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Hi Jcetkt, Make sure the park brake is fully engaged. Chock the wheels and prepare a long extension with the correct size socket spanner, (A box wrench set onto a long extension) Slide under the vehicle and loosen it from the bottom. It may be a good idea to have a pal guiding the wrench from top side. Regards John
THERE ARE 3 BOLTS THAT HOLD THE STARTER IN PLACE. THE STARTER IS LOCATED AT THE RIGHT REAR CORNER OF THE ENGINE UNDERNEATH, OR PASSENGER SIDE AS LOOKING FORWARD. ONE BOLT WILL BE AT THE SIX O'CLOCK POSITION, ONE AT THE 3 O'CLOCK, AND ONE AT THE 1 O'CLOCK POSITION. THE TWO A THE BOTTOM AND SIDE ARE EASY TO ACCESS. THE TOP ONE WILL REQUIRE AN EXTENSION, A RATCHET, A SWIVEL AND AN APPROPRIATE THIN WALL SOCKET TO BE ABLE TO GET IT ON THE HEAD OF THE BOLT. THERE IN MINIMAL CLEARANCE ON THE TOP BOLT POSITION.
on Chevy small blocks there only two bolt patterns one with off set holes and one with straight across bolt holes i ran across this same problem a while ago starter that was suppose to fit my motor according to part stores was the offset bolt pattern but motor actually had straight across bolt pattern i had to go back to i think like a 1969 motor to get straight across bolt pattern even but i know motor wasn't that old
if you have the correct bolt pattern make sure the starter not hitting on something (frame, headers, tranny lines etc.) if clearance is the issue you might need to go with a smaller starter (they work just as well but the starter motor it self is smaller in diameter) the smaller starter might not have as much power as the bigger one but shouldn't be a problem as long as your not running a extremely high compression motor
(the following is untested by my self but good friend that drag races says it true) My friend Drag race car uses a starter off a 4.3L Chevy vortex motor( 6 cyl motor found in blazers, S10 etc) And it turns over his High compression drag race small block and gives him the clearance he needs.
Hello, I learned a trick from putting in a boat starter on a cabin cruiser. Not sure it will help you, but here it is. I used a rope around the starter to hold it up while I tried to start a guide bolt in. It took enough weight off the starter for me to get a bolt started.
Once I had 1 bolt started, it carried the weight and I could juggle the starter into position. On my boat, I used the exhaust manifold to tie off one end of the rope. You may have to back off a transmission bell housing bolt to do the same.
Or you may be able to wedge a piece of wood from the floor to under the starter to help with alignment and weight. You may need enough extensions to reach from the bolt on the starter to the front of the engine, about 36 inches.
Be sure to position your wheels to allow for clearance under the starter, as tierods can get in the way.
if its a v-6 remove the RF tire,
remove the 4 10mm bolts on the inner fender shield and the clips that
secure the rubber shield. this will give you enough clearance to remove
the starter. remove the front splash shield and you can see the starter
on the passenger side of the engine. remove the small wire, remove the
large wire with a 12mm socket on a long enough extension to reach it
from the bottom of the veh. The rest is acedemic, a couple of bolts and a
little twisting of the starter it will come out right through the wheel
I had to remove one on a 4x4, if you have 2 wheel drive you have more room. Before you guess the starter is bad, there can be problems with the Main wiring to the starter. There are Corrosion issues on the wiring by the starter.
Some tips I can give you on this for removal. You may need to turn the steering to get clearance and room for wrenches. You need access through the passenger wheelwell with the tire off. You will need socket extensions long enough to reach from the Starter to the Radiator.
When reassembling you will need either a Magnetic retainer for the starter bolt or tape to keep the bolt in the socket. Also you can attach the wires to the Starter before bolting the starter in place. It will may it much easier.
I changed the starter in my 1996 Nissan Sentra, and I assume the 1997 Sentra is very similar to mine. It's a VERY nasty job. Basic steps are: 1) put car on lift or on ramps (so you can get underneath) 2) remove cable connections to battery 3) remove oil filter (yes, that's right. The filter needs to be removed to provide proper clearance for your hands, tools, and starter itself. Yuck!) 4) remove the bolt on the lower portion of the support strut for the intact manifold, so the support strut can be gently moved slightly to the side to provide clearance 5) remove the electrical connections to the starter 6) remove the 2 bolts holding the starter to the engine. One is accessible from below, and the other one (believe it or not) is accessible from the top.
Installation of course is the reverse of the above. It's a genuine pain to change the starter. But, on the positive side, it beats having to pay the dealer or a mechanic.
There are a few tips/under line a few points, after just having done it. You need a long group of extensions. Just undo both battery cables to minimize risk. Undo where the negative battery cable attaches to the engine. There is a bolt next to this that you can undo too. Either this bolt or the battery cable bolt holds the starter. (you'll see on the starter housing one bolt hole is trhough, one is threaded.) Remove the oil filter. Remove the plastic shroud near the right tire. Remove the strut (or at least the lowest bolt so you can turn it) that will make it impossible to get a socket or remove the starter itself. Unscrew the bolt for the power cable to the starter assembly before removing the starter. Now use your long, long extension to hold the ratcher near the right wheel and tunnel through that mess to get the underneath 14mm bolt. Wiggling out the starter assembly is like getting the oil filter out, a bit crowded.