Question about 1996 Lincoln Town Car

1 Answer

Can not get to the two inside bolts on a starter

Very small clearances for extensions

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  • mingle_david Jul 02, 2009

    I cannot get to the upper and lower rear bolts closest to the engine.

  • mingle_david Jul 02, 2009

    Above description does not help.

  • mingle_david Jul 02, 2009

    What you told me is what is in the Lincoln Repair manual.This did not tell me how to get to the hidden bolts.

  • gerry bissi May 11, 2010

    Starter Motor Removal WARNING: WHEN SERVICING STARTER MOTOR (11002) OR PERFORMING ANY MAINTENANCE IN THE AREA OF THE STARTER MOTOR, NOTE THE HEAVY GAUGE INPUT LEAD CONNECTED TO THE STARTER SOLENOID (11390) IS HOT AT ALL TIMES. MAKE SURE THE PROTECTIVE CAP IS INSTALLED OVER THE TERMINAL AND IS REPLACED AFTER SERVICE. Disconnect the battery ground cable (14301). Refer to Section 14-01 . Raise the vehicle on a hoist. Refer to Section 00-02 . Disconnect starter cables from starter solenoid. Remove upper and middle bolt. Remove lower bolt and starter motor. Installation Position starter motor to engine and install middle and lower bolts finger-tight. Tighten the upper bolt to 20-27 Nm (15-20 lb-ft). Tighten the lower and middle bolts to 20-27 Nm (15-20 lb-ft). Connect starter solenoid connector. Be careful to push straight on and make sure connector locks in position with a notable click or detent. Install S terminal cable eyelet with washer and nut. Tighten to 4.5-6.5 Nm (40-57 lb-in). Install starter cable nut to starter solenoid B-terminal. Tighten to 9-14 Nm (80-124 lb-in). Replace red starter solenoid safety cap. Lower vehicle to floor. Connect battery ground cable.

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Use a very, very long extension and come through from in front of the motor mount to access these starter bolts

Posted on Oct 11, 2009

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Apr 14, 2017 | Cars & Trucks

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Remove starter on a 1995 aerostar van


Inspect/Test/Service/Replace
  • If your testing indicates that the starter must be removed, the first step is to disconnect the negative cable at the battery.
  • It may be necessary to place the vehicle on a lift to gain access to the starter. Before lifting the vehicle, disconnect all wires, fasteners, and so on that can be reached from under the hood.
  • Disconnect the wires leading to the solenoid terminals.
  • To avoid confusion when reinstalling the starter, it is wise to mark the wires so they can be reinstalled on their correct terminals.
  • On some vehicles you may need to disconnect the exhaust system to be able to remove the starter.
  • Loosen the starter mounting bolts and remove all but one.
  • Support the starter while removing the remaining bolt.
  • Then pull the starter out and away from the flywheel.
  • Once the starter is free, remove the last bolt and the starter.
  • Once the starter is out, inspect the starter drive pinion gear and the flywheel ring gear.
f17-26.gif Starter drive and flywheel ring gear wear patterns. Courtesy of Ford Motor Company.
  • When the teeth of the starter drive are abnormally worn, make sure you inspect the entire circumference of the flywheel.
  • If the starter drive or the flywheel ring gear show signs of wear or damage, they must be replaced.
  • Reverse the procedure to install the starter.
  • Make sure all electrical connections are tight.
  • If you are installing a new or remanufactured starter, sand away the paint at the mounting point before installing it. Also, make sure you have a good hold on the starter while installing it.
  • Many General Motors' starters use shims between the starter and the mounting pad.
f17-27.gif Shimming the starter to obtain proper pinion-to-ring gear clearance. Courtesy of General Motors Corporation - Service Operation.
  • To check this clearance, install the starter and insert a flat blade screwdriver into the access slot on the side of the drive housing. Pry the drive pinion gear into the engaged position.
  • Use a wire feeler gauge or a piece of 0.020-inch (0.5080-mm) diameter wire to check the clearance between the gears.
f17-28.gif Checking the clearance between the pinion gear and the ring gear.
  • If the clearance between the two gears is incorrect, shims will need to be added or subtracted to bring the clearance within specs.
  • If the clearance is excessive, the starter will produce a high-pitched whine while it is cranking the engine.
  • If the clearance is too small, the starter will make a high-pitched whine after the engine starts and the ignition switch is returned to the RUN position.
  • Every starter should be bench tested after it is removed and before it is installed. to conduct a free speed or load test on a starter, see the free speed test.

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1 Answer

Installing the starter


Inspect/Test/Service/Replace
  • If your testing indicates that the starter must be removed, the first step is to disconnect the negative cable at the battery.
  • It may be necessary to place the vehicle on a lift to gain access to the starter. Before lifting the vehicle, disconnect all wires, fasteners, and so on that can be reached from under the hood.
  • Disconnect the wires leading to the solenoid terminals.
  • To avoid confusion when reinstalling the starter, it is wise to mark the wires so they can be reinstalled on their correct terminals.
  • On some vehicles you may need to disconnect the exhaust system to be able to remove the starter.
  • Loosen the starter mounting bolts and remove all but one.
  • Support the starter while removing the remaining bolt.
  • Then pull the starter out and away from the flywheel.
  • Once the starter is free, remove the last bolt and the starter.
  • Once the starter is out, inspect the starter drive pinion gear and the flywheel ring gear.
f17-26.gif Starter drive and flywheel ring gear wear patterns. Courtesy of Ford Motor Company.
  • When the teeth of the starter drive are abnormally worn, make sure you inspect the entire circumference of the flywheel.
  • If the starter drive or the flywheel ring gear show signs of wear or damage, they must be replaced.
  • Reverse the procedure to install the starter.
  • Make sure all electrical connections are tight.
  • If you are installing a new or remanufactured starter, sand away the paint at the mounting point before installing it. Also, make sure you have a good hold on the starter while installing it.
  • Many General Motors' starters use shims between the starter and the mounting pad.
f17-27.gif Shimming the starter to obtain proper pinion-to-ring gear clearance. Courtesy of General Motors Corporation - Service Operation.
  • To check this clearance, install the starter and insert a flat blade screwdriver into the access slot on the side of the drive housing. Pry the drive pinion gear into the engaged position.
  • Use a wire feeler gauge or a piece of 0.020-inch (0.5080-mm) diameter wire to check the clearance between the gears.
f17-28.gif Checking the clearance between the pinion gear and the ring gear.
  • If the clearance between the two gears is incorrect, shims will need to be added or subtracted to bring the clearance within specs.
  • If the clearance is excessive, the starter will produce a high-pitched whine while it is cranking the engine.
  • If the clearance is too small, the starter will make a high-pitched whine after the engine starts and the ignition switch is returned to the RUN position.
  • Every starter should be bench tested after it is removed and before it is installed. to conduct a free speed or load test on a starter, see the free speed test

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Hello, I learned a trick from putting in a boat starter on a cabin cruiser. Not sure it will help you, but here it is. I used a rope around the starter to hold it up while I tried to start a guide bolt in. It took enough weight off the starter for me to get a bolt started.

Once I had 1 bolt started, it carried the weight and I could juggle the starter into position. On my boat, I used the exhaust manifold to tie off one end of the rope. You may have to back off a transmission bell housing bolt to do the same.

Or you may be able to wedge a piece of wood from the floor to under the starter to help with alignment and weight. You may need enough extensions to reach from the bolt on the starter to the front of the engine, about 36 inches.

Be sure to position your wheels to allow for clearance under the starter, as tierods can get in the way.

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How take the starter off


I had to remove one on a 4x4, if you have 2 wheel drive you have more room. Before you guess the starter is bad, there can be problems with the Main wiring to the starter. There are Corrosion issues on the wiring by the starter.

Some tips I can give you on this for removal. You may need to turn the steering to get clearance and room for wrenches. You need access through the passenger wheelwell with the tire off. You will need socket extensions long enough to reach from the Starter to the Radiator.

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1996 Nissan Sentra would not start...


I changed the starter in my 1996 Nissan Sentra, and I assume the 1997 Sentra is very similar to mine. It's a VERY nasty job. Basic steps are: 1) put car on lift or on ramps (so you can get underneath) 2) remove cable connections to battery 3) remove oil filter (yes, that's right. The filter needs to be removed to provide proper clearance for your hands, tools, and starter itself. Yuck!) 4) remove the bolt on the lower portion of the support strut for the intact manifold, so the support strut can be gently moved slightly to the side to provide clearance 5) remove the electrical connections to the starter 6) remove the 2 bolts holding the starter to the engine. One is accessible from below, and the other one (believe it or not) is accessible from the top. Installation of course is the reverse of the above. It's a genuine pain to change the starter. But, on the positive side, it beats having to pay the dealer or a mechanic.

There are a few tips/under line a few points, after just having done it. You need a long group of extensions. Just undo both battery cables to minimize risk. Undo where the negative battery cable attaches to the engine. There is a bolt next to this that you can undo too. Either this bolt or the battery cable bolt holds the starter. (you'll see on the starter housing one bolt hole is trhough, one is threaded.)
Remove the oil filter. Remove the plastic shroud near the right tire. Remove the strut (or at least the lowest bolt so you can turn it) that will make it impossible to get a socket or remove the starter itself. Unscrew the bolt for the power cable to the starter assembly before removing the starter. Now use your long, long extension to hold the ratcher near the right wheel and tunnel through that mess to get the underneath 14mm bolt. Wiggling out the starter assembly is like getting the oil filter out, a bit crowded.

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