Question about 2007 GMC Sierra 1500
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: the brake light on the
There is a level switch in the master cylinder if the fluid level is low it will turn on the light and If you pressure or vacuum bleed the brakes you will center the proporting valve switch that warns of low brake pressure in either Front or rear.
Vacuum bleeding I have found to work the best.
Make sure the Park brake lever is all the way released. If you find this informationn helpful please leave me a favorable rating and by all means contact me if I can be of any further help.
Posted on Aug 10, 2008
SOURCE: 1990 GMC Sierra 4x4 1500
the connections near the front axle that activate the motor to engage the system aren't melted? That's a comon problem for that body style. If there good, sounds like it could be that motor itself. To figure out if it's you motor or transfercase, jack up the rear end, have a friend inside shift into 4 wheel drive, or try to, and put it in gear and apply some gas. If the front driveshaft is turning then it's something with the front end. If not, farther back in the system.
Posted on Sep 22, 2008
Not hard to Replace. you will have to take the Caliper off of the Rotor and then Take the Rotor off, Repack the Bearings! And it is Right There!
Posted on Jan 18, 2009
By "sticking" I am assuming that you mean that the brakes are staying applied (calipers are not releasing)and burning the brake pads and rotors up.
The most common cause of this is brake hoses.
The hoses that connect your calipers to the steel brake lines have an inner lining and a reinforced outer "shell". sometimes the inner lining tears loose from the outer shell inside the hose. (It cannot be seen by "looking" at the hose.) The inner lining then starts to act similar to a "heart valve" where it allows fluid to be pushed down into the caliper, then collapses inside the hose, blocking the fluid from returning to the master cylinder when the pedal is released. This can happen just because of the age of the hose, but is more commonly caused by someone allowing the caliper to hang by the hose while replacing the brake pads without using anything to support the weight of the caliper.
To diagnose this condition, raise and support the vehicle and remove the wheels. Make sure that the transmission is in "Park" (Automatic Transmission) or "Neutral" (Manual Transmission) and apply the parking brake. Then start the engine and apply the service brake. (Press HARD on the pedal) Shut the engine off, release the service brake and open the bleeder screws on the calipers. If brake fluid squirts out of the bleeder screw under pressure, then the hoses are the cause of the calipers not releasing.
Posted on Oct 17, 2009
Testimonial: "I don't think I would have ever considered the brake lines. I've never seen one go bad. Your help is greatly appreciated!"
The ignition timing is not adjusted with a timing light or with the engine running, and to set the ignition timing follow these proceedures.
There is a mark or notch on the distributor housing that the rotor should be pointing to when the engine is on top dead center. This "static" timing is all that matters and the computer will be able to control the timing as long as the ignition rotor is in that position when the engine is at top dead center.
1. Place the engine at top dead center.
2. Look under the distributor cap and find where the number one terminal runs under the distributor cap, and where that position on the distributor cap corresponds with the distributor housing, and it should match up to a mark or a notch on the distributor housing indicating the number one position.
3. With the engine on top dead center the ignition rotor should be pointing to the number one mark or notch that is on the distributor housing, if it is not then loosen up the distributor and turn the distributor until the ignition rotor is pointing to the mark or notch on the distributor housing and then tighten down the distributor, the engine should now be static timed.
If the distributor can not be turned enough to align the ignition rotor with the number one mark on the distributor housing, or the distributor does not set properly and will not allow the installation of the spark plug wires then the distributor is not installed correctly and is most likely a tooth off and it will need to be re-installed correctly. (The distributor should set like it is shown in the firing order diagram when it is properly installed)
Here is a firing order diagram to also help assist you.
Posted on Jul 06, 2010
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