First, you need to locate it. It will be in the liquid line usually around the dryer/accumulator. Once you've located it, you can use a orifice valve removal tool or you can use compressed air to blow the valve out by following the line the valve is in to it's next connection. Using a clean shop rag/towel place it loosely over the end where the orifice valve is located at, and using compressed air blow into the opposite end and the valve will blow out.
Just to let you know, any time you open the system you must evacuate/pull a vacuum on the system to remove any moisture. Usually if the orifice valve fails it's due to contaminants stopping/restricting the flow through the valve. Once you remove your old valve inspect it carefully, if it has a lot of contaminants on it, you'll need to replace your a/c compressor & dryer/accumulator as well and before installing ANY new parts, you'll need to flush the system to remove all contaminants or you'll be wasting your time & money.
If your not trained in this field, I wouldn't recommend you doing this yourself! You'll need the correct tools & experience to do this job correctly. These tools are not cheap nor is the parts! Hope this helps.
4 hours to evacuate the system? I've never done 1 longer than 30-45 minutes. Of course I have a 2 stage pump but still, this is not for the inexperienced! You must make sure you add the correct oil & amount as well as freon/R134A. Certain jobs should ONLY be performed by someone with the expertise/knowledge in how to do it correctly! JMHO
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First thing is to use a recovery station to remove the Freon. Then you open the system connections at the receiver dryer and look into the outbound connection for the orifice tub. You might need to use a pick or needle nose pliers to remove it. When it is out, you need to remove the compressor from the circuit and flush the whole system with a recommended solvent. Drain the oil from the compressor by sitting it so that the connections allow it to drain. Catch the fluid from the flushing and the compressor to check for debris. If you see any you can re-flush the system again. If you see rust you have to replace everything. When you are done, put the orifice tube back, put in a NEW receiver dryer. Connect the compressor back to one side, put new oil back in the system according to the specs. connect the other side, pump the system down and wait for 4 hours with the vacuum pump running. Then charge the system. Now you know why it is so expensive.
SOURCE: location of orifice tube in 2004 ford taurus
orfice should be located on the accumulator, where the large line connects.
SOURCE: Where, exactly, is the orifice tube located on my truck?
the orfice tube is locate in the line between condenser and evaporator. near the spring lock coupling. you must unbolt the cruise servo and overflow bottle, reposition them out of way and you will see the line connection..the orfice is inside line near that uniion. the ac system must be evacuated prior to removal, and recharged afterwards..
SOURCE: Where is the Orifice Tube found on 1996 GMC JIMMY
its under the hood on the right side next to the firewall try these websites fix &troubleshoot heating & A/C www..automedia.com car A/C repair www.directgardening.com and try this website to see if they have information on your car if they do you be able to get pictures and diagrams www.autozone.com and www.alldatadiy.com
SOURCE: I HAVE A 1996 FORD EXPLORER,MY AIR CONDITIONER
try replacing the compressor cycling switch in the low side at the accumulator
SOURCE: How do I change the orifice tube on a 1998 Ford
THE SMALLER LINE GOES TO THE EVAPORATOR, i HAVE CHECKED WITH MY FRIEND AT FORD ON THIS PROBLEM AND HE SAID U HAVE TO REPLACE THE SMALLER AC LINE (HI PRESSURE LINE, THE ORIFICE TUBE IS PART OF THE HIGH PRESSURE LINE, HERE IS THE PART NUMBER FROM A SITE CALLED ROCKAUTO.COM
MOTORCRAFT Part # YF2227 {#F6ZH19N651AD, F6ZZ19835A}
factory installed AC High pressure refridgerant line.
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