Why did I loose all power to windows and locks in both doors?

There is no separate fuse for power windows:
https://www.2carpros.com/questions/nissan-altima-2006-nissan-altima-windows-and-locks

https://oards.com/causes-of-power-windows-not-working/

1) Locate and change the fuse.
2) Locate the door lock control and to see if any wiring is damaged or loose.

If the interior door handle doesn't open the door, then you have a push bar loose or bent inside the door. If once you unlock the door from the outside you can use the interior door handle to open the door, then you either have a bad lock unlock relay, or the door lock unlock actuator itself is bad.

I had the same problem, and had to change all the window switched in the doors as they all work together.

No power to the switch. The wiring harness on some models is threaded through the door at the hinges. Opening and shutting the door over time breaks one of the wires causing the switch to fail. Or the switch itself might have come loose from the plug. You can take the armrest apart and locate the switches. Also you can use a jumper wire to give power directly to the motor (power windows?).

Hi, that wire is disconnected when the door panel is removed to work on the window motor. Take the car back and ask them to reconnect your door locks. If you want to fix it yourself, you may be able to access the connector by removing only the control panel where the door lock switch is installed. Remove any visible screws and then pry gently to pull up the panel. Odds are, however, that the whole door panel will need to be pulled loose to find the cable. You can possibly just pull the bottom of the panel loose, but do it carefully. Feed the wire back up to the control panel and reconnect to the switch. Thanks for using Fixya.

On the driver side, the window/door lock module has the power lead either pulling away from the connection or has broke entirely. Another common cause is the wire harness between the door jam, this is the area that has a rubber boot covering the wires and from opening and closing the door, it creates a broken or loose connection over time. Open the driver side door, grab the rubber boot that the wires run thru, and move it around. Some times this will help create the connection and restore the power. If not, the door panel will need to be removed to inspect the wire connections.

If you have power windows and door locks, take a small flat-tip screw driver, and gently pry up the switches. Unplug them. If not power, The auto parts store have a window handle removal tool. Remove the handle. Then unscrew the door lock at the top right corner of the door. Unscrew the door handle. Screws are located under the handle. If you have the pull strap, remove the covers with a screw driver. covers are at both ends of the strap. The auto parts store also sells a door panel removal tool. put that between metal and plastic cover a gently pry. it will pop the clips loose. Take your time and be gentle. after popped loose. gently tap up from the bottom. this will get it to release the clip from the frame by the window. Hope this helps.

First roll the window down then take the inside mirror cover off (just pops off)next take the power window switch loose and disconnect.
The switch pops up and remove the retainers from the door panel and reinstall on to switch. pop out the ctsy lamp and unplug. Remove the trim insert behind the inside door handle (just pops out ) remove the lock knob (just pops out) there is 2 screws that nee to be removed at the front part of the door pull behind were the power window switch is and in a hole at the rear of the door pull. then lift the door panel up and disconnect door speaker and memory seat switch ,heated seat switch if equipped. These trucks are bad about the window regulators coming loose and ratteling.

The last post by maddog1321 was exactly what I had with my right rear door. The electric locks would not lock and unlock, and you almost couldn't do it manually without my feeling I was about to break something. I took the door panel off, oiled everything and got no relief. Finally, I saw the above post and drilled out the aft-most pop-rivet. THE WINDOW WORKED PERFECTLY! I didn't drill out the forward (closest to the handle) pop-rivet because I wanted to do one at a time so the solenoid would not fall out of place. I then put a new pop-rivet in place of the one I drilled out. I then reinstalled everything and the locks work like new.