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Re: rear breaks on 2007 caliber
Just curious, why would anyone try to fix brakes, a MAJOR safety item ,when they cant even jack the car up?? as a licenced mechanic i will gladly stand infront of my brake job...as for those that think they can ..call me so i'll know to stay home.... 1 in four vehiceles you pass every minute of the day has some kind of brake issue
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Heres what you will need to do this type of job. First you will need a rachet and metric sockets with an extention if available. Also you will need somthing to press the caliber piston back into place a special tool or some kind of press would work . A plastic auto hammer to knock the rotors loose, somtimes they can be difficult to remove. Pliers would be needed as well as a screw driver to help mount the caliber or pads back into place. One thing to keep in mind is that if you indeed are replacing the rear rotors, it is recommended to get new pads as well. This is for the reason that old pads will cause break sqealing since they are not surfaced perfectly straight for the new rotor. Step one will be to get the caliber of the vehicle so if there is a medal clip on one of the studs just use the pliers to rip it off. Then use the rachet to remove two bolts holding the caliber. After you remove those bolts, there should be another two bolts holding the caliber bracket as well, do the same procedure in removing those. IMPORTANT do not let the caliber hang by the brake cable, put it on a stand or in a location where it is not free fall hanging. Now you should just have the rotor left, try pulling on it to see if it breaks loose, if not then use your plastic hammer to bang in the back of the rotor and knock it loose that way. If I remember correclty those rear rotors will have brake shoes underneath. Do not wory about those they are there for your emergency brakes. Now put the new rotor on and make sure it is securley installed on the wheel hub. Install you'r bracket first, then begine to install your caliber back into place. NOTE the caliber may not install to easy onto the rotor for the reason that you will need to compress the piston inside with either the special tool or some type of press. If you compress it and you hear brake fluid dripping down, it is nothing to worry about, its just the fluid being pushed back by pressure. Install the caliber and pads the same way as removal paying close attention to the other side if your not sure of how the originally were installed. When all this is finished look up brake bleading on YOUTUBE.com to accurately bleed your brakes and remove any air inside that may cause spongy or moister inside your brake lines.
To remove the front disc brakes , you must remove the break caliber assembly . Keep in mind that on some brake calipers a special Torx Drive T40 or T45 must be used to remove the caliber bolts from the spindle assembly . Also , Allen (Hex) bolts are sometimes used . Be sure you have the right tools .
1. Properly block both rear wheels at the front in the back of each wheel.
2. Loosen the lug nuts on both front wheels one turn on each nut.
3.Jack up and support the front of the car on Jack stands with the wheels one to 2in. off the ground.
4. Remove the two bolts on the inside of the caliber the secure it to the spindle .
5.Once the bolts have been removed the caliber should pull straight away from the rotor and spindle assembly .
6.Remove your old brake pads , clean the assembly , properly lubricate the moving parts as necessary , especially the floating sleeve as the assembly is called a floating caliber which means half of the Caliper is bolted to the spindle (inner) but the other half floats (outer).
7.Use a large see clamp centered between the caliper piston and caliper housing to push the piston all the way back into the caliber cylinder by turing (1 turn at a time) the screw until the piston is flush with the caliber face .
8. Install your new brake pads .
9. use the reverse procedure to assemble everything back together. Good luck and be safe....
Look inside the rear hatch area near the very rear of the vehicle. You should find a removable panel near the brake light housing. After you carefully remove the panel, look for some plastic wingnuts that hold the light housing in, and remove them, you should not need any tools to do this. After the nuts are removed you should be able to gently remove the tail light assembly from the rear of the car. Becareful not to damage the wiring. Now look at the back side of the tail lamp assembly and look for a locking tab on the light socket. Depress the locking tab and twist the light socket about a quarter turn, then pull the light socket away from the light housing. Pull the bulb out and replace it. Then reassemble and your done.
To remove the caliper, you need a torx head tool (can't remember exact size) to remove the two slide pin bolts.(inside the two small rubber boots at each end of caliper) After getting them loose, remove the brake hose, then remove bolts and caliper. (don't loose the two copper washers...if they aren't in the new caliper box you will need them.) Check and see if the caliper retracts easily after it is removed. If it does, the rubber brake hose may have internally failed and is your problem. If piston is very hard to move, get a new caliper. Replace both side brake pads, not just side you are workingon. (recommend both calipers as well but most times it works fine with one. When replacing, make sure slides are free in calipers and thread pins by hand so that you don't cross thread them. After it's back together bleed front brakes and before moving car step on brake to re-set pistons.
according to the service manual there are two bolts hold the caliber to tthe adapter plate and the caliper should roll up and out. the only problem i could imagine is if the pads are hanging in the adapter
before attemping to rise vehicle check for air bag shut off air bag.there are lift point on the pinch wells where you can rise your vehicle. no special tools needed if break pads have sensors you must reset indicator light.
They're telling you the truth, if they inspected your brakes and didn't find anything wrong, it is normal. I've seen this before...it's annoying, but normal--nature of the beast, brakes=friction=noise. Make sure you get a copy of the service invoice from your dealership that denotes that you brought it in and they inspected the brakes and didn't find anything wrong...it may be beneficial for you to keep these records. The warranty on your brakes is 12 months/12,000 miles -- NOT 36/36 like the rest of your factory warranty.