of the switch. if there is current there then start working your way out the harness. also check the master plug at the back under the bed is there current there to the tail lights? if not then there may be a break in the line from the brake switch to there
Did you adjust the brake light switch correctly? To adjust the brake light switch, first press the brake pedal down a few inches, then pull the switch plunger rod out of the switch toward the brake pedal arm, as far as you can without using excessive force. Next, return the brake pedal to the pedal stop positionagainst the pedal stop and pull the brake pedal toward the rear to push the brake light switch actuating plunger rod into the switch housing limited by the travel of the brake pedal arm rear travel stop position. This procedure automatically adjusts the brake light switch correctly.
If the brake lights still don't turn off with the brake pedal released, check the brake pedal arm for sticking or binding that is preventing the brake pedal arm from returning fully to the pedal stop when the brake is released.
2 different parts to check. First, find the switch that is touching the arm that holds your brake pedal. This is your brake switch. Pull the connector off the switch. If the brake lights go out, the switch is the problem. Make sure it is adjusted so that the pedal pushes in the switch when you let off the brake. If it does, then the switch is not closing properly and should be replaced. If the pedal arm is not pushing the button in on the switch, try to adjust it so that it does, or get some help adjusting it.
Now, if your switch is OK, but the brake lights are still on, find the brake light relay in the engine compartment fusebox. Pull out the relay and see if the light go out. If yes, the relay is stuck closed or shorted. Replace the relay. Any questions, please let us know.
follow the light my son..stay away from the switches and relays...your solution lies in the powers/grounds at the chassis /bulb areas...the grounded power to the front bulb is causing brakes to go on..(they are ground actuated )....so you are closer than ever to solving this ..go back to each location making sure that they are clean , grounding to chassis and getting power... the gremlin will go away when ALL are power/ground happy
I had the same issue. It turned out that the break pedal switch was broken. The engine start push button is connected to a second break pedal switch that senses when you push it. That switch is independent from your main break pedal switch that turns on the brake lights of the car.