79 F150 won't turn over. new battery, new solenoid switch. Lights, radio, and wipers all work. Switched the two small wires on solenoid because I thought I might have had them wrong. Engine started up as soon as I turned key to on position. Turned it of after about 15 seconds because starter did not disengage and kept turning with the engine. At least that is what it sounded like. I knew this wasn't right so checked manual and switched wires back to original position. Still will not turn over. Not even a click. Lights, radio and everything else still work.
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Battery good, cables good, all connections clean and tight, no corrosion on battery terminals? Try to determine if click is from solenoid on the starter or starter relay. Turn the headlights on and watch them while someone turns the key to start. If they get dim, probably the starter-have it tested-even new ones are sometimes bad. If lights don't dim, you will need to check the start circuit. Check for power on the small wire to starter solenoid when key is held in start. If no power there, work back towards the ignition switch. Check the neutral safety switch-should have power in and power out when key held in crank. The ignition switch will have a start wire out of the switch going to the neutral safety switch. It should have power with key in start, the only time the start wire will have power. Post back with what you find-good luck.
Something is wrong in your start circuit. From battery to ignition switch, and ending at the starter solenoid. You would have to start checking for where power is lost between the switch and the starter. If you have power to the starter solenoid on the small wire at the starter (can check with a test light while someone holds the key in start), then the starter would need testing.
Even though all your other electrical bits are working it could be that your battery doesn't have enough juice to crank the engine. It doesn't take much power to run the radio, lights, etc, but cranking the engine requires the battery to have a very strong charge. If your battery is more than 5 years old, that's very likely the issue. I'd start there. Also, be sure to check the battery terminals and ground for corrosion and clean if necessary. If replacing the battery doesn't solve the problem it could be the starter solenoid or a loose electrical connection somewhere.
Voltage drop? I'm guessing you don't have a voltmeter, so turn on the headlights and observe them as someone tries to start the truck. If the lights go out, bad connection at battery, starter, or ground. If the lights get dim, probably the starter-it's drawing power, just not working. If the lights don't change, check for power going to the starter solenoid on the small wire on the starter; voltmeter or test light, check if the small wire to the solenoid has power when key is held in start position-in crank position. There should be battery voltage there when the key is turned to crank. If so, the starter or solenoid is bad. If no power there to solenoid, power is lost somewhere between ignition switch and the starter wire.
Could be the neutral safety switch or the starter solenoid. You could try cranking it in neutral, or check the small wire on the starter solenoid for voltage when the key switch is in the start position.
The humming would be the fuel pump coming on. It should only hum for a few seconds, then shut off.
Your problem is with the start circuit from the battery to the starter, or from the ignition switch to the starter solenoid. Check the connections at the starter (the big cable) for tightness. Is the battery charged up enough to turn the engine over? Check by turning headlights on and observe while someone turns key to crank. If they dim a LOT, then either battery is too low, or the starter is bad and needs removing for testing. If brightness doesn't change, then the circuit from ignition switch to starter solenoid is likely not working. Check for 12 volts at the small wire to starter solenoid with key in cranking position. If you have power there, the solenoid may be bad. Remove starter for testing. If no power at solenoid in starting position, then either the ignition switch is bad or the neutral safety switch might be the problem, or the wiring from the switch to the starter solenoid is not passing current. Good luck.
if you use a test light and check for voltage on the big wire at the starter this will tell you that the wiring from the battery to the starter is good.now check the small wire at the starter while someone tries to start the car you should have power to that wire.if you do then the wiring from the ignition switch to the starter terminal and everything in between is good.the problem is the starter solenoid or the starter.its a good idea to replace the starter as a new solenoid comes with it as apposed to changing only the solenoid and the starter goes bad shortly after.if you don`t have power to the terminal then check the neutral safety switch.
Because you are showing current to the solenoid does not mean that you have sufficient power to cause it to work or to turn the starter. The fact that it does not click tends to suggest that the battery is not charged enough to start the car, even if lights or radio or that sort of thing works. If you want to test the circuit, you can run a fairly heavy INSULATED wire between your pos. battery post and the SMALL terminal on the solenoid (just touch the end to the solenoid). If the starter turns, you may have a ignition switch, neutral start switch, or some other wiring problem. I would bet on a dead battery cell, or simply not enough charge.
Autozone or one of the same sort would be glad to check the battery and to see if it will take a charge (or, of course, sell you a new one).
NOTE: if you remove the battery and you have an anti-theft radio the radio will lose its five-digit code setting (should have been given to you along with a manual if you bought the car new). There is no way to guess what the code is, and it is different for different cars.
You will have to check, at the starter, for power to the SMALL wire on the starter solenoid (which is on the starter) when turning the ignition switch to start. If there is power to this wire ( usually purple ) and power at the LARGE cable ( from the battery ) at the starter end.....you need a starter.
If you do not have power at the small wire at the solenoid with the key in start position and battery power is OK.....check the safety neutral switch.Moving the shifter around a little can sometimes allow the car to start if the neutral switch is worn.
A new battery does not always mean a fully charged battery. Try a boost from another car before testing the starter for power.
The battery cables need to be clean and tight....and check the ground to the engine as well.
Everything else may work OK with bad connections,they don't use the power the starter needs to turn the engine over.