Question about 2002 Kia Sportage
The problem occurred suddenly. Other than a very slight oil leak and trans in need of repair the car ran great. I have driving and in gear when this occurred. I didn't hear anything abnormal, and all gauges were normal. No jurking or vibration, it just immediately stalled, and won't start anymore.
Initially I started with the fuel system. Checked fuel pump (mfg date of 04/2006 and installed 08/2006) working. Checked lines and filter, all clean and flowing well. Checked relay and fuse, both good and working... I read one article from someone with this same issue saying that the relay was clicking like crazy and that bypassing the relay to force the pump on would verify a bad part. I tried that as well as replacing the relay with a new part, no solution found yet. I tried disconnecting the intake and spraying starter fluid and starting. This did not produce a single difference. The only thing with fuel delivery that I don't know how to do is check pressure, but I really don't think this is the issue.
Next items I checked (after reading other articles I found that this was unnecessary but I did it anyway), the Mass Airflow Sensor, Idle Air Sensor and Throttle Position Sensor. No problems. The Idle Air sensor makes a buzzing sound when the ignition is on and gets quite hot quickly so I replaced it but the new on does the same but not as loud or hot, so I don't know.
Then I pulled the intake to get to the plugs and coils, I was told that the coil should have .3 - .9 ohms on the primary and 14.5 - 20 ohms off the secondary. I was reading nothing off either side so I went to the parts store and had them test a brand new coil and they couldn't get any reading from theirs either. So I am not quite sure what you are supposed to do to get a proper reading, but the new and old ones test exactly the same so at this point assuming they are good since they were replaced a year ago anyway. I was able to test the resisters inside the secondary boot and they are for sure good at 5 ohms a piece. The spark plugs were changed for factory NGKs as well and all the wires have been replaced because they were not so great.
At this point I had found something saying the primary computer may be shot (I doubt it but), the only way I could test it at all was to take a multimeter and read varying voltages coming from the wiring that connects to the coils. When turning the ignition I get switching voltages from 9 to 11 DC volts. I don't know what they should be but at least there is something there. An interesting point to note at this time is the engine does exactly the same thing whether the coils are connected or not.
The only other things I have read point to timing belt and compression. So I am going to get a compression test done first because that is easier than getting to the timing belt. What are the correct pressure ratings? Does anyone know how to test the timing belt without taking it all apart?
If anyone has suggestions I would appreciate any feedback.
OK you've got a real mess.
take the upper bolts out of your timing cover and pry it back just enough to "peek" in at the timing belt
if it's frayed or just plain shredded you need to take a good look at it to determine how bad it is. if it broke you'll probably need an engine because this is an interferance engine. meaning if the belt breaks the valves won't clear the pistons and it will break or bend the valves leaving you with no compression. and without the cams moving the sensors have nothing to pick up
therefore no spark, no fuel, no compression,
Posted on Jul 12, 2009
Thats not true. You didnt even read what he said. Dumbo... Its a NON Interferance engine.
Posted on Jul 12, 2013
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
If the pump is running but not putting out any fuel the strainer in the tank could be clogged causing it not to pick up fuel. Also check the fuel pressure regulator and make sure it is working correctly.
Posted on Oct 06, 2009
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