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Re: I don't have a anti-theft lug wrench for my znx rims
Your going to have to buy four 9 point socket and a 5 pound sledge hammer, a breaker bar, a pipe, and 4 new lug nuts. If you lost the key to your anti theft lug nut you can take it to a professional tire repair shop and they can remove the lug nut's for you and hope they have a key that will work. If not there have a tool that can take the lug nut off, with a cost. If your going to try it your self, place the 9 point socket slightly smaller on the lug nut and hammer it on. Be careful not to hurt your self or the car. Once the socket is seized on the lug nut, use the breaker bar and the pipe as an extension for leverage to take the lug nut off. Once off discard the lug nut and socket and do the other three the same way. Good luck and hope this helps.
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If they are Factory Wheels Dealer should get you a key Socket. If they are After Market Wheels then depending on the exterior shape and size of the special Lug nut get a LUG NUT REMOVER SOCKET SET from a Auto part Store. Since you will have to use a Impact wrench best will be to go to a Professional Tire and Rim Installer and they usually have all kinds of Lug nut remover sockets.
Send me a clear picture and diameter of the lug nut to suggest further solutions.
There are tools designed specifically for this problem which you can probably buy at Sears or any parts store, or you can do what we usually end up doing, and that is taking a 12 point socket that'll fit snugly on the nut and hammering it on. You may have to drive it on the nut really hard, and this may ruin the socket so try to find one you don't mind losing. Then back the nut off.
Not necessary to remove axles. Remove drum or rotor, hammer through the damaged stud, has room to fall out behind axle flange. Insert new stud through opening, A stud installer is preferred at this point, however, you can also use a couple of stacked washers and a lug nut. grease the washers, place them over the stud, grease the stud threads and then thread on the lug nut. With a socket wrench ,crank the stud down. The splines on the stud will bite in , keep turning until stud base meets axle flange. A new lug nut may be required , the one you use as an install tool may get damaged.
You need a jack to lift the vehicle high enough to get the tire off and the new one on, you need a lug wrench to loosen and tighten the lug nuts and depending on the rims you might have hub caps that are part of the rim or seperate and if they are seperate, you need something to pry them off with. So the proper way to do this is:
Before you raise it with the jack, take the lug wrench and loosen the lug nuts a little. This is easier when the tire is on the ground because depending on the tire location, it will turn if you lift it. So when the weight is on it, it wont turn. Then you put the jach under the car and near the tire you are lifting and you use the jack to raise the tire. Then finish taking the lug nuts off. Remove the tire and put the new tire on. You may have to raise the jack some more to make it high enough. Put the lug nuts back on tight as you can and lower the car. Then tighten the lug nuts again to be sure. You should tighten lug nuts by skipping them. In other words start with one and tighten it, skip the next one and tighten the third one. When you go all the way around, go to the ones you skipped and tighten those.
DO YOU HAVE LOCK NUTS? WHEN YU CHANGED YOUR TIRE DID YOU USE A TORCWRENCH? IF NOT YOUR OVER TIGHTENED AND NOW THEY DUG INTO THE RIM. RIM ALLOY OR STEEL? IF STEEL GET A TORCH AND WARM IT UP, IF ALLOY, NO TORCH UNLESS VERY MINOR HEAT..GET A LONG PIPE, FIT IN ON THE TIRE IRON FOR MORE LEVERAGE AND (REMEMBER LEFTY LOSEY RIGHTY TIGHTY).. AND STEP UP ON IT.. IT WILL COME OFF. ALL ELSE FAILS GET A BIG DRILL OR ROTATING SANDER/GRINDER AND SAY BYE BYE BY DRILLING THE NUT OFF AND SANDING DOWN ONE SIDE UNTIL YOU JUST TOUCH THE LUG THREAD.. AND GET A NEW LUG NUT, AND A TORQUE WRENCH FOR NEXT TIME, 9 FT/LBS SHOULD DO IT, IF YOU USED YOUR HANDS LAST TIME, IT IS EASY TO PUT 120-180FT/LBS INTO IT, BUT YOUR RIM MAY CRACK IF TO HARD.. GOOD LUCK
The wheels develop their own type of anti-theft protection over time.....it's called corrosion. The aluminum rims sort of bond to the rotor over time and have to be coaxed off. You will have to remove all the lug nuts and then start kicking the wheel, alternating with kicks to the top and bottom. The wheel will eventually come loose. I've seen this happen on many Jeeps, especially in the salt-belt, harsh weather areas. Kick away.
35mm or 1 3/8" axle socket 3/4 or 19mm socket for lug nuts or lug wrench 15mm socket for brake caliper and bracket 13mm socket for wheel bearing bolts (extentions as well) Breaker bar or impact wrench to remove lug nuts and axle nut (Note: Do not use impact driver to install axle nut). Torque wrench for axle nut Hub puller - Optional Hammer
1. Jack the appropriate side of the car up. Make sure the rear wheels are blocked and/or set the parking brake. Use a jackstand to support vehicle at subframe for safety. 2. Remove wheel. 3. Remove brake caliper and bracket. 4. Remove rotor. 5. Using 35mm axle socket, remove axle nut, turn counterclockwise. You will either need an impact or a long breaker bar. They are installed with a lot of torque or may be rusted out or corrroded. 6. Push the axle back as far as possible. It won't come all the way out or through the hub, but will become loose. You can either get a tool that will push it out like a hub puller, or just use a hammer making sure not to hit the axle shaft threads and damage them. Put the axle nut back on the axle shaft so it is flush with the top. Then place 35mm axle nut socket on the axle nut and tap on the 35mm socket with the hammer not the threads on the axle shaft spline. 7. Disconnect the wheel sensor connector and then remove hub side connector from the bracket (unclip). 8. Take a 13mm socket with extensions as needed and remove the 3 bolts on the backside of the bearing around the axle. Be sure to use PBBlaster to help loosen the bolts. 9. The hub/bearing should come loose without need needing a hub puller. Be sure to note the sheet metal spacer between the hub and spindle with also has the bracket for the wheel sensor connector. 10. Double check both parts (hubs) to make sure they match. 11. Lube the axle shaft splines with good quality bearing grease before installing the hub. Clean off any old grease and crud first. 12. Install the hub assembly with the wires from the bearing at the bottom. Line up hub splines with axle shaft splines and push in on hub. Note: Don't forget that sheet metal plate between the spindle and wheel bearing. Note: Make sure the wheel sensor wires don't get pinched by the axle shaft. 13. Install the 3 13mm bolts to 96ft lbs. Service manual recommends replacing with new ones. Some hubs like AC Delco will come with new bolts which have threadlocker. 14. Install the axle nut. As tightened down it will pull the driveshaft the rest of the way in. Torque axle nut to GM specs of 159 ft-lbs or the figure specified by the hub manufacturer. It is recommended to use a new axle nut but not necessary. 15. Install the rotor, brackets and caliper. Torque caliper bracket bolts to 137 ft-lb and caliper pin bolts to 63 ft-lb. 16. Install the connector to the sheet metal bracket and reconnect both connectors. 17. Install the wheel. Torque lug nuts in a star pattern at 100 ft-lbs each. 18. Road test car and ensure any ABS and TRAC OFF light are off.